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Volvo 270 leg water tube seals oring replacement

S

schredder

New member
"Greetings,

This is my firs

"Greetings,

This is my first post. I have been searching and searching for a GOOD volvo sterndrive forum.. I think I have finally found it!

On to my question, first my boat's engine starts to run very hot and finally overheated the last couple of outings when the boat is on plane. The first time, I inspected the raw water pump's impeller to find it missing a blade with the blade lodged in the thermostat housing. Well, I thought problem fixed.... No, the next time out with the boat it did the exact same thing.... got hotter and hotter the longer the boat stayed on plane (which depended on the skill of the wakeboarder..haha)

Anyway, to ensure that I have absolutely no air leaks between the drive water inlet and the raw water pump, I am planning on replacing all the o-rings, seals, gaskets, etc. in the water tube assembly located in the intermediate housing.

My clymer shop manual says to remove the drive from the boat to remove the intermediate housing. Are there any short cuts for replacing all these seals, etc for the water tube assembly?

Or, after reading some of the posts on this forum, should I start with replacing the clam shell hose fitting on top of the drive (I do remember the hose connecting on this starting to disintegrate the last time I look at it), S shaped hose, and the suction line to the raw water pump? Also, I have a rebuild kit on the way for my raw water pump.

What if I just re-sealed the lower drive section? Shouldn't this theoretically eliminate any air leaks?

Thanks much,

Chris"
 
"I would start replacing the h

"I would start replacing the hose connector on top of the intermediate housing. You can do that without dismantling the leg, and that hose connector is one of the most common sources of trouble like the one you are experiencing. You can always go further if that does not fix the problem."
 
where is the best place to buy

where is the best place to buy volvo parts..? I assume aftermarket is the way to go for this hose connector?
 
"Or, if you would like to help

"Or, if you would like to help support this site and this board...

Sierra 18-2777

Sierra 18-2778

Volvo application guides are here.


Thanks.
thumbs_up.gif
"
 
Thanks much guys.... where do

Thanks much guys.... where do you purchase OEM volvo stuff... stuff not available aftermarket? I have had good luck with doug russel marine in the past.
 
I try to get my stuff at local

I try to get my stuff at local shops that carry OEM Volvo Penta parts. If you have a shopping list you might have to hit a couple of places to get everything. Hold on to your wallet for the OEM stuff though. These guys are giving you these links because they can save you a lot of time and money on a practically identical part.

I also had the same problem with mine and it was a broken hose connector. It was simple as heck to relace and fairly cheap if I remember right. Good luck!!!
 
"Thought I would post a follow

"Thought I would post a follow-up.... took the boat out two nights ago... same condition, although not as worse. The longer the boat is on plane (hence under load), the hotter the motor gets. Slow down, put her in neutral and give her some throttle, cools down rapidly.

A friend thinks possibly a stuck thermostat, however, the aforementioned procedure does not seem to fit with a stuck thermostat. Too bad I cannot simulate load with the boat not being on plane.

I have replaced the clamshell (mine was severely corroded) hose connector, S- shaped hose, new exhaust bellows (not related). I will say that I am not confident in my install of the rubber gasket for the hose connector.

I think that I made two mistakes. The first, of course the oil in bellows leaked onto the gasket when installing causing the gasket to "squeeze-out" during the tightening of the hose connector flange. Second, I tried to stretch the hole in the gasket (with the lip pointing down) over the outside of the water tube. I am now thinking that I should have just let the lip of the gasket rest on top of the water tube and then when the hose connector is tightened, this lip will form a crush seal? I did notice that with the steering helmet disconnected, the water tube seems to move around some.

Tonight, I plan to simulate “lake” conditions (boat on plane) with the boat on the trailer by using a large tub of water to only cover the lower drive water inlets. We did check raw water pump flow on the lake by removing the raw water pump outlet... she flowed a lot of water!

Sorry the long post!"
 
"Just got done tearing into th

"Just got done tearing into the boat tonight... first replaced the thermostat, then installed clear hose on the outlet of the raw water pump. Submerged the drive in a large tub of water only covering the lower drive water inlets.

Sure enough, the raw water pump will not prime.. pumping major air.

So, removed the clamshell water connector only to find the gasket torn in two places. But, of special importance, I believe I discovered why the water tube moves around inside of the intermediate housing when the drive is moved side to side... I believe the upper pivot bushing is missing in action. I wonder how long this has been gone? How important is this bushing for ensuring an air tight seal at the water connector? I assume it is fairly important because if the water moves within the housing the seal will tear?

How hard is it to replace this bushing? Or there any shortcuts or workarounds? My clymer manual makes it look like not too much fun!

Thanks,"
 
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