Merc 800 Flywheel Torque Specbs

"Hello all.

I've search

"Hello all.

I've searched archives but have not been able to find out what the torque specifications are for the flywheel bolts to a 1972 Mercury 800 (80 hp). I need both the center/main bolt to the crank, as well as the bolts that the flywheel actually mounts to. It looks like whoever had this before me and my brother had it loose to replace the stator (and a whole host of internal wiring harness issues) but that they lost interest.

I've redone the wiring on the inside and repaired the leads on the stator. Now I just need to tighten things up, but know I need to do it right.

I know my first two purchases (other than the wire I already bought) need to be a new impeller and a Seloc manual, but I was hoping to get things buttoned up before I could have one shipped to me. I would do the online thing, but I'm really into having a paper manual.

What sayeth the group? Thank you in advance for any assistance you can give.

Jason"

"Hi Jason, Torque the fly whee

"Hi Jason, Torque the fly wheel nut/center nut to 100 ft lb, I couldn't find torque spec for the flywheel bolts,I tightened them to where I can with a a ratchet and socket so if anyone else knows I'll be happy to know too.
One other thing, if the flywheel has been split there is a possibility that it might not have been replaced correctly. Set the #1 cyl to TDC, using a dial indicator,or any way you can, then check if the straight line on the fly wheel,the arrow on the dissy pulley are in line.If not you'll have to take those nuts out and set the flywheel correctly"

"Noel,

Thank you very much

"Noel,

Thank you very much for the information. I found on another site that the eight flywheel bolts should be torqued to 25 foot pounds and have that done already. But I couldn't find any Merc specific information for the center bolt (Johnson's or Evinrude torque theirs at 105 foot pounds).

I did find information on how to reset the flywheel and think/hope that I have done that correctly. I do not think they had the timing belt off, and have not been able to see any arrow on either the flywheel or the "dissy" (distributor?) pulley as you called it. There is a painted dot on the flywheel, and a roll pin/notch on the outer pulley that connects/spins the distributor. This pin lines up with the mark on the top cowl as TDC for # 1 piston when it is in fact at TDC. That is where I lined up the paint mark as well for the flywheel.

If this doesn't sound right, please let me know. I've still got some work on the external wiring harness, so I won't be in a position to try and actually start this motor for a while. I'm cautiously optimistic that the wiring was the main/only issue with this motor as I got compression readings of 130-137-137-135 on cylinders 1, 2, 3 and 4, respectively.

Thanks again for all of your help. It is very much appreciated.

Jason"

"Hi Jason,
Thank you for

"Hi Jason,
Thank you for the torque spec for those bolts.Those are good #'s for the compression. Back to the distributor pulley,there is also a small nub/outshot on the pulley and one on the distributor mounting bracket,when the white dot the roll pin line so do the small nubs. The straight line alignment mark is on motors 2881081 and below.
the arrow is on the pulley under the plate on top of the pulley.
I would also suggest a carb rebuild,"

"Thanks Noel,

My serial beg

"Thanks Noel,

My serial begins with 342, so that is why I don't have the arrow/line I guess. I do appreciate all of your help and think/hope that I have everything put back together correctly. After tonight, I now have everything rewired, both internally and externally other than the tach...that will likely require another post, along with help on rebuilding the carbs, since those are different topics. I'll do a search to see if there is already something out there.

Thanks again Noel.

Jason

As for the"

"Hi Jason,
There is a so

"Hi Jason,
There is a socket on the front of the merc control into which a three wire tach loom plugs in. The wires are brown = sig,black = ground, white = hot. The brown is attached to the switch box and needs to be transfered to one of the yellow/red wires on the rectifier."