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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Redford, MICHIGAN,

    Default "thought I posted here earlier

    "thought I posted here earlier...but I dont see it! SO here it gors again...

    I want to fix this beast, while it is still below freezing here in Michigan... LOL

    I noticed it is leaking oil by the cavitation plate, and before I put it away last fall, it was spewing a grey oil out of the exhaust post. Even I know that aint a good sign.

    So, which seals do I need to fix? Or should I just do them all? Would this grey stuff indicate a bad impellor? Or something else?

    What tricks or tips do you have to make this painless? LOL

    Also, I noticed a thread about the ATOM solid state ignition gizmos. Supposed to replace the points and condensor or something... And, I ran across something like it on Fle-ebay. And wondered.... would this be a PLUS or a MINUS for this little gem of a motor?

    thanks in advance for any responses!


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    , Ontario, Canada

    Default "Hey Matt, The grey stuff c

    "Hey Matt,

    The grey stuff could mean a grease leak, but could also just be the unburned fuel/oil mixing with the water in the exhaust, which is perfectly normal.
    Check the gearcase, and if the oil looks good (not white or full of shavings), your seals are probably ok. Make sure the fill and vent screw washers are in place and in good shape or gear oil will leak from them.
    As for your impeller, if it hasn't been changed in a few years, it is likely in need of replacement anyways. Some Eska/Sears/Techumseh combinations were air-cooled head/liquid cooled exhaust, and others had liquid cooled heads as well. Even if your motor is air-cooled, don't run it out of water or you will damage the impeller.

    Post the model number (217... for Sears) to help narrow down what type of motor you have."

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Inverary, Ontario, Canada - The Great White North Eh!

    Default "Agree with Wayne. That gre

    "Agree with Wayne.

    That grey goo (to me it looks like a McDonalds chocolate milkshake spilled on the sidewalk in the summer) [img][/img] is almost always just crud from the exhaust housing.

    But yes, do change the gear oil - sure won't hurt.

    I have installed Atom computers on two motors over the years (a couple of Gale's) and both are still working fine (more than 10 years after refit).

    The Tecumseh I may tend to leave alone mostly because parts for them are still so readily available at thousands of small engine shops all over - no "scavenger hunts" looking for points.

    If the model was obscure or more difficult to find parts for, I would make the change. Performance wise, I detected no difference between OEM points and the Atom..."

    A "professional" is someone who gets paid for their work - it doesn't necessarily mean they are good at it :)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Redford, MICHIGAN,

    Default "Thanks guys! As to the ATO

    "Thanks guys!

    As to the ATOM thingy... I was just curious, as it would be "more inexpensive" than the new condensor/coil route. But the point is well taken!

    So, I should not be too concerned about the grey goo? OK. But the leaking lower oil concerns me. I cant tell for SURE, but am pretty sure the leak is NOT due to the fill/vent screws. Maybe a bad gasket from the column to the skeg?

    Model is (from what I gather...) 217.59860

    I bought this at an auction. it had been repainted and redone a few tmies. Nothing left for markings but an engine tag. Lucky for me, ESKA only made one unit that matched!

    642-01A Sears 3.5 HP

    Now, let me try to get more info from you...LOL

    How do I adjust the timing/synch of the throttle lever and the timing? Simple, or hard?

    same question with points/condensor...

    I appreciate your knowledge and willingness to share!


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Hell Paso, westex/SoNM, EUA

    Default "Matt--- points setting is


    points setting is easy, there's only 1 lobe on the cam that opens the points so you just set em at highest point of lobe. i believe spec is .020

    for timing, ever timed an old 2 stroke dirt (or street) bike? similar procedure. this is my understanding from factory shop manual but i've not yet done it on mine. set the piston at specified # of thou below top dead center using dial indicator in plug hole (or even small rule if you're careful/desperate)(factory made spl tool but dial ind with plug hole adaptor will work fine). timing is adjusted via loosening grub screw in central "collar" of mag plate assy and rotating plate to where points are just opening. then you have to adjust the bar that the mag assy uses to in turn move the carb butterfly, but i need to read up more on this. i need to do this on both my 3.5 and 7.5 Eski so i'll get back with you once i do it. not hard procedure but a little tedious."

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