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1995 Evinrude 175 60 Degree Looper OIS

A

aabond

Member
"Hello,

After various recom

"Hello,

After various recommendations given to me in another thread, I bought a new stator and installed it since the old one had melted plastic/rubber substance underneath it. Same problem is occuring where the engine fires for a few split seconds and then dies. So I decied to swap out power packs with my other engine to see if the powerpack is the culprit. The engine that is running fine right now does not run with the powerpack from the inoperative engine. So I think, great it's the power pack, problem found. But just to make sure, I put the power pack from the good engine on the bad one, and the engine still does not want to run. So I swap them back to the original way they were and the good engine now runs but the bad engine is still not running. I tested the rectifier/regulator by using an ohmeter and it appears to be ok since there is high readings in one direction and low readings in the other in the various connections proposed by the manual. In short, I am running out of ideas, and would greatly appreciate any help people can provide me with.

Thanks again,

Andrew"
 
"Andrew.... Possibly the kill

"Andrew.... Possibly the kill circuit, which is the black/yellow wire leading from the raised boss "M" terminal of the ignition switch to the powerpack, is shorting out. This could take place via a failing ignition switch, or a conductance short within the wiring harness (either harness) or the connector where the two connect at the engine.

To test the ignition switch, simply remove the black/yellow wire from the switch. If all is now well, replace the switch. Note that with that black/yellow wire removed, it will be impossible to shut down the engine via that ignition switch.

To test the harnesses, find and remove the correct black/yellow wire that leads from the engine's wiring harness to the powerpack.

NOTE... You should have stuck with the original thread so that we wouldn't be repeating ourselves. I just came across that old thread and edited here to insert this note.

If the above suggestions are to no avail, you might try the following.

Disconnect the solenoid energizing wire from the "S" terminal on the back of the ignition switch. All other wires, including the black/yellow wire are to be attached.

Rig a temporary button switch jumper wire from a battery connection to that wire. With that button switch OFF, turn the key to the start position and hold it there (nothing should happen so far). Now, engage that button switch to energize engage the starter solenoid, letting it return to OFF when the engine fires.

During the above process, keep the ignition switch held in the start position. If the engine continues to run, shutting down only when you release the key, then obviously somehow you are shorting out the ignition in the RUN position of the ignition switch.

Keep us informed as to what you find."
 
"There is one 'normal'

"There is one 'normal' problem with theese engines:the optical sensor located inder the timing wheel. try to swap that one as well. It is an infra red 'light bulb' and normally it goes out like a light, but sometimes it may act like in Yout case. If the stator had stated melting, it is just a matter of time before it had broken anyway!"
 
"Thanks for the responses and

"Thanks for the responses and help.

As far as the ignition switch/kill circuit, I went through that problem a few weeks ago and so I bought a new ignition switch for each engine. That cured the problem. From experience now, I just disconnected the plug/boot/connecter that goes from the powerpack to the shift switch which then goes to the ignition switch. So I don't think that is the problem right now.

Could the regulator/rectified be a concern right now? or does that just function in regulating the charge to the batter and sending a tach signal?

Another question is in regards to the fuel pump. I took it apart making sure all the lines are clear. When I pump the primer bulb fuel does go into fuel and then to make sure it exited the fuel pump I disconnected the hoses that go from the fuel pump and into the carburetors. Plenty of gas gushing through, and it seems like the carb bowls are recieving fuel. I also rebuilt the carbs about a month ago and they were clean to begin with.

I'm just running out of ideas at this point and I'm all ears because otherwise I might have to get a mechanic, and the pretty penny that is going to cost me doesn't do my college student bank account very good.

I will also try swapping out the optical sensor cover from my other engine.

Anyways, thanks again for the help and your time in helping me troubleshoot my engine.

Andrew"
 
Well I swapped out the optical

Well I swapped out the optical sensors and still the bad engine isn't running. The optical sensor from the bad engine was placed on the good engine and runs fine. So the optical sensor does not appear to be the problem.
 
"Since this have been going ov

"Since this have been going over two posts, let me summarize.
New stator, new optical sensor, new power pack, disconnected stop circuit and engine still runs erratic. Plugs are ok QL78YC?
Do You have spark?"
 
"Engine doesn't run, it mi

"Engine doesn't run, it might fire once or twice while cranking, but stops firing as soon as you stop cranking.

I just installed a new set of QL78YC about a month ago at the same time I rebuilt all the carbs.

I haven't checked the spark because I'm a little unsure of how exactly to do it correctly. I've heard if you don't do it right, it'll blow the powerpack because the spark goes back to the pack. Can I get a little info on that?

Right now, I'm going to swap out stators between engines to make sure the new stator is good, although I don't see a reason why it shouldn't be.

Thanks Again,
Andrew"
 
"Well, the new stator that I j

"Well, the new stator that I just recieved seems to be in working order. Just to remove doubt that it might have been defective, I swapped it over to my other engine which runs. Put everthing back together and the good engine with the new stator runs fine. So it is definitely the new stator. I swapped out optical sensors, both sensors seem to work fine on the good engine.

Any other suggestions or thoughts?"
 
"To test the spark the best is

"To test the spark the best is a spark tester and a baillast (recomended for this engine). Anyway if there is no spark, the plugs should be totaly fueled down! If not, a fuel problem. Does the primer solenoid work?"
 
"What's a baillast?

W

"What's a baillast?

When I crank the engine, fuel and oil starts appearing in the water which I would think is unburnt fuel coming out of the exhaust.

I do believe the fuel primer works. When I press the key in I hear the little click it usually makes along with the slight voltage drop."
 
"Ballast is a special resistor

"Ballast is a special resistor made for the OIS systems for testing, but You may do it 'the old fashioned way: Hold the plug to a clean engine ground and check for spark. However do not let plug wires hang loose around when performing the test.
The only part yet to test in the system is the fly wheel! I have never yet experienced a bad flywheel on theese engines, but one time has to be the first!"
 
"I will swap out the flywheels

"I will swap out the flywheels out tomorrow on my engines and see if that is the culprit.

Other than buying a new $1000 flywheel, is there a way to knock the old magnets out and glue new ones in? or have it rebuilt?

Would the magnets lose their strength almost instantly? Reason I ask, is because I started both motors up real easy, warmed them up for about 5 minutes, and then idled down the canal for about 10 minutes. Then the engine just died?

I want to thank you Morten for all the time you have spent in trying to help me diagnose my problem."
 
"As I said earlier, never expe

"As I said earlier, never experienced a flywheel 'dying' when running. What may kill a fly wheel is if dropped on the floor, hit it hard with a hammer, or store it 'up side down full of screws etc!
However I had an incident some years ago with a 115 OIS ignition where I had to change stator, power pack and optical eye before it ran properly. The stator 'lacked' 10ohm on the measurement, the optical eye ran perfect on another engine, the power pack was locked in 'slow' as the owner had been running NGK 'R' plugs. The store selling the 'R' plugs refused to take the claim' went with the owner to the boat and reinstalled a new set of 'R' plugs and went testdriving. Called me at the marina after 30 minutes, I had to tow them back, replace the power pack for the second time, The shop keeper paid!!! Sometimes things happends in the electronics that is unexplainable, NGK 'R' is explainable, but other things are not.
I doubt it is the fly wheel, but is the only thing yet not swapped. If possible take the black/yellow wire out of the connector at the power pack. If it starts, You need to 'kill' the engine by choking with the primer solenoid."
 
"I have not used ngk plugs, st

"I have not used ngk plugs, strictly champion QL78YC. I can take the the black/yellow wire out of the connecter, but I have taken the boot connector off that goes from the powerpack plug to the shift kill switch to the red wiring harness. I also tried starting the engine while the packard connector from the power power was disconnected.

I will go ahead and swap out flywheels to see what results I achieve. I just hope kind of hope I don't have to replace the flywheel being that it is one expensive part.

Thanks again,

Andrew"
 
The cables that come from the

The cables that come from the power pack and go to the optical sensor is surrounded in a red mesh with a black plug.

The cable that goes from the stator to the powerpack is in a grey mesh with a black plug.

And finally the cable that comes from the main red engine harness plug is without a mesh and has a grey packard connector.

The boot plugs which I mentioned earlier are black single connection plugs which go inline with the black/yellow wire.
 
The spark plug cables are yell

The spark plug cables are yellow stainless steel marine cables with black boots.

I can take pictures of anything if it would help.
 
"In Reply to Joe Reeves Sugges

"In Reply to Joe Reeves Suggestion before, which I just noticed, instead of creating a jump switch, I will swap ignition switches with the good motor."
 
The cables should be grey! Mar

The cables should be grey! Marked OMC Surpression!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Do You have same cables on both engines?
 
"No, the other engine has oran

"No, the other engine has orange boots with blue wires and it has someing about silicone written on them.

I just swapped out the ignition switches and there was no difference. Could the jump switch be explained in a little bit more detail?

About the SP cables, they have been running for a quite a while with them on. Would they all of the sudden cause the engine to die?"
 
"I forgot to mention. When I

"I forgot to mention. When I swapped out power packs, coils, and cables, the engine still did not want to run."
 
"I have bad experiences when c

"I have bad experiences when changing parts fromoriginals on the Evinrude/Johnsons when it comes to ignition systems. Plug wires are not allways what they look like!
However I would like You to try the following:
In the packard connector that goes to the power pack, I want You to remove the black/yellow stop circuit wire and the tan alarm wire leaving only the yellow/red and white/black wire. This will totally take away the stop circuit from the power pack, leaving quick start on and off. If You cannot get them out of the connector, a bit tricky, cut them 2" off the connector making it possible to re connect them again. When You disconnected the shift interrupt switc I am not sure You killed the whole stop circuit, the switch only kills one cylinder bank."
 
"Hi Morten,

I believe there

"Hi Morten,

I believe there is five wires in the packard connector. Should, I remove all wires except the yellow/red and white/black, or just disconnect the black/yellow, and tan wires and leave the y/r, w/b, and the 5th wire?

Is it possible to run on 3 cylinders?

I posted earlier, but I'm not sure that I click the post button. I was able to start the engine with full throttle, and it would only stay on with no less than about half throttle. It was running extremely rough though."
 
"After charging my batteries a

"After charging my batteries again today, I was able to get the engine started in full throttle, but in order to keep it on, I had to have about 1/2 throttle. It was running extremely rough. This was using the powerpack from my other engine which has been running fine. Any Ideas?"
 
"As it caught my mind, when on

"As it caught my mind, when once again going through the treads, when You disconnected the shift switch, you did not eliminate all of the stop circuit. What happened when You managed to get it started was it was only running on 3 cylinders, one bank! I do not remember the 5th wire, but I think there is 2 stop wires going in. One for the normal stop, kills all and one for the shift switch, kills 3. What is the color codes of the wires? What is important is not to kill the all black ground!!!!!!!"
 
"Getting ever so frustrated, I

"Getting ever so frustrated, I was unable to get the engine to run at all today. I removed all the pins as Morten suggested without cutting them. The only wires in the packard connector are the yellow/red and black/white. The black/white wire is hooked up to the engine block and yellow/red seems to go to the main engine harness.

On a side note,if the fuel pump vacuum switch is faulty, would it cause the engine not to start? or is it solely to trip the powerpack into slow mode?

I'm about to take a big wrench and unbolt that big white paper weight on the starboard side of my boat."
 
"The vacum switch triggers int

"The vacum switch triggers into the alarm system and should be disconnected.
Do You have spark?
If You have spark, if You have fuel, the engine should fire!
Can You buy/borrow a spark tester?"
 
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