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Ujoint exhaust bellows life expectancy

marada1

Regular Contributor
Is there a recommended replace

Is there a recommended replacement frequency for these things on a Cobra? I know yearly inspection is advised. I've owned mine for 5-6 years. The drive was a basket case when I got it but the bellows seemed fairly new. I launched the boat for my first time in Aug of 2007 and used it minimally last summer. Dont think I've run it enough that my u-joints or gimbal bearing need attention but I'm wondering if I'm on borrowed time on the bellows?
 
"3.0 Cobra GM
Oil and filter


"3.0 Cobra GM
Oil and filter every 50 hours or twice a season 4 qts w/filter. Gear case same time span w/60 oz. of oil. U-joints once a year lube w/marine wheel bearing grease and add some to shaft splines befor putting the out drive on. Gimble bearing done while outdrive is off so you can all old grease out, then wipe the old out of the way. The zerk fitting is on the right side for land lovers we call it Starboard side. Most do at startup and mid season to cover it best unless your a stlickler for on the dot changing times.

4Main"
 
"Best I can say is do annunal

"Best I can say is do annunal inspection by removing and check for wear and corrosion also the flap valve operating correctly. they don't get much water in them if any only heat and fuel deposits will cause corrosion, cracking and the like. Sound test with small ballpean hammer: tap lightly and a thin wall will sound much softer then thick wall.

4Main"
 
I know I included it in my ori

I know I included it in my original post but the exhaust bellows doesn't concern me much. It's designed with holes in it. The u-joint bellows DOES concern me. That sucker will sink me! I guess I'll pull the drive and change it before the summer season. Better safe than sorry. I was really just wondering what some of these long time Cobra owners and experts have seen as far as longevity of it.
 
"The main one to maintain is t

"The main one to maintain is the u-joint bellows, the exhaust one can fall off and it won't hurt you but the u-joint one can sink you. As already stated the annual inspection is key once the drive is removed, check for any water in the bellows (should be none) the water will destroy the gimbal bearing and the u-joints over time. When not using the boat try not to leave the drive in the UP position as that stretches the bellows. There is no recommended time for replacement although if you do it now you have a going forward point. The last ones I changed had been on there for almost 10 yrs."
 
"Thanks Bob, thats the info I

"Thanks Bob, thats the info I was looking for. Espesially your last sentence. (I guess we were typing at the same time above) I was thinking I had read that it should be changed every 1-2 years which didn't make sense because mine is several years old and still seems in good shape. I can get my hand around it pretty good with the drive on the boat and it still seems soft and plyable. Guess I was trying to talk myself out of pulling the drive because I just don't have many hrs on the new u-joints and gimbal bearing. I had also read you guys saying to store the drive down. I haven't been doing that because that puts my skeg on the floor (boat is stored on trailer) and it's still a long way from completly down. I keep it in my shop and have to move around from time to time. So if streching the bellows is bad thats probably another good reason to have a closer look."
 
"I would just try to keep it a

"I would just try to keep it as low as possible so it's not fully stretched, when left in that position for a period of time it can "take a set" just be mindful not to grind down your skeg as you move it around
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"
 
"Last question on this hopeful

"Last question on this hopefully. Searched the part (3854127) on this site and found it available OEM, Sierra, and Mallory. Of course the OEM costs quite a bit more than the others. Is the OEM worth the difference? Your thoughts.....
Thanks"
 
"Your bound to get different o

"Your bound to get different opinions on this. My own opinion is that I believe the OEM part could be of higher quality, I realize that OMC is gone but BRP must have these things made by somebody to their specs. I would hope that the bellows lasts you for a minimum of 5 yrs so spreading the extra cost of the part over 5 yrs, (a part that could sink your boat or lead to other expensive failures) I would go for the OEM."
 
"Here's an update Bob,
Fi


"Here's an update Bob,
Finally got around to changing the bellows' today. I was surprised to find (a little) water in the drive bellows. The bellows was in decent condition other than haven "taken a set" as you called it from being stowed in the up position (my bad)
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. What I did notice was that it had no gasket sealant on the pivot housing end like the manual recommends. Also the clamp on the gimbal end was not very tight. Maybe these two things explain the water.
On the other note, I gambled and ordered the Sierra bellows. When I got it back in March, I could tell by look and feel that it was not the quality of the one I was replacing. I reordered the OEM. Got lucky on the price. MEngine had it listed under the old and new number. Showed one in stock with the old number with a price half that of the new number.
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Anyway, there was an obvious difference in quality of the two parts. The OEM is thicker rubber and therefore more solid feeling. Compared the weight and found 1.3oz difference. About 9%.
Went ahead and used the Sierra exhaust bellows.
Thanks again.."
 
"Thanks for the update Chuck,

"Thanks for the update Chuck, I know the OMC costs more but hopefully in this case you are getting what you paid for, also considering the consequences of one these that fails, the extra you paid goes a long way to piece of mind."
 
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