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Over heating problem

rocky1

Member
can anyone tell me what they t

can anyone tell me what they think this might be ? i have a AQ131C volvo 4 cyl and i have some water not a stream of water but like a spray comeing from under the exhaust of the out drive ??
 
i am writeing again please any

i am writeing again please anyone have a answer ?
i have a AQ131C 4 cyl and some water is comeing out under the exhaust of the outdrive any answers for this please need help bad ??

thanks Dennis
 
"Dennis, with the few details

"Dennis, with the few details you give I will have to make a guess. If you are experiencing that "problem" while testing your outdrive with a set of "ears" and a garden hose, please check this link:

http://www.volvo.com/NR/rdonlyres/399B6AF9-F4C7-48C0-9992-10C076D4CFEB/0/AQ131C_ SP_1988_en.pdf


Have a look at page 4. Are you experiencing that jet of water through the hole in item 10? If so, this is normal. That hole is there to drain the water chamber when the boat is out of the water.

Now, if the water comes from a hole under the area 6, this would mean that your outdrive steering fin (trim tab) is missing, so the water will come through the hole where the steering fin should be.

If neither of these answers describes your case, please provide more information."
 
ok sorry let me start again th

ok sorry let me start again the water comes from a flap right near # 8 it looks like if you took a line from that cavatation plate and drew it strait back to the transom it would be a rubbrer flap there un the tramson sheild and it leaks there does not pour out but it leaks and when it does it will over heat another way might help it is a rubber flap just above where the drain hole is for the water to drain from inside your boat just abou that there is this flap very hard to explan hopefully you no what i mean ?
 
"Dennis, I think I know what y

"Dennis, I think I know what you mean. Please have a look to this link:

http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1924&GroupList=1923,1922,1899,1901,1902,1903,1904,1900,1924,1905,1906,1907,190 8,1909,1910,1925,1926,1911,1927,1912,1913,1914,1915,1916,1917,1928,1929,1930,193 1,1932,1939,1919,1934,1935,1920,1936,1921,1937,1938,1940

Item 92 is the exhaust pipe. If you look at the shape of the exhaust, you will see a hole about 3" wide (which is where the exhaust bellows is attached) and a smaller hole underneath. That hole is sealed by a rubber grommet with the rubber flap you described, and it is a "bypass" hole that has several functions, including: it drains the water left at the bottom of the exhaust pipe when you trailer your boat, and also provides relief for the engine exhaust when the engine is running at idle and there is not enough pressure in the exhaust to open the main flapper.

What you get through this hole is a mixture of cooling water and exhaust gas, and this is normal. Regarding "overheating", I don't know whether you are referring to the engine or the exhaust area around the flapper itself. There should be enough water coming out to cool the gas to the point that you should be able to withstand the temperature with your hand. If this is not the case, you may have a cooling problem (not enough water flow). Typical causes of lack of cooling include: 1) a corroded hose connector (part 99 in the above link), which is a clamshell-loke housing in your ourdrive where the raw water hose is connected and that will make the raw water pump suck air if corroded; 2) a faulty impeller in your raw water pump; 3) a plugged-up raw water strainer (part 7 on page 2 of this link: http://www.volvo.com/NR/rdonlyres/399B6AF9-F4C7-48C0-9992-10C076D4CFEB/0/AQ131C_ SP_1988_en.pdf ); 4) a fouled heat exchanger; and 5) an internally corroded exhaust manifold."
 
"i see what your saying if you

"i see what your saying if you look at like 62,63 64 that looks like some sort of flap but at first when it happened it poured out of there and emptyed all my cooling system antifreeze my local dealer said i have a craked block !now i cant beleave that because the boat runs strong no miss in it or nothing ,however i had to put stop leak in it to see if it would stop leaking and it did but2 months later i now have the same problem ! i fear i have a real bad problem ? what do you think ? i have replace all hoses ,new water pump ,new impellor all belts new thermastat i have put a lot of money in this problem and still it leaks there from time to time lost and confused !"
 
"A cracked block? I doubt it,

"A cracked block? I doubt it, the coolant would have to defy all laws of physics to reach the exhaust manifold. The two likely places where you could lose the coolat into the exhaust are a cracked head (small quantities) and the heat exchanger (potentially large quantities)."
 
well iyou may be right it is t

well iyou may be right it is the original heat exchanger i have never taken it of to inspect and when it happened i poured out all the antifreeze i put stop leak in it and it stoped for 2 months if it were a heat exchanger would stop leak have stoped it from leaking ?? because that happend we have had a problem keeping it cool anyway when you excelarte it heats up to about 220 degrees and when you slow down it comes down to 160 degrees ?? what do you think ?

thanks for all your time if i could get to the bottom of this problem it would be great i have had this problem for months and no one can seem to help as much as you have already and i thank you
 
"Correction: you could also ha

"Correction: you could also have a blown head gasket, in which case the coolant could reach the exhaust manifold. However, in the case of a blown head gasket or a crack in one of the cylinders (very unlikey in a fresh water cooled engine) I would expect to see overpressure in your fresh water cooling system and coolant coming through the "radiator cap" (water reservoir cap).

My guess in your case is either a pinhole in the heat exchanger or (less likely but not impossible) a cracked head."
 
"If antifreeze is comming out

"If antifreeze is comming out of that hole when driving on 'muffs', Your heat exchanger is probably leaking."
 
"If the boat overheats when on

"If the boat overheats when on the plane but not when not on the plane, I am almost 100% sure that the problem you have is the hose connector in your outdrive is corroded/perforated and the raw water pump is sucking air. Just disconnect the water hose from the outdrive and have a look at the hose connector, chances are you have to replace it (not a big job). Here is the part you will likely need to replace:

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-2778&returntopage= 80240788.htm"
 
so then you think you would ru

so then you think you would rule out the heat exchanger ? what blows me away is i have no loss of power at all the boat still gets up and runs out well but i always have this overheating problem when running wide open when at idle or just cruising at slow speeps it stayes in the normal range around 160 degrees but wide open 220 or more but never loss of power and never any water comeing out the radiator cap no presure there !
 
"No, what I say is that you ma

"No, what I say is that you may have two different problems. I suggest you start with checking your hose connector, they fail a lot in your type of outdrive. Afterwards, and regardless of the results, you may consider to have your heat exchanger inspected/pressure tested (I know I would). You can also pressure-test the whole block at about 15 PSI if you can get a pump with an adaptor having the same dimensions as your "radiator cap"."
 
i did do that with a presure t

i did do that with a presure tester i have and when i pumed it up water poured out that flpper area like i said !that when i put stop leak in it to see if that would stop the leak and it did for like 1 month maybe 2 and now it has begun to leak again ! but under presure that is the only place water came out is where we have been talking about

thanks again
 
"Summarizing, hose connector [

"Summarizing, hose connector <u>and</u> heat exchanger are your two likely problems."
 
"Let me make a small suggestio

"Let me make a small suggestion:
1:Take down Your heat exchanger, replace or repair it. While You are at it, replace the cam shaft belt and check/replace the lower (cranckshaft) gear.
2: When did You last change the bellow(s) and lubricate the spline shaft? Perhaps time and then check/change the water hose connector at the same time."
 
i have had the heat exchange o

i have had the heat exchange out about 4 months ago and cleaned it out real good did not see any leakes at that time but it was very dirty . but what would the cam shaft have to do with a water leak ?
 
"You are 2/3 on the way to the

"You are 2/3 on the way to the belt, and may save quite some time and perhaps money to have it checked while You are there. If the gear is not corroded and belt ok, the You are safe in that end. Filling the exchanger with 'stop leak', You might as well use cement! That stuff goes everywhere and takes the cooling capacity off the exchanger. My advice is to change it!
Some people like to go boating, some people like to get their 'downside' tanned in the boat. If You preferr the first, I got the feeling that some maintanance is needed a bit here and there and sometimes it may be cheaper to do before it all brakes down. Neither El Pescador or I earns a dime on this, we just try to help people to enjoy boating the way it is intended and we both , I think, have enough experience to read' between the lines' how the status of many of the engines are. A timing belt may cost 10$ (?) extra to change if changed in time,but if unlucky and it fails at 5000 rpm You may quickly fill the engine with water and bend some rods at the best.
The hose connector is one of the 'regulars' at this board, so are bellows and corroded spline shafts.
However it is all Your decission, we may only suggest!
sun.gif
"
 
"i only asked becasue i am jus

"i only asked becasue i am just trying to learn and beleave me i do appreate every thing both you and el pescador for all your advise i was dealing with a local volvo dealer truing to get all these problems handled and so far they have taken me for over a $1,000 and not once have they mentioed checking what you both have told me !i have just checked the cap on the outdrive there is no corrion there the cap looks new to tell you the truth ! i also just presure tested it by putting 15lb with my presure test and it stayed there never leaking or loseing presure i left it on for 15 min however i have done that before and never see a leak but when i get it out in the water it will rise in temp to 220 or more at high speed and lower at low speed so would you say at this point i have a clogged heat exchanger especally since i put stop leak in it ? by the way the local volvo dealer told me to do !!

thanks you both for all your time in helping me to try and figure this out i no no one get payed to do this both of you have been great
thanks again
Dennis"
 
"One more thought, Dennis. How

"One more thought, Dennis. How old is the exhaust manifold? And, if more than 4 years old, when was the last time you boiled it? When those things clog, they restrict water flow. One thing you may want to try is disconnect the copper pipe going to the bottom of the exhaust manifold and also the exhaust hose between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe; then flush the manifold through the hole where the copper pipe is attached and see how easily (or how difficult) des the water flow though the riser part of the manifold."
 
"One more thought, Dennis. How

"One more thought, Dennis. How old is the exhaust manifold? And, if more than 4 years old, when was the last time you boiled it? When those things clog, they restrict water flow. One thing you may want to try is disconnect the copper pipe going to the bottom of the exhaust manifold and also the exhaust hose between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe; then flush the manifold through the hole where the copper pipe is attached and see how easily (or how difficult) does the water flow though the riser part of the manifold."
 
i have had the boat for only a

i have had the boat for only a year i have had this overheating problem ever since i dont really no how old it is but my guess would be the orignal ! i think so i do not no when or if it has ever been boiled out ! did you get to read what i wrote before that i presured tested it system for 15 min and not a drop ?

thanks
 
"Yes, but the exhaust manifold

"Yes, but the exhaust manifold is raw-water cooled. What I am trying to say is that even if your hose connector may be new, if your cooling pump has a new impeller, if your raw water strainer is clean, and even if your heat exchanger is not choked, all that will not help if your exhaust manifold is internally choked, as this will restrict the amount of raw water circulating through the system.

Again, I suggest you carry the previous test and see how mouch flow of water you get leaving through the manifold's riser. Look at the exhaust manifold for your engine:

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-1930-1&returntopag e=80240783.htm

You will see there are two concentric pipes in the exhaust side; there should be plenty of water pouring between the inner and te outer pipes (the inner is where the exhasut gas comes from). If not, the manifold is plugged and needs to be either boiled or replaced (if old, your best bet is replacing it)"
 
i will do that next and let yo

i will do that next and let you no ! i just want to get to the bottom of all this i will try anything it is driving me crazy not to just get it fixed and my local volvo dealer is a crook !!!

thank again i will try that and let you no how i make out
 
"Along the lines of what Denni

"Along the lines of what Dennis is going through I have an AQ131a 1985 that is also overheating (very typical - fine at idle or low RPM but up to 200+ deg at higher rpm's) - you guys have given me lots of things to explore in this post and previous posts. So I was messing around with the engine today and looking at exhaust manifold and tomorrow will run water through it as suggested above. But to check Heat X I unscrewed plug on raw water copper pipe to exhaust manifold to drain it then I thought to run the engine to make sure raw water impeller was working and notice that water flowed fine but was fairly cool/warm going into manifold. But heat X was very hot to the touch - even after only 1 minute of running. No thermostat that I could find so I think previous owner removed and coolant runs through engine block from the get go. Also Heat X was welded at some point around perimeter to seal it! But it was recently cleaned and boiled. (Also no oil cooler that I could find but not sure if that's just an issue with the engine model). And coolant typically overflows exchanger - though filler neck was re-built due to corrison and I originally thought that was the reason it was overflowing.

In general it seems that if Heat X is that hot to the touch (can barely keep my hand on it) raw water coming out of X to manifold should be pretty warm/hot, no?

Also, noticed that last "pipe" of Exhaust Manifold is leaking exhaust due to bad gasket or corrison (hard to see but can feel intense stream of heat at joint of manifold and block). Tried to remove manifold bu broke head of last bolt being removed because it was so old - will be struggling a bit with that for a while.

Ultimately I think first thing to tackle is to replace the Heat X completely. Is it possible it simply has fundamentally failed somehow (pretty simple device so if it was boiled how could it "fail")?

Any recommendations where to get a replacement?

Again, you guys are fantastic. Like everyone this overheating problem is incredibly frustrating.

Thanks!

Jim"
 
I have the same overheating pr

I have the same overheating problem and have traced it to the hose connector. How much of the stern drive do I have to remove to replace the hose connector?
 
"Michael, you don't have t

"Michael, you don't have to remove anything from the sterndrive to replace the hose connector; you just need an allen wrench to remove the two allen bolts and a screwdriver to remove the hose clamp. The hose connector area is a bit tight, but it is no rocket science to replace it."
 
"In order to establish whether

"In order to establish whether You have an air leak from the outside or restriction on the inside, put a clear REINFORCED plastic hose befor the pump, and make it like a loop. Then You would be able to see if air is sucked in."
 
"Hello,
I have a 97 Volvo Pen


"Hello,
I have a 97 Volvo Penta 4.3GL. I don't use it very much, last year when I used it I remember the temp running around 140-160.
I stated it up with the hose attached to the stearn drive and kept it at idle. I did not see much of any water comming back out of the stearn drive as I was use to.
I assumed it was the water pump or Thermostat so I replace the waterpump, I wanted to take the thermostat out of the thermostat housing but was afraid it would break so I tried testing it in the housing. Appeared to open but not sure how much.
When I checked to see how the temp and it climed over 160, and there was little to no consitant water comming out of the stern drive.
Could someone tell me what I should check next? The Volvo penta dealer here charges an arm and a leg to do any work and has a long waiting line for service.

Thanks
Pat"
 
"Lack of cooling could be due

"Lack of cooling could be due to a clogged water intake in the outdrive, a defective raw water pump impeller, a fouled raw water strainer (if there is one), a fouled oil of power steering fluid cooler, and clogged exhaust manifolds/risers.

When was the last time you renewed or boiled the exhaust manifolds/risers? And which water pump did you replace, the one attached to the crankshaft pulley (raw water pump) or the circulating pump?"
 
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