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1988 Suzuki DT150 issue

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boatmadmaniac

Member
"I have an 88' Suzuki DT15

"I have an 88' Suzuki DT150.

I pulled apart the carbs and cleaned all the components, blew all the jets out and cleaned the fuel pumps. (I never played with any fuel needle screws, i left them as they were) Before I connected the fuel pumps to the carbs I cranked the motor to make sure they were working, and they pumped fine. I connected the motor to the fuel tank and she fired up instantly. It idled beautifuly and when I yanked on the throttle linkage it was very responsive and reved well. But when I slowly accelerate it splutters and coughs abit. almost sounds like a missfire. But it idles fine and revs like mad without missing a beat. I think the fuel is getting to where it should be as when I rev it, it doesnt seam to starve at all. Does anyone know what the problem is perhaps?

Cheers guys."
 
"My Suzuki manual names the ad

"My Suzuki manual names the adjustable needle screw as the "Pilot screw" and the setting for the DT 150 as 1&1/4 - 1&3/4 turns open. Out to rich, in to lean. DT 200 setting is 1&1/2- 2 turns open.
I saw your other question regarding your oil pump; my oil pump is not working on this engine either. The Suzuki shop removed the oil tank and sensor and plugged the oil line with a screw.
This gives you easy access to the carbs and I like the extra room with the tank removed. Thought this might help."
 
"Hi mate

Thanks for that in

"Hi mate

Thanks for that information. I ended up doing the same to my oil system, and your right, there is alot more room now. So, are these pilot screws locted on the side where the oil bottle used to be? how many are there?

Regards
Callum"
 
"You should have 6 Pilot screw

"You should have 6 Pilot screws - 2 per carb, 1 on each side. It is the brass screw closest to the intake and the only screw that adjusts. The other brass screw on each side is the Pilot Jet, 6 of these, 1 for each cylinder and they screw in until they seat - no adjustment. In another thread Just-In-Time noted that the sneeze these engines make is a "lean sneeze". I'm thinking with a lean sneeze the Pilot screw needs to be turned open."
 
"Check out the "Suzuki DT

"Check out the "Suzuki DT 40 Carb Settings" thread about 3 threads down. My 200 periodically will idle rough, will not idle without me raising idle speed and coughs or sneezes and dies. When you get your 150 running, at idle it may cough or sneeze and die, this happens with my engine and I'm trying to iron out this issue. I tried to clean a dirty fuel tank with filters and am paying for it with dirty carb syndrome (I can take off the carbs in 3 minutes. Anyway, got my tank cleaned this weekend and carbs cleaned and ready to try it again."
 
You might ask Just-In-Time for

You might ask Just-In-Time for more info by starting another thread - I'm just a DIY with a Suzuki manual. Good Luck.
 
"I appreciate your time.

Yo

"I appreciate your time.

Youve helped alot. One last question, what ratio are you running now that your running you motor on pre-mix?"
 
"Callum,

I mixing at 50:1 r

"Callum,

I mixing at 50:1 ratio. I haven't burned 40 gallons since August - kept having driveability problems with the engine. I've changed my water separator 4 times and cleaned carbs 3 times. I believe that the problems were all caused by the dirty tank.

Another tip for you is if you are idleing and give the engine throttle to get up on plane and the engine bogs and dies, try pushing in the key (choke switch)just before and as you throttle up. If the engine gains rpm its a fuel starvation condition as the engine goes from idle to low speed to midrange circuit (clogged carb passages). This helped me get back to landing as my engine would run fine at high speeds."
 
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