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290 pivot pin

"The pins are not threaded. Re

"The pins are not threaded. Remove the allen screws 73A, then drive the pins <u>inwards</u> (towards the bellows) with a punch and a hammer."
 
"OK. A point of confusion on

"OK. A point of confusion on my part. I actually have SP-C drives (similar to 290, with reverse tilt inhibit and hydraulic trim). I assumed that the pins are the same for the SP-C and the 290, but apparently not. The service manual describes a tool 885148 that looks something like a slide hammer used to pull the pins out on the SP and DP drives.
I can readily find parts lists for the SP-A, 290, and 290A drives. But I have not found a list for the SP-C that accurately shows both the reverse tilt inhibit and the hydraulic trim, so I was guessing that the 290 parts list was (nearly) the same.
Do you know the thread size for the SP-C pivot pin?
And just out of curiosity, why do you suppose they made this part different for the SP/DP and the 290 series?
249516.jpg
manual pg 27"">
Picture taken 2 years ago when the boat was transported.
249517.jpg
SP-C drive photo
 
"Here's another bit of inf

"Here's another bit of information. The starboard drive has a nameplate on the upper gear housing with SP-C, serial number 3102069342 (Sumerset confirms this is the original stbd drive) and part number 854019. When I google "Volvo Penta 854019" the first return item is a link to Volvo Penta store SP-A, SP-A1 drive unit.
This only adds to my confusion..."
 
"Why do you keep assuming that

"Why do you keep assuming that the hinge pins are threaded? They are not, and the slot is only there to align the groove in the pivot pin so that you can later insert the pin lock screw. If the pins were threaded, you wouldn't be able to remove them with the special tool 885148, would you? Look carefully at the shape of the tool on page 15 (13) of the manual, and you will see what I mean.

Once you remove the lock screw, you should be able to drive the pin inwards (not outwards like the book says) with a punch as I already mentioned. The manual tells you that if you remove completely the pin the drive will fall; for that not to happen, just put some wood blocks under the skeg. Also, when you drive the pins inwards, the punch will assist in supporting the outdrive once it reaches the fork in case you haven't supported the drive properly with wood blocks."
 
"One note of correction. I jus

"One note of correction. I just went to the volvopentastore site and realized that the pivot pins do have different numbers for the SP-C and for the SPC-A. Not sure at this point why, but I am assuming that if they have drilled and threaded them on the outside, this should be to facilitate their removal. However, and unless I am missing something critical, I cannot see why these pins could not be driven inwards for their removal (like in older models). Is something interfering in their way if driven inwards?"
 
"I can't verify that the p

"I can't verify that the pins are indeed threaded since the boat is tied up at the marina 120 miles from here - sure would be nice to trailer it home for off-season repairs. After enlarging the manual picture I see what you are saying - that the tool may be used to push the pin inward, not pull it out. Maybe the round hole in the center of the pin is simply there to seat the end of the tool securely.
If the pin is a straight cylinder I see no reason why one could not push it in.
A brass punch will certainly be less expensive than Volvo's tool."
 
"The pin is threaded, with 1/4

"The pin is threaded, with 1/4 inch NC threads in the center for removal (at least on my 290 they are). You need to remove the locking allen bolt, then get a 1/4 inch NC bolt that can be attached to a slide hammer and slide hammer the pin out. They DO NOT go inwards on this drive.

I am sure they are 1/4 inch bolts, it should thread in easily, if not then I may that the thread size wrong. I did this work last year.

Good luck"
 
"Hi Rob, now you have awaken m

"Hi Rob, now you have awaken my curiosity. What does prevent the pins from going inwards? Do they have a recess, or do they hit an obstacle -i.e. the helmet-, or...?"
 
"The hinge pins are kept from

"The hinge pins are kept from sliding in or out by a 1/4 (or 6mm) allen bolt threaded into the TSK. After removing these 2 bolts, they may be used to thread into the hinge pin and used as a puller as mentioned above."
 
"I will rephrase my question :

"I will rephrase my question : What does prevent the pins from being driven inwards with a hammer and a brass punch after removing the securing pin like in the older models? Do they have a recess, or do they hit an obstacle -i.e. the helmet-, or...?"
 
"The steering helmet assembly.

"The steering helmet assembly. This leg has the tilt/trim set-up and the pin cannot be punched inward. I welded a 1/4 inch grade 8 bolt to a nut that fit onto my slide hammer and pulled the pin out.

I learned this the hard way, spent alot of time on it before I figured it out."
 
"Thanks, Rob. Is yours one of

"Thanks, Rob. Is yours one of the later model steering assemblies where helmet and steering yoke are riveted together instead of bolted and cannot be separated?

I thought there must be a logical explanation when VP modified a system that worked well for many years.
happy.gif


"
 
"Mine is a 1992 290 SP drive.

"Mine is a 1992 290 SP drive. I do remember the helmet assembly being in the way, therefore it needed to be pulled out with a slide hammer.

I was trying to post picture of the drive, but cannot find my service manual.

Have a great day,

Rob."
 
"Good exchange, folks. I appr

"Good exchange, folks. I appreciate the info.
El P, could you try that link again? I think the one that you posted points back to this thread, not a parts list."
 
"My Bad...

I just checked m

"My Bad...

I just checked my slide hammer and it is a 5/16 NC bolt that is needed to pull the pin, not 1/4 inch like I said above. I used a gr 8 bolt. Memory is not like it used to be....I must be getting old

Here is an excerpt from the Seloc manual.

"servicing a unit with power trim, the hinge pins are not driven out, they are actually pulled out of the transom shield. As an aid to pulling these pins, the manufacturer has drilled and tapped the pins with 5/16 x 18 threads." ...."Operate the slide hammer and pull the pin free of the transom shield"

Have a great day,

Rob."
 
"I see the difference in the s

"I see the difference in the steering yoke/helmet area. I really need to make a better inspection of my drive - good thing there's no ice on the lake right now 'cause it's time to wade in.
I'd still like to find an accurate parts list for my drives since mine definitely have the hydraulic trim (note hoses at left of transom shield with 90° elbows turned down), which is not shown in the SP-C parts list link above.
249580.jpg
transom shield"">
It is interesting though that this SP-C parts list has a different pivot pin part number than other lists (SP-A, 290) I have been checking."
 
"Well, I braved the 75°F lake

"Well, I braved the 75°F lake water (I'll pause for you guys in the Northwest US and Canada to laugh here...ok) and attempted to chase the threads in my 4 pivot pins with a 5/16 18 tap. The tap was a little too tight for my liking. I went ahead and bought 4 new pins p/n 853175 and the hole is tapped for 8mm-1.25 threads which I confirmed with a 8mm tap. I guess 5/16 is close enough that you can force a bolt in if you want. Just for the record..."
 
"Mike, I know that this thread

"Mike, I know that this thread has been inactive for a while.
I believe that your drive is what some refer to as the small pin 290. Since it has the SS cylinder swing bracket, and the reverse latch, I'd say so.

The "C" drive got away from the swing bracket and also uses the larger suspension fork "Hinge Pins".
Be careful when using the slide hammer on these pins.... heat on the transom shield "hinge pin ears" is your friend.

Are you aware of how to get the base cylinder pins out for removing your tilt/trim cylinders?

."
 
"I think so, Ricardo. I'm

"I think so, Ricardo. I'm not too worried about the pivot pins being stuck in the bushings/journals since the drives were pulled in March 2007 for bellow and oil change when the then new-to-us boat was transported between lakes - fresh water in both cases.

I was a little concerned about getting the right part number for the pins. However, when I got the 853175 pins, I compared one to the existing pins installed on the drives - they appear to be the same diameter (about 18mm) and length. What is the difference between 853175 and 872493 which I assume is the "larger hinge pin"?

I've got the Volvo OEM service manual and the instructions that are furnished with the new trim cylinders. I've trimmed away enough of the plywood ring inside the engine compartment to provide the necessary clearance to pull the inboard trim cylinder pins out. I've read about the grease-pressure method to force the pins out, but figure I'll have to pull them with an appropriate tool.

Any other suggestions that you would like to offer would certainly be appreciated."
 
"Mike, you clearly could not m

"Mike, you clearly could not mistake the two pins.... there is quite a difference in diameter.

Use the grease gun pressure..... it is the appropriate method for removing the base cylinder pins! You'll want and need the hydraulic force!"
 
"OK, Ricardo. I'll give t

"OK, Ricardo. I'll give the grease gun a try. Is the grease zerk that fits the transom shield the same size as the one found on the side of the drive intermediate housing (p/n 940194)? Or the one on the spindle arm (p/n 914169)?"
 
"Our project to replace the tr

"Our project to replace the trim cylinders on both drives was undertaken Sunday. Our marina owner was kind enough to permit us to tie up her boat ramp all day by backing the stern of our houseboat up so the drives would be out of the water. The starboard drive had 2 basic problems - one broken cylinder piston, and inoperative reverse latch. Sure enough, the Volvo procedure for pushing the inboard trim cylinder pins out with grease pressure worked just like the manual says - probably helps that this is a fresh water boat.
One minor problem after reassembly - a very slight fluid leak at one of the plugs. We resorted to Teflon tape on the threads to stop it. Anyone else encountered this?
285950.jpg
Starboard transom shield w/o drive"">
We encountered a couple of unexpected issues - the hose connection was corroded more than we thought, but didn't have a replacement so used the old one. And one of the 6mm jacking bolts broke off in the steering pivot bushing - again, no spare so that will be replaced later."
 
"One other interesting thing -

"One other interesting thing - the starboard shifter had been very difficult to move from neutral to forward or neutral to reverse. After cleaning up all of the growth/dirt/corrosion on the reverse latch components and the gear latch, the shifter works like much better."
 
"Just a tip for you guys who a

"Just a tip for you guys who are removing your drives for work and/or drive shaft bellows replacement, PDS bearings, etc.; "pull the transmission only for this work!"
There is no need to remove this as one unit! Make it easy on yourself!!!!

If you DO need to perform other drive work, I still say remove the transmission first by itself only.
When going back together, you will be amazed at how much easier it becomes.

Study this..... test on Friday!

."
 
"Duh, should have been "ge

"Duh, should have been "gear yoke" in my last post.
Ricardo, I tried to edit my post about the experience but it didn't work - I wanted to add that I appreciate the many good words of advice that I received when I posted rookie questions about this work. And I know that you have advised numerous times that removal of the upper gear unit makes the job easier. However, I chose to remove the complete drive so that I wouldn't have to worry about resealing the sections. There was no evidence of water in the oil that was drained from the drive, so my compromise in the removal procedure seems to have been worth the gamble. However, I could not have done it the way I did without the aid of 2 other people (it's a little awkward handling the complete drive when you're leaning over under the deck of a houseboat even when the load is slung from a makeshift trolley).
Anyway, thanks to all who helped virtually!"
 
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