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No spark 81 90hp evin new coils power packs timer base and stator

weasel

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"lots of new parts, but no spa

"lots of new parts, but no spark, have manual, no help. put on new power packs, 4 new coils, timer base and stator, did ingnition switch test, no difference, could a bad rectifier/regulator be the cause? trace all wiring, no shorts or broken wires. maybe time to take boat to the dealer for repairs. bought all the parts off the web site here, even swapped old parts back one at a time in case i got a bad new part. about ready to light on fire and give it a viking funeral"
 
"reg/rect,has nothing to do w/

"reg/rect,has nothing to do w/ign system.disc RED big plug at eng and crank,checking for spark."
 
"disconnected big red plug&#40

"disconnected big red plug(main engine harness), cranked motor over still no spark (held on to one of the coils, wuold be happy to get a shock)"
 
"the only other thing i can th

"the only other thing i can think of,is a SEVERELY corroded flywheel magnet areas...i sure would ck to make sure your timer base sensor wires,as well as all others,are matched properly.ck all the plug in connections.are u using a SPARK TESTER..?make SURE u r cranking fast(weak batt?),w/plugs OUT."
 
"tom,on each pwr pack,is a blk

"tom,on each pwr pack,is a blk/yellow wire---DISC that wire,out of both packs,re-test...make sure your ground wire for each pack is on a clean ground connection."
 
"First thing to do!

Make su


"First thing to do!

Make sure your "kill" switch is closed when the clip is installed.. If that switch is open u can crank all day and never get a spark!

Then make sure your neutral start switch is closed..Usually located inside your control box, but you can check where the wires are connected into your key switch."
 
"checked blk and yellow wires

"checked blk and yellow wires out of each pack they are only grouned when the key is off, tried cranking with them disconnected. still no spark.

original problem; ramn boat all day with no problem (that day we used up two tanks of gas with out any problems, ran twenty miles 3/4 throttle), backed it down when we got close to ramp. motor died, last breath it took. nothing out of the ordinary."
 
"ok......next would be an elec

"ok......next would be an electrical analysis of each component..u can go to cdi.com and get all the specs u need by going to downloads...u will need an ohmmeter and a spark tester,not a spark plug,or other non ign testing method."
 
"back at it again, got some sp

"back at it again, got some spark out of starboard side, then got weak, went away, came back, then weak again. checked all connectors, ohm tested stator and timimg base, put known good powerpack on port side no spark, yellow wires on stator go to board, yellow and the yellow and gray wires draw power though rectifier(little triangle thing) ohm tested it yellow to ground(only one way both wires)and yellow to red(one way ylw/gry to red, both ways ylw to red) could this be my problem not giving the stator enough voltage to start working?"
 
"no,your rectifier,has nothing

"no,your rectifier,has nothing to do w/spark,just charging sys.........there is nothing between,...the bolt areas,on stator is there,like a gasket or sealer etc....it has to be grounded to top of powerhead."
 
"so what you are saying is tha

"so what you are saying is that if I unhook the yellow stator wires from the rectifier it will still send power to the power packs? as an auto mechanic for 20 years I know that the charging system needs power to start working, after that it takes care of itself, providing enough power to charge batteries and run the engine. so my question to you is should i have voltage at the the screw terminals for the stator wires, my motor has seperate reg and rect. only have power on one side of the regulator and no voltage at the screw terminals, the gray wire negitive one screw down and looped to the screw above it (rect and stator wire) is a ground with key on, next screw down red wire and purple regulator has power 12v, yellow wire coming out of the regulator has no power and goes to top screw terminal along with the other stator wire? How can the stator work without some power? only have a max of 90v max at the bwn wires, supossed to be 150, tried two differnt stators, same result. cleaned all grounds, checked all wires, charged battery, replaced battery cables, had to get a new starter, burned up old one trying to fix motor. checked four wire leads for trigger, had signal. ohm tested everything only thing found was the rectifier, tested both directions? so what next any sugesstions? and yes stator has clean metal under it to ground to, cleaned it and made sure bolts were tight, checked voltage thought the base."
 
"if you want to test your rec

"if you want to test your rec heres a test by joe reeves

Small Rectifier Test, by Joe Reeves
Perhaps your engine does not have the water cooled regulator/rectifer but rather incorporates the smaller 3 wire rectifier which sits just forward of a vertical electrical strip on the starboard side of the engine.

If so, a failed rectifier would knock out the tachometer. See the following.



Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a fourth yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.

Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.

Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.

Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier assy immediately.


and heres a link to the wiring color code



http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/wireColorCode.html

your gray wire is for the tach, but the reg/rec will not keep it from running........mine was unhooked for a couple of ifshing trips while i waited on a new one."
 
"it sounds as tho u do need a

"it sounds as tho u do need a rectifier,.......but,what i'm trying to tell u is,..you have an IGNITION problem,...and it is not related to the charging system."
 
"u still have red plug disc?--

"u still have red plug disc?---if not,...leave it disc,until this is fixed,to eliminate problems.,we can safely assume,its not packs or coils,....(be sure coils are grounded good)...so i would stick old stator back on and try and then,old timer base...KEEP BATT CHGER ON BATT to help w/cranking speed,and starter."
 
someone correct me if i am wro

someone correct me if i am wrong.the flywheel contains magnets which supplies energy to stator windings and rectifier converts to dc.[doesnt need ign power] magnets also supply energy to charge coil on stator which supply voltage to power pack for ign.also supplies voltage to power coil for other ign. functions has test been done on charge and power coils.
 
"I have done all the tests on

"I have done all the tests on the stator and timer base, all tests show these parts as good. I've tried two different stators and two different timer bases, three different power packs, and two coils. I've inspected flywheel magnets and all look good and are clean. I have a rectifier coming and will try that.(2nd to last part on total rebuild, only voltage reg left)"
 
"[b]I have done <u>all the tes

"I have done <u>all the tests</u> on the stator and timer base, all tests show these parts as good.

Hummm. If you've done all the tests then you've done the: Charge coil output test and the Charge coil short to ground test. Also the: Sensor output test and the Sensor short to ground test. What were the voltage readings? If the only tests you performed were for resistance you are lacking in your trouble shooting.

got some spark out of starboard side, then got weak, went away, came back, then weak again.

The above symptom is indicative of a coil (and I don't mean the high tension coils) breaking down under load.

jwbmarine is correct. The rect is not going to bring back spark.

Just my two cents worth."
 
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