Logo
FULL SITE MENU

New Rectifier tests bad

"( Spec says I should get

"( Spec says I should get continuity, and I don't get any.)
Continuity means that the current path is complete, a resistive path still has continuity. A rectifier is made up of "PN" junctions that allow current flow in only one direction. A full wave rectifier is made up of four "PN" junctions arranged so that the sine wave from the charge coil will pass in one direction through the rectifier and then then through the other way when the sine wave is in the opposite polarity. All that to say that if your rectifier has a high resistance it may still be good. It depends on the polarity of the "PN" junction and the polarity of the meter to measure the rectifier accurately. A good "PN" junction will have high resistance in one direction and low resistance on the other direction. Don't forget to check the fuse in the black fuse holder that connects to the output jack.
Nick}"
 
"I don't consider anything

"I don't consider anything above 2 Megaohms to be 'continuous'. Spec says about 1 Kohm... and the two 'new' ones weren't anywhere near that.

I even hooked it up to an AC voltage generator (30 VAC) to see if I could get DC out of it... Got only about .1 V, which is consistant with a 3 Mohm resistance. These things are bad from boats.net.

If anyone has an idea on another source, who will actually test them before they ship them, I'd like to konw."
 
You are going to the charge ci

You are going to the charge circuit Guru by the time this is fixed!!!!!
You are doing all the right tests as far as I can think of. Try giving the Boats.net folks a call and see if they can get you tested unit.
ick
 
"When I ordered the second one

"When I ordered the second one, I asked that it be tested (for spec resistance) prior to shipment.

They told me "they don't have the facilities to do that"."
 
"Hello,

I am the Operation&

"Hello,

I am the Operation's Manager for Boat.Net / OutdoorNetwork LLC. All parts shipped are original OEM. We do in rare cases get defective parts from a manufacturer. Once the customer makes us aware of this, a replacement part is sent out immediately. In this case mentioned above, we did do just that. Unfortunately, the second part was reported defective as well by the customer. We do not test parts the first time they are reported defective as the return rate is less than 1 percent. We did test the second rectifier per Honda Service Manual and it tested good, the resistance and diode test were within specs. In regards, to the rectifier we have only sold this item 3 times within the year and the customer above received it twice. The other customer did not seem to experience any difficulty. These situations do and will occur in the retail side of all operations. We at Boats.net will try to do everything possible to make sure the customer is satisfied when mistakes or a misunderstanding may arise.

If anyone has any further questions, please feel free to contact me directly.

Regards,
Jessica A. Ritch
Operation's Manager
Boats.Net / OutdoorNetwork LLC"
 
"Jessica,
This was not the ex

"Jessica,
This was not the experience I had. You guys did NOT immediately send out a replacement to the first one, when I initially notified you that it was suspect. I had to pay for return shipping, then you just refunded my purchase, and asked that I re-order the part myself. In effect, I payed for shipping four times through the two items, twice for delivery, twice for returns.

Please be honest about your return / defective item policy.

When I asked that you guys test the second one prior to shipping it to me, you guys told me "you don't have that capability".

I will admit, I am shocked that you guys would post on this forum that the second regulator tested fine, without communicating to me, the customer that this was the case. Obviously, as well, you guys do have testing capability, so why was I told that you don't when I requested that the second item be tested prior to shipment (so I could avoid paying for shipping multiple times)?

Hooking up the regulator to my engine, it did not function. My coil is continuous, I get good AC voltage from it.

I'd like to know specifics on the test that you did, what model DMM did you use? What values specifically did you achieve?"
 
"Mr. Austin,

I was unaware

"Mr. Austin,

I was unaware of the problem until another customer inquired about the rectifier and informed us about this thread. I do apologize about some of the wrong information you may have received by a certain customer service representative concerning our testing ability. We do operate a full marina store front with a service department operated by a marine mechanic with over 40 years of experience with Yamaha, Honda and Mercury outboards. As I would like to maintain 100% customer satisfaction, unfortunately, there will be circumstances that arise that I may be unaware of until after the fact. We do sell original OEM products and try to the best of our ability to ensure quality control. I am a very honest person and have been working with the OutdoorNetwork LLC / Boats.Net for 5 years as it is a very respectable owned company. I would be more than happy to hear from you directly concerning this matter so that I may try to assist in any area necessary. Please contact me at [email protected]. Thanks again.

Regards,
Jessica A Ritch
OutdoorNetwork LLC / Boats.net"
 
"I've worked with Jessica

"I've worked with Jessica today, and she took care of the shipping charges for me, and got some info on the tests that they did.

Refunding my shipping charges was unexpected, and it was really cool of them. They seem like a great company to work with. I didn't expect this sort of interaction with an internet company.

She told me that they just did a diode check, and got similar numbers to the ones I posted above.

I double checked my coil. No shorts to ground, and good continuity, .2 on my meter (doesn't go to .oo). With engine running at idle, (didn't want to rev it to WOT, since my kids were just going to bed.), I got around 5 VAC. From what I remember I was getting about 16-17 at WOT.

Then I decided to check the voltage in each section. Checking one blue lead to ground, I got about 1-2 VAC. On the other, I got about 3-4 VAC.

I have no idea what this means, or if it's perfectly normal. But figured it was another measurement to mention.

Thanks ya'll for the help. I will most definintely post the resolution whenever I figure it out."
 
"Check the Charging Coil leads

"Check the Charging Coil leads for a "short-to-ground".

It would seem that getting any current from either coil lead to ground would indicate an electrical path exists from within the coil to ground.

An induction coil should just have one path through the coil to the output leads.

Do test your old Regulator/Diode/Rectifier as well, but it is likely that it is fine and the Charging Coil is what needs replaced.

I would spray some Anti-Corrosion on the Ignition Coil as well while you have the flywheel off. A little corrosion can expand the magnets and corrupt the coils.

Happy to hear of the excellent Customer Service from Boats.net and Best of luck on restoring charging capability.
"
 
"Pilotart,
Checked that. No

"Pilotart,
Checked that. No shorts to ground.

I think it's normal to see voltage between the ground and one of the leads. After all, the coil is putting out AC voltage (i.e a potential above or below ground). Since ground shouldn't change.

I checked for resistance between the coil leads and ground, and got infinite between both leads.

All indications are my coil is good. The old rectifer showed very high continuity as well."
 
"Wanted to close the loop on t

"Wanted to close the loop on this, since I'm sure many others will run into this problem, and it's not intuitive.

It appears I was over engineering, and am guilty of thinking there was a problem when there was one.

In short, there is NO way to test this system, except for connecting to a somewhat discharged battery, and monitoring the voltage on the battery to see if it's charging.

The manual tests are bunk. Do not waste your time with these, you'll only get frustrated and get into an interative loop. The other rectifier checks mentioned in the thread are not reliable. Because the system is 'on demand' it is very specific about voltage levels before the it will even send out any current.

I used my old rectifier on the engine, and we ran the stereo without the motor running for several hours to draw down the battery. Ran the motor for about an hour, and the voltage came back up, indicating it was charging.

Continutity checks, lightbulb checks, attempts at current measurement... none are reliable ways for doublechecking the system

I bought this engine used from a friend, who told me the 'charging loop didn't work'... my fault for believing him. When I went to troubleshoot IAW the manual, I got no indications it was working either, so started troubleshooting and repair.

It wasn't until I gave up, hooked it up to my batteries anyway (more to keep everything watertight than anything) that I realized it WAS working.

With that, after wiring and coil continuity checks for obvious problems with the system, if you suspect a bad regulator, you should hook it up to a 12V battery with about 50%-70% charge (12.06 - 12.32 volts). Run the engine for an hour, and see if the voltage goes up. This is the ONLY way you can determine if your regulator is good or not.

It's important that the battery is not 'dead' (i.e. 7V like the one I tried above) or already fully charged. If there isn't sufficent voltage or there is too much, the regulator will not send current, even though it may be working fine."
 
Back
Top