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81 j150 engine problems

Hi guys I see the problem the

Hi guys I see the problem the throttle cable trunnion is not in its holder and this is causing
the problem...the cable can not pull the throttle levers back
 
yep good eye!!!!

i am glad

yep good eye!!!!

i am glad to see the problem was resolved.........i looked at the pic and saw the timer was hooked up and was stumped.
 
"the little black knob in fron

"the little black knob in front of the adjusting wheel, right at the end of the threads........it should be inside the metal clamp with the 2 screws."
 
"i see, but i did that when i

"i see, but i did that when i had to move the cbles out of the way to clean the carbs, when i thought the carbs were the problem. this issue began before that. I do believe that the timing is off, im sure thats the problem, it makes the most sense based off all the problems ive had in the past. ill refer the shop manual and get back to you guys, it'll be a couple days."
 
"which problem are you referri

"which problem are you referring to the stall or the over rev?

the timing isnt adjustable as in the way a car is adjustable...........its pretty much sets itself at idle ..wide open is the key adjustment

the carbs are probably the most likely source of your problem...after you get the throttle cable back into position.

when you cleaned your carbs did you manually clean all the orifices with a wire, carb cleaner, and compressed air?.....shiny insides doesnt mean its clean. those orifices and tubes can build up with varnish and gunk that has to be manually removed.

the carbs are usually the probem with idle and starting issues...especially if the eng has been sitting for a long period of time....gas evaporates leaving behind the oil....and like i said earlier varnish is a big problem in thse brass parts.

i would fix thecable and see how she runs......hopefully it will fix the over revving problem...then we can move on to the fuel issues."
 
"i mean the cables that are co

"i mean the cables that are connected to the lever thats connected to the carbs, they need to be readjusted, so that the timing can be right."
 
ok i thought you were talking

ok i thought you were talking about the ign timing....yeah the link and sync procedure is probably in order.....the main thing you can do while you wait for your manual is make sure the cam and cam follower arent contacting each other....there should be a minimal space between the 2.....if they touch your carbs will open too soon and can cause flooding.

the cables can be a lil tricky too they have to be set together so they work in unison .....and you dont want it popping out of gear
 
"ok will do. I did notice befo

"ok will do. I did notice before fixed the cables' positions that the cams were touching, i thought it was a little odd, ill check that and fire it up tomorrow and see how it works."
 
"You still have problems. You

"You still have problems. You need to do a complete link and sync. The info David gives about the cam and cam follower not touching is important, but that happens to be one of the more important link and sync settings. They call it adjusting the pick up point. And when he says "minimal space"
between the two, in actuality it is .005". So, you must do the link and sync, followed by proper throttle cable adjustment and correct assembly of the cables in the lower cowling. All of this is in the book."
 
"Hey guys, day 3- battery is r

"Hey guys, day 3- battery is recharged ready to go, i fixed the cable positions and when in doubt about the correct adjustments, i looked for the rust spots compared to the clean spots on the cable to get a close adjustment position, return it to near normal. I fired it up, everything seams better, but not perfect quite yet, im still gonna need the manual to get the exact positions. Now as i was setting up the muffs i noticed a huge problem that may have contributed to the flooding noises i heard at the lake. There is a huge crack in the frame of the lower unit near the propeller about where the muffs attach. Im uploading a pic so ya'll can see it. I dont know if its actually a major problem or if it can even be fixed, dont know how it happened nor when, but its there. God save my engine!!!
251397.jpg
251398.jpg
"
 
ouch!!!

a rebuilt one will

ouch!!!

a rebuilt one will cost you around $2000.

and that was probably your stalling problem....no oil and binding gears.

i have a '79 johnson 115 and found that used lu's in good shape are around $500-800.....if you can find one that the skeg isnt bent or broken in some way....of course mine is a 4cyl and yours is a 6cyl so yours may be a lil more expensive.

i believe you may be able to go on ebay or some kind of boat trader link and find one.

good luck and sorry for your misfortune.
 
"Can i just replace the very l

"Can i just replace the very lower part that the prop is connected to? It looks like it detaches from the rest of the lower unit. If i can do that i might only need to get that replaced, or try to get it welded shut."
 
"that is the lower unit......t

"that is the lower unit......the piece it is bolted to is called the mid-section, leg, exhaust housing, etc..... it has many names.

but you are going to need at the very least a housing...which means you would have to dis-assemble yours and do an inventory on bad vs good parts.

i doubt you can have it welded and expect it to last......there are bearings and gears in there......if im wrong about the welding someone will correct me.

i would try to find a used one."
 
"oh ok, i thought the whole pi

"oh ok, i thought the whole piece below the engine was the lower unit. Ok i need a little instruction on removing it. Theres 5 bolts that i found and removed, those being the 4 in the side and the 1 behind the stabalizer"
 
"you need to scribe the trim t

"you need to scribe the trim tab (little fin behind te prop)....well usually because it needs to go back in the approximate location, since you will be replacing th lu note what # it is on ----if you have a good skeg and the next one also has a good skeg they will be approx the same local......... now remove it there will be anothe bolt under it.

before you get all the bolts out you need to disconnect the shift rod......the bolt is under the lower carb, just follow the linkage from the cable and you will find it....and the whole process is easiest if the eng is tilted all the way up and on the trail lock

now you may have to give it a tap with a rubber mallet or put a piece of wood on the antiventilation plate (long fin above water pick-up holes) and give it a tap or three......sometimes they stick.

careful that lu is a lil heavier than it looks.......some people on here have said to put an old tire or wooden shipping pallet under it incase it gets dropped during removal/installation"
 
"Well, i removed the bolt conn

"Well, i removed the bolt connected to the shift rod, the the rest of the bolts including the one under the trim tab, but it only lowers a little and i cant seem to find another area to disconnect the shift rod. and you werent kidding, that thing weighs as much as my dresser."
 
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