Fuel Delivery Problem

"I have a 1985 Carver 3207 Aft

"I have a 1985 Carver 3207 Aft Cabin with twin Crusader 350's. I discovered a fuel delivery problem in the starboard motor so I immediately changed the screen at the carburetod and the fuel/water seperator. This did not solve the problem (still no fuel at the carb) si I decided to change the fuel pump. Upon removal and disassemble of the old pump, I found quite a bit of sandy crud blocking the screens. Even though the new Carter pump was exactly the same as the old one, it was VERY difficult to install. I even tried turning the engine slowly with a socket and breaker bar to find a "sweet spot" to accomodate the rocker arm, but it was still very difficult to get the bolts started and "walk" them in by tightening them slowly and alternately. After hooking everything back up the carb was still not getting fuel. I then used a brake bleeding hand pump to pull fuel from the tank (no blockages) to the inlet of the pump for priming and poured some fuel backward from the carb end but it did not help. A pressure check at the carb showed 0. I also rechecked all connections (gasoline pipe dope on all hard pipe joints) and everything seems tight. When I put starting fluid in the carb the engine fires up instantly but dies after the fluid burns up. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you."

"Did you push up on that rod t

"Did you push up on that rod that operates the fuel pump? If not, the rod might be in there wrong and jambing, but not operating, the pump.

Also, in your battle to get the pump installed, did you compare its arm shape with the old one (in case you got the wrong pump)? Been known to happen.

Jeff"

"Jeff,

Thank you for your r

"Jeff,

Thank you for your response. The "rod" that you are referring to.....do you mean in the motor or on the pump?? The rocker arm on the pump would move by hand with a good bit of pressure. I did not check any engine internals for movement....yet. As I said, the pump was very hard to bolt on so I was hoping to find a solution that did not require removal again. I have installed at least 8 mechanical fuel pumps on cars and trucks in the past and never had this type of problem.

As far as the old and new pump match.....they were exactly the same, including the length and shape of the arm. That was my main reason for ordering another Carter versus a Sierra.

Once again, thanks for your response.

Joe"

"I know that some Chev, engine

"I know that some Chev, engine models (short arm on fuel pump) have a push rod that goes between the eccentric (lobe on the front of the camshaft used soley to drive a fuel pump) & the fuel pump acuating lever. This rod slides in a machined hole thru the engine block casting.,
I have seen that rod slide down out of the correct position for instlation of the new pump.
I have had to take a pipe plug, out of the block (directly) below the fuel pump mount, & hold the rod up in the correct position with a small screwdriver, until I got the fuel pump arm up into a positiion that held the rod in place.
I aasume the plug is there to plug a hole that was used during the engine block's machining process.

Fred 156-M"

"I'd do this, since it&#39

"I'd do this, since it's entirely possible the push rod is actually worn out. Remove the pipe plug and measure the push rod length. If per spec, reinstall with grease, to hold it in place in the block. You might want to prime the system with gas, using an outboard primer bulb. Remove after priming."

I would check the gas tank sid

I would check the gas tank side pull the draw tube out if you can. Mine had a screen in the bottom of the fill tube and was filling up with crap from the take. After getting plugged twice I pulled the screen out and let the other filters take care of it. These days you never know what is floating around the tank thanks to ethonol.

350 engine does not have a pip

350 engine does not have a pipe plug below the fuel pump 454 does. On small block chevy V8 you would need to remove the adapter plate behind the fuel pump to get to the push rod. If you do not do something to hold the push rod up when you remove the pump it WILL slide down and there is no way to properly install the pump. You have likely damaged your new fuel pump or bent the push rod forcing it on.

"one of the missing items is t

"one of the missing items is that the cam lobe has worn out, too.

Like it or not, you're gonna have to take things apart as right now what's there isn't working. The old fuel pump may have had sandy crud in it but it may have been working.

Only other potential item is vacuum leak in the fuel feed line from the tank to the pump."

"My action was to pull the pus

"My action was to pull the push rod out, place a blank cover over the opening (I picked the cover up at the automotive parts house) and install an electric pump. End of problem.

Chuck"

"I still like the push rod sli

"I still like the push rod slipping down verdict for now. (remember the part about "no sweet spot" & "difficult to get the bolts started")
But I do like the electric pump idea Chuck.
Did you power it thru a relay, with the oil pressure switch completing the relay circuit, or just power the pump with an ing. hot wire?

Fred 156-M"

Let's hope so! I kinda li

Let's hope so! I kinda like Chuck.

Jeff

"I actually installed a time d

"I actually installed a time delay relay in a circuit with the oil pressure switch that allows the pump to run for 30 seconds after the switch is turned on. This allows time for me to get gasoline to the carb after the boat has been setting for a few days. If there is no oil pressure after 30 seconds the circuit opens and the pump shuts off. If after starting the engine stops or the oil pressure drops, the fuel pump shuts off. This provides protection not only from a gasoline leak into the bildge but damage to the engine in case of oil pump failure.

Chuck Hanson"