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First time out this season

smchaplin

Regular Contributor
well it was 70 here today so i

well it was 70 here today so i decieded to fill the boat up and go out for the day haveing some gauge problems but i know its minor fixes first it was the volt gauge and guy walked me thru that one now its the Trim gauge so it looks like im gonna have to spend the day on my head and replace all connectors but i got to say Man what a difference the PERTRONICS IGNITION made she runs like a top and i can ohnestly say that i think ill be able to get her in the water more this year than in the previus only used a quater tank of fuel and done twice the cruzing that would normaly take a full tank Thanks Guy for that recomendation to bad there calling for snow next week but atleast i know all that was done this winter worked out P.S. alpha one. is it hard to replace the impeller
 
"Congrats !! welcome to the Pe

"Congrats !! welcome to the Pertronics Family !!

Impeller's not to bad, drain the outdrive oil or remove the 6 bolts/nuts the hold the lower to the upper (one under the trim tab anode) put a golf tee in the oil hole of the upper, dont loose the little o-ring seal for the oil passage, better yet get a new one. then the impeller is on the vert drive shaft under a cover, depending on the age you may be better off getting a complete impeller kit. comes with some seals and o-rings and the oil passage o-ring. sometimes the housings get a little melted. good luck"
 
Steve:

Glad it works for yo


Steve:

Glad it works for you. See the post I sent you on cleaning the trim position sender; it may help. Brian is right about the impeller. One thing when dropping the lower OD; two side nuts and bolts can't be removed completely until you get the case separated. Remember upon reassembly to start the nut onto the bolt before the cases are reattached all but 1/2".
 
i found the problem with the t

i found the problem with the trim gauge as soon as i stuck my hand under the dash so im just gonna remove the dash and rework all the connections . the reason i want to replace the impeller was when i backed the boat partialy in the water to warm up the engine before i launched it cause we all know those 470s are cold nature on a 100degree day . i put the cap on the front of the heat exchanger and started it and it seemed like it took an awful long time before it sputterd any water so i dont want to take chances with this boat but i ran it fairly hard for about three hours and it never got hotter than 150 that was checking it with the gauge and a heat sensing gun
 
"Got the boat in the water yes

"Got the boat in the water yesterday and I've got a few quick questions if anyone can help. My Oil pressure guage has always flicked about all over the place at low revs. and I've never taken too much notice of it as it steadies as the revs increase, would this be more likely the guage or the sender? Out of curiosity, what pressure should it run? ('91 5.7 350 mag). When serviced I had fitted a new thermostat, the engine now runs hotter, between 160-180c where as before it was 140-160c. I know it's down to the stat I've fitted but what is the better operating range for this engine?

Cheers

Mark"
 
"Sorry, my post got attached t

"Sorry, my post got attached to Steve Chaplin's for some reason! If anyone can give advice, it would be much appreciated"
 
check all your connections on

check all your connections on your gauge itself mark ive had gauge problems this year and found em all to be at the gauges and there connections
 
"oil pressure min is 10lbs per

"oil pressure min is 10lbs per 1k rpms, 40 at idle is great, 20 might mean the motors a litle worn but is ok, 10lbs the bearings are a bit worn. RWC-Raw water cooled (no anti-freeze and heat exchangers) should have a 140 stat, FWC-Fresh water cooled or closed cooling uses a higher stat. 160-180 is fine for a V8, it may be running hotter due to other reasons. if previous owner put a auto water pump on and it's spent some life in salt water the vanes could get worn. rusty & plugged exhaust manifolds will cause it to run hotter, a weak or worn impeller will also cause it to run warm, I've seen engines used in salt water and not get flushed have a lot of rust in the the block rust inside will block passages in the head gaskets. this can be checked somewhat by removing the block drain valves on each side. I've also seen blocks freeze cuz mechanics drained the blocks and not see water cause those drain valves were blocked."
 
"Thanks Brian, between flappin

"Thanks Brian, between flapping around the guage is showing 20-30 PSI at warm tickover which I'm guessing is acceptable for it's age? I'm going to run with the current stat, I've not given it a proper sea trial and put it under decent load yet, I'll see what happens then."
 
Mark:

Your oil pressure sen


Mark:

Your oil pressure sender is probably shot; sludged inside. My 87 4.3L did that after 18 yrs and replacing it cured the gauge jumping; my gauge was new.
 
"Thanks Guy
I'm going to


"Thanks Guy
I'm going to replace the sender and the guage I think, I've only got 3 of the original guages left as I've changed them over time so they may end up all matching at some stage! Where on the block will I find the sender?

Cheers

Mark"
 
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