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Chokecarb adjustment problem 99 82b evinrude

T

tcarpe1

Member
"I took my motor to a mechanic

"I took my motor to a mechanic to get it water ready, and it seemed that it was while i was there. Brought it home and started it a couple of times and things seemed fine. Took it to the lake and backed it off the trailer, but when i when to go forward it bogged down.....I have yet to get it to idol correct since. It starts, idols up and then go down. I can hold the choke a little more than half closed and I can get it to run okay. What do I need to adjust."
 
Sounds like either the vent is

Sounds like either the vent is closed on the fuel tank or the metering jets in the carburetor are dirty.
If the vent is open have the carb cleaned.
 
"it does it when the tank hose

"it does it when the tank hose is not connected to the motor also. I cleaned the vent, and the carb also. Still doing it, but it has to be a high idol with the choke held nearly closed. Almost like it is getting to much air."
 
"I ordered a new float chamber

"I ordered a new float chamber and cleaned the carb up real good. Put the carb back on the engine and started it, and everything seemed to work great. I did not run the gas out of the engine, and today the engine is doing the same thing it was. It will start, idle up, and then bogged down.

Could it be the float losing its buoyancy after soaking up fuel overnight???
It is the only thing around the carb i have not changed."
 
I replaced the float chamber b

I replaced the float chamber because the other one was rusty on the inside. I had prevously taken the carb of to clean it and i think I may have scratched the inside of the float chamber which caused the rust after i let fuel sit in there a few days. So I just bought a new float chamber and cleaned the carb again.
 
"Those float chambers have a t

"Those float chambers have a tendency to rust on the outside BUT they won't rust on thhe inside due to the oil being mixed with the fuel.

If a float is bad (no buoyancy), fuel will flow out of the carburetor when the primer bulb is pumped up."
 
"I'll try to help out what

"I'll try to help out what I can, but I'm not sure I follow completely....

First of all, everything you're describing still sounds like the fuel tank isn't vented... The fact that you let it sit for a few days and then suddenly it started working fine after you did your "work" would seem to imply that the pressure had equalized a bit... After a little running the tank was under vacuum again and nada...

Sounds like you have an external plastic tank? If so, on the top of the tank, probably on the fill cap itself is a small vent you need to "screw" open while running... In a pinch if for some reason you can't find it, you can test this "theory" by removing the fill cap while it's having the problem and see if it "fixes" it or continues...

Is the float cork? The older foam corks were sealed with varnish and certain things, especially carb cleaners could remove the varnish which could in theory allow it to soak up fuel and no longer float as intended... If it's not a cork float, then it's HIGHLY unlikely this is your problem...

Do you have a fuel filter? Have you checked it?

I'm really confused by the "rust" thing... It certainly sounds to me like you're saying the bowl of the carb was rusted INSIDE... ??? If that's the case then something definately isn't right... There's no way a bowl will rust with normal fuel in it... Is this fresh gas? Are you sure it's even gas? LOL..."
 
"The float does not look like

"The float does not look like a wine cork, but it is black and not metal. feels like a hard foam material.

I do have a plastic tank, and I took the top off to clean out the vent. I blew through it and it sounded fine, but i will try it with the top off.

The fuel is not yesterday fresh, but within a month. If there is a hole in the tank cap then I assume that water can get through there which could be the problem.

As for the rust, when I was cleaning the carb i used a screw driver to scrap some of the dirt spots off of the float chamber, and my theory when I saw the rust was that I may have scratched away some protective material on the inside of the chamber.

No, there is not a filter, just the little 1.5" x 1.5" fuel pump.

I ordered a float but I will try these other simply things (cap and fresh fuel) first....."
 
I have a Johnson 9.9 late 80&#

I have a Johnson 9.9 late 80's model and was having the same problem. I replaced the fuel pump and the problem was cured.
 
"Thanks to everyone.

I am n

"Thanks to everyone.

I am not having fuel come out of the carb, so it must not be the float. the fuel pump was the next on the list."
 
"Sirius you were correct about

"Sirius you were correct about the vent being screwed down on the tank cap, but I unscrewed it and took the cap off, and the problem is still there, but It doesn't seem to be as bad because I get throttle response (or, at least i did at lunch) when I increase the idle, and it seems to stay at the higher rpm for about 4-5 seconds before slowing down. Also, it does not seem to decrease as fast as it was. I am still having to play with the choke lever to get it to catch up. the other guy said it might be a fuel pump, but the only reason i question that is because the motor was running at the mechanics shop.

would i have to leave the cap unscrewed for a specific amount of time so that the pressures equalize, or would it be an instantaneous improvement?"
 
"No, it would have equilized i

"No, it would have equilized immediately. Assuming you left it open during your testing it would have "fixed" the problem if that was the original cause...

You can easily test if the fuel pump is giving you problems... First if it has a screen make sure you clean it... Secondly, try your test again but this time keep pumping the primer bulb (to keep it hard) while the motor is running and see if it does the same thing. If running is normal with pumping the bulb then your fuel pump is the most likely culprit. You can probably just get a rebuild kit for it and that should fix you right up."
 
"Yeah, I thought about pumping

"Yeah, I thought about pumping the bulb during lunch, but ran out of time. i will try it this afternoon and let you know what happens"
 
"Okay, I got it running...the

"Okay, I got it running...the needle value needed to be screwed out some???? But now, I am back to backfiring (what I call 'Poof') when I idol up fast and then idol down. I had the carb adjusted perfect during the winter, but now I can not seem (which I not spent much time adjusting it) to get it back the way I had It. If I screw the needle in to make it run leaner and get rid of the 'poofing', then I lose throttle response when trying to increase idol. (very slow to pick up, bogging down again). If I screw it out (richer) then I get the 'poofing again)... Should I focus on the high speedn jet. I understand that on this model engine the high speed jet does not have an adjustment.

Should i take the carb apart and clean the high speed jet, or just purchase another one, or does this even sound like the issue???"
 
"Start by checking the sync...

"Start by checking the sync... Not sure of the specifics of that engine, but basically the timing plate has a "cam" on it... Somewhere on that cam should be a mark or marks... The shaft of the carb should be linked to a "cam follower" that rides along that cam... Different motors have different ways to adjust and set...

Mine for example has two marks on the cam. As you advance the throttle from idle, as SOON as the carb shaft starts to move the cam follower needs to be centered between the two marks on the cam. Again, your motor may vary...

As for the high speed jet, I assume you mean the orifice? There isn't much you can do for it other than to make sure it's screwed in and seated all the way and not plugged up."
 
"Double check youur carburetor

"Double check youur carburetor work, and make sure that the high speed jet is actually clean.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"Reeves, If I screw the needl

"Reeves, If I screw the needle in and then back out 1.5 turns, that puts me back to the problem of where I have to hold the choke nearly closed just to keep the engine running. If I back the needle out to get the engine to stay running, then I have the mild backfire as if it is set to rich."
 
"definately sounds like the sy

"definately sounds like the sync is off...

Before the awesome folks on here "schooled" me on outboards, I had a very similar condition... The carb needle would have to be out a good 2 1/2 turns or so to run, yet idle was very rough and throttle response was terrible...

I had two problems... First the sync was off a bit, and perhaps more importantly the "stop" on the carb linkage was set way to early... In other words, opening to WOT caused the butterfly to go WAY past fully horizontal and closing back off...

Basically it was causing the butterfly to open WAY WAY earlier than it should have...

Once I got those two adjusted everything fell into place... Now the needle sits about 1 1/4 turn out for perfect adjustment...."
 
"Tim replied "Reeves, If I

"Tim replied "Reeves, If I screw the needle in and then back out 1.5 turns, that puts me back to the problem of where I have to hold the choke nearly closed just to keep the engine running."

If pumping the fuel primer bulb (acting as a manual fuel pump) doesn't cure that problem as long as you continue pumping it, that indicates a fouled carburetor. I suggest you tear it down again."
 
"I think I understand the sync

"I think I understand the sync, and I will check it even though the pics in the book are hard to see. As for the carb 'stop', are you talking about the screw that moves the cam follower?
As bad as I hate to, I will tear the carb down again and do another good inspection/rebuild.

One more question: Would you get more mild backfires with the needle screwed out more or screwed in more? Or does it matter?"
 
"The "stop" I was refe

"The "stop" I was refering to would be located on the "wire" that extended from part 108 below up to the mechanism that operates the cam follower.
Basically it dictates how far the throttle has to be opened BEFORE the butterfly starts to open.

252744.jpg
9.9 parts
 
To my knowledge that engine do

To my knowledge that engine does not have any 'wire' going from #108. I think You are mixing with the 25/30?
The 9.9/15 carb is operated by the cam follower/roller following the cam on the armature plate. The armature plate on the other hand is linked to #108!
 
Morten said: To my knowledge t

Morten said: To my knowledge that engine does not have any 'wire' going from #108. I think You are mixing with the 25/30?
The 9.9/15 carb is operated by the cam follower/roller following the cam on the armature plate. The armature plate on the other hand is linked to #108

---------------------

Whoops.. My mistake... Is there any adjustment on that engine to adjust how far the butterfly opens at WOT then?
 
"Depends on year and which ver

"Depends on year and which versions of follower and cam that is installed. The carb roller is aligned with the cam mark with a screw in the roller assy. Some older versions You have to adjust the cam itself for correct opening, on 'newer' versions it is a screw in the cam itself to to adjust the cam 'angle' to get correct opening. Then I think it has been introduced a newer roller assy with 2 screws, but not quite sure about that. It all depends how much have been broken and replaced during the years."
 
"Mine is a cam follower (p

"Mine is a cam follower (plastic, u-shaped) with a roller that touches the cam(?). It has 1 screw that can be screwed in or out. Back during the winter when I first rebuit my carb, I was adjusting the slow speed needle and this screw to get the right idol without the mild backfires, and I had it pretty good, did not even have to choke it to start the motor(man, I miss those days). But, CORRECT ME IF I AM WRONG, I think I need to check the carb again because I cannot get the engine to stay running without holding the choke nearly closed with the needle screwed out 1.5-2 turns. Once I get this accomplished (not having to hold the choke), I should be able to fine tune the sinc and the cam follower and etc... Now, I plan on checking the sinc with marks and all that stuff also....just have to find the time...........}"
 
""I cannot get the engine

""I cannot get the engine to stay running without holding the choke nearly closed"---this is absolute lean/lack of fuel....ur carb,..is not clean............when we say that,we r not,neccessarily,..talking about how shiny that lil bowl is...flip it upsd down,clean the HS jet..CLEAN..make sure float drops,and 'flows' as it should."
 
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