Creamed oil

"Judging from the pics you pos

"Judging from the pics you posted of the rocker nuts, your head should be a torque to spec for the rockers. Look at the stud in the head, is it a screw in stud or a press fit? Most screw in studs in factory engines are torque to spec. Also, does the stud have a shoulder on it just below the threads? If it does they are torque to spec.

As far as water in the oil. The best way to check for water in the oil is to pull the oil filter and check it. I have seen engines with a clean dipstick still have water in the oil. If the oil in the filter is clean then your problem is most likely condensation. The oil and blow by fuel is vaporized and in high humidity it will mix with the water in the air and when it contacts the cooler areas of the engine it will condense thus only being in the upper sections of the engine. Keep an eye on the oil mixture in the engine to rule out water intrusion.

Water in the manifolds is 99% caused by leaking riser gaskets. It can come from backflow during deceleration. To avoid this, whenever you come off plane watch the water behind the boat and when it is about to wash up the transom give it a small amount of gas. This will keep the water from washing up the exhaust. The biggest problem I see around here is folks not wanting to spend the money on manifolds and risers. The manufacturers only warranty the items for 3 years for a reason. I'm going to imagine (I may be wrong) that your manifolds and risers are original or at least 5+years old. "They looked OK to me" is the biggest excuse I here when it comes time to do hundreds or even thousands of dollars in repairs.

Whatever you do I recommend using The quicksilver coated gaskets for the risers. They are more money but better leak prevention. I have had the green ones leak almost immediately with a new set of man/risers."

"The short version of each iss

"The short version of each issue - - -.

1. Water in the Exhaust manifold

Jim N. and boatrep1 are both correct! The gasket on the exhaust riser was indeed the culprit, sort of. The mating surfaces of the exhaust manifold and exchange riser did not get resurfaced when the engine was reassembled. Resurfaced both pieces, installed a new oem gasket. (with a new spare on hand!)

2. Creamed Oil in the upper engine area - - -

The problem was mis-torqued intake bolts. Enough water got in to 'milkify' all of the oil. I used the Texas sun and a clear plastic shower curtain. The Sun heated up the engine (covered in a shower curtain) and oil enough to cause it to de-cream, and run into the oil pan. Spray marvel mystery oil all over everything you can see, and let it keep draining. change the oil, change the filter. run the engine up to op temp, repeat. No more water in my oil.

3. boatrep1 called it on the rockers too. They are self levelling roller lifters with positive stop shoulder studs. Initially I had installed the rockers correctly, as there is no way to adjust them. This time I bled them down, then re-installed. Worked like a charm.


Carb Kit
2 sets of intake manifold gaskets (felpro)
2 cylinder head gaskets (felpro)
1 manifold riser gasket (oem, thick & silver)
15 quarts of oil (so far)
3 oil filters (again, so far)
1 seloc online manual
1 chilton chevy s-10 manual
1 clymer mercruiser manual
1 bottle marvel mystery oil
18 sparkplugs
1 set spark plug wires
1 cap /rotor set
1 high volume oil pump
1 cylinderhead rebuild
1 dipstick tube oil change pump
2 tubes thread sealant (so so)
1 pushpop type thread sealant (much better)
many many hours of computer time
14 gallons of sweat (estimated)


The engine cranked yesterday afternoon, and ran like a dream for 30 minutes or so. It idles rock solid, and responds to throttle movement with no sluggishness at all. It runs better than it ever has. I am back on the water!!!!!!!

Thanks again for all the help and information everyone has taken the time to give. Every bit helped!

Phillip"

"ROCK -N-ROLL!<[img]"http://ww

"ROCK -N-ROLL! "