1995 Evinrude 175 60 Degree Looper OIS

"If You have spark, do You hav

"If You have spark, do You have it at the right time? Is the timing wheel at the top of the cranckshaft locked in the key-way and the center not loose? If You have a timing light, test with pick up at 1 cylinder. Note that the blinking from the light may cause the engine to mis fire."

"Well, I finally had time to w

"Well, I finally had time to work on my engine some more and I found that I have no spark. This boggles me because it is using the stator, powerpack, and ignition coils which were running fine on the other motor.

Any ideas as to what to check for now?

By the way, the timing wheel only goes on one way and it is tightened down."

"If You are usng the COMPLETE

"If You are usng the COMPLETE ignition system from the other engine, there is no reason there is no spark, unless the wireing harness somewhere grounds it."

"Well, I went outside tonight

"Well, I went outside tonight to check spark again, but this time, I disconnected the packard connector from the powerpack which goes to main engine red plug, and proceeded to do the spark test, and it fired, so I scrambled to flood the engine to stop it. Plugged the spark plug wire back in and the engine didn't start. So I wiggeled the wires around, and it started. At this point I'm about to buy a new engine wiring harness and put it in place. I sure hope this solves the problem or at least put me in a better position than I am currently in.

Thanks again for the help, and if there is any other suggestions besides replacing the harness I'm all ears, as I don't think the harness is going to be cheap."

I am getting a bit confused as

I am getting a bit confused as what You really did. You took out the packard connector from power pack to wireing harness and engine started. Then You pit spark plug wires back and it did not start? Don't quite get the connection.
Earlier in this tread You removed from the same connector all wires except quick start (yellow/red) and quick start out (black/white)?
Are You haveing spark plug wire problems or harness problems?

"Well, Frankly I don't kno

"Well, Frankly I don't know.

What I did was I went to do a spark test at night, but I thought I would try disconnecting the packard connector for the test. With spark tester in place, the engine surprisingly fired up. I went ahead and killed the engine and remove the spark tester. In doing so I must have moved some wires around, and after I reconnected the spark plug test to the spark plug it did not want to fire again. So I wiggled the engine wiring harness around a bit, and it started again.

I just found out that the harness is about $220, so I think I'm going to pull it out, and repair it the best I can. I think I might also order a new set of spark plug wires."

"If You have the harness with

"If You have the harness with the big read contact, that is not uncommon to get shorted. However to be sure, pull it apart and check if any of the connector pins are loose. Then try to find the ground wire (black) comming from the harness and disconnect it from the block. Try to start. You will have to make a short separate ground wire for the starter solenoid and use a jumper wire between red/yellow and B+ at the releay as well. Remeber to take the excisting ground off the relay when testing, or You would still have ground in the harness!"

"I went ahead and removed the

"I went ahead and removed the entire engine harness ending in the big red plug. Made a small ground wire going from the negative stud to the solenoid, and also made a little wire connected from the solenoid which I could make temporary contact with the red battery cable. After a few attempts the engine started up after clearing the flooded cylinders.

So it appears that the red plug is shorted some how. A new harness is around $220 and only covers have the plug, leaving the possibility that it is the female part of plug going to the console. I was thinking of either removing the red plugs and buttsplice/shrink wrap the wires directly, or try to find some 10 or 12 connector plug which are marine grade. I somehow think finding a plug of this type will be rather hard and probably costly.

As a side note, my other engine has had the red plug elimintated, and the contacted a crimped together and covered in what I believe is black neoprene dip.

Any suggestions?

Thanks again for all the help."

"if You do not need to remove

"if You do not need to remove the engine, soldering is one option. I have a couple of times when this has happened used deck fittings for sailingboats as replacement plugs. Not that cheap, but at least possible to remove/disconnect the cable."

"I went ahead and crimped/shin

"I went ahead and crimped/shink-wrapped all the connections. It finally turns on from the console. Just have to finish tightening all the fuel pump connections. I just started looking at my other engines wiring and it is literally disgusting, much worse than the other. A number of terminals have broken off due to corrosion, including the wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the powerpack, which explains the reseason quick start didn't work on this engine.

Anyways, thanks for all you help Morten, not only did you help me fix my engine, you gave me a one month crash-course in outboard mechanics."