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89 suzuki dt 200 carb problem

bug_man

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"this is a 88/89 DT 200 SS tot

"this is a 88/89 DT 200 SS total rebuild 3 years ago. its been sitting until know. (whole boat rehab)in the drive way with muffs on runs good at idle,up the rpms spits. under load, (in lake)idle`s, put it in gear it dies.(SIDE NOTE
running fuel at 50/to 1 with oil injection (double oil for break in, it Wont start unless air screws are turned out from seat 3 to 4 turns. is this to rich?, i dont want to damage my new motor. Im going to rebuild the carbs, and fuel pump i think they may have sat to long, any other suggestions????"
 
"Your on the right track. Thos

"Your on the right track. Those are not air screws though, they are fuel. Two turns out after lightly seating them. Float height is 10 to 11mm. TPS setting with throttle fully closed is 230-250 ohms for non microlink. 250-275 ohms for microlink ignition. Red meter lead to green/red black/black. Chk to make sure you have about 9500-10,000 ohms on the other side red to yellow/brown and blk/blk. Can't remember if it's yellow brown or brown yellow? Open and close the throttle several times your looking for a average every time you open and close. The high side is fixed and will not change with throttle movement. Don't forget re-synch the carbs after you put them back on."
 
"thanks for the info.I have tw

"thanks for the info.I have two books, clymers,seloc. a little help but how do you sinc the carbs,I am rebuilding another set of carbs off a blown motor, they are soaking now! kits on the way, can i just snap the linkage off the motor and on to the next set"
 
No you must re-synch. look in

No you must re-synch. look in your book if not I'll explain it. Synch screws are located on the right side of carb (starboard). They have to be installed first. Make sure all your jetting is the same.
 
"well got my carb kits and pum

"well got my carb kits and pump kit today from brownspoint. I will start tonight, and try to get on lake sat
superpole727 my books dont cover the syncing of carbs, and I cant find it on the forums. can you give me an idea of how its done or anyone?"
 
Must not be a OEM manual.
Mo


Must not be a OEM manual.
Mount up your carbs and make sure the bottom carb is fully closed. Push your linkage into place. Put a dab of grease on each of the ball joints first. Stbd side of the two top carbs you will see two phillips screws on each carb. Loosen all four screws and make sure all the throttle plates are completely closed. Tighten up screws.
 
"ok rebuilt carbs, cleaned fue

"ok rebuilt carbs, cleaned fuel system, runs great with muffs on driveway, drop in lake under load wont run rough idle
WHAT AM I MISSING HERE"
 
Chk the compression. Normally

Chk the compression. Normally when I hear that complaint it's weak primary compression before the piston. Did you set the tpi correctly??
 
"ok
checked and rechecked tps


"ok
checked and rechecked tps. setting is know correct.(not sure about before)compression is fine new power head, and have had compression check done again very recently. reset fuel screws ( seat back out 2 turns)will drop in lake again in the morn. thanks for all the help SUPERPOLE727 if this dont work might make it a boat anchor. LOL"
 
"Mercury's make better anc

"Mercury's make better anchors. He
biggrin.gif
He. It could be the rings just haven't seated yet. Be paitent young grass hopper. Let me know what happens in the morning."
 
"started it in the drive way i

"started it in the drive way idle was fine would not rev without spitting. the boat ramps where slamed on sunday, so i will try this afternoon after dentist, to do some ajusting under load,
SIDE NOTE ON testing TPS:
when testing the ohm`s is it supposed to fall in power, upon rotation in the direction of.accellelration
(while bench testing rotated to idle setting full ohm`s, turn to accellarate loss of ohm`s)"
 
Are you refering to the Tps on

Are you refering to the Tps on the bottom carb lower left hand side located behind the oil tank. Or the timing control switch. The tps ohms should increase with throttle opening. Either it is bad or you don't have it set it up right. Dose it have a green protective sleeve covering the wires.
 
"bottom left behind oil tank.

"bottom left behind oil tank. 3 screws ajustible
with a small gear on it,one plug three wires, rotate gear clockwise till stopping point full ohm reading. start turning counter clock wise loss of ohm`s at start allthe to none. i am going to go ahead and order a new one, regap plugs and start over at the basics. STARTING TO PULL MY HAIR OUT"
 
Thats the one it has three lit

Thats the one it has three little timing marks on the gears you got them lined up. They do go bad.
 
"John
I have an 89 DT 200 tha


"John
I have an 89 DT 200 that sat up for 10 years. When I put it back into service a year ago, carbs were cleaned and my engine idled fine and ran fine for about 10 gallons, then would cough and bog and die when throttled up in gear. Cleaned the carbs again and it repeated the above. Drove me nuts - I was buying filters and Stabil, cleaned my tank several times nothing helped. My mechanic advised that engine was starved for fuel when it bogged and I should push the key in (injects extra fuel) when in neutral and hold the key in as I put into gear and throttle up to plane the hull. The engine will rev past the low speed carb circuit and get into the midrange circuit. (Release the key after engine gets past the bog zone typically 800-1500 range.) I ran mine for several trips using the "push to choke" to get past the bog zone. Now that my DT 200 is propped correctly and I am running it 4500-5000 I'm not having the bogging issue. Prolonged idling will contribute to the idle and low speed circuits clogging again. My 200 has the oil pump disabled - I'm running 50 to 1 and any extra oil in the mix seems to encourage the bog problem. high RPM is the solution."
 
You should also disassemble th

You should also disassemble the primer solenoid fuel assembly and clean it. My 200 was hell to start at first then I cleaned this system. Makes sense - its got old fuel varnish in it.
 
"no update as of yet. waiting

"no update as of yet. waiting on tps (throttle position sensor)pump and solenoid where are rebuilt same time as carbs all fiters cleaned, I have feeling i am getting false negitive`s off the old tps couple more days and we shall see.
this is why i named her (NEVER GIVE UP)"
 
"BONNER
my problem is not ge


"BONNER
my problem is not getting past the bog zone. its getting to the bog zone. dies when engaged into drive. there is a little history i left out in my other notes, i had a electric surge (stator overload)thus had to replace all elec. on motor, this (tps) was not replaced.it gives good reading, but on other post i have read it read good replaced and know runs great.
it acts like the rear butterflies are not opening,
and this controls them. will keep you updated
thanks all for all the help"
 
"John,
When the low speed car


"John,
When the low speed carb circuit is really clogged my 200 used to die when put into gear also. I use 2 hands, right hand on the key to push to choke, left hand on the throttle to slide into gear. start pushing the key while in neutral and hold key in as you shift into forward and hold in as you accellerate. You may also need to raise your idle rpm to 1000; 800 rpm is about normal, but with your issue extra rpms may help keep it running."
 
"I've got familiar with my

"I've got familiar with my carbs and have the Suzuki manual and even bought a used set of carbs (as I have taken the original carbs off six plus times). I was going to have the pilot jets drilled out to hopefully solve my issues, but started using the engine and found that running it hard cleared up the low speed issues. (and maybe cleaned the tiny passages). My 200 is propped to turn 5600 but I rarely run it that hard for any distance."
 
"::::UPDATE::::
it know runs


"::::UPDATE::::
it know runs right, need to do a few adjustments.
and take it out this weekend and get the motor seated in.

Robert thanks for all your help and support it kept me sane,and away from a mercury LOL

it was the tps it was giving bad / false readings. NOTE: they come pre set with a pin in them, after install dont forget to remove (like i did)the throttle wont move"
 
"Cool! The pin is to help you

"Cool! The pin is to help you time it properly. If you really want to dial it in, get the ohm meter out and set it up like we talked about at the begining of the post. Glad to hear you got it dialed in. I was worried you made it a anchor.

standin by"
 
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