35 Nissan 4 stroke 2006

[knapeone]

"My 2006 Nissan 3.5 4 stroke idles poorly and stalls when shifting. I have to use the choke or rev it up before shifting to keep from stalling. Once in gear it will not come back to idle without stalling. What should I check for?
I would like to fix it myself. Others tell me its a carb issue. I noticed Clymer Nissan manual is current only to year 2000. If I buy this manual will it cover a 2006 4 stroke 3.5.

Any help appreciated. Is there any chance this is covered under warranty.

Thanks

Jim Knape"

[tguy]

"sounds like the idle just needs to be adjusted. Unfortunately because of EPA emission regs, mfg's. have to put a "plug" over the screw to keep you from adjusting it (gov't wisdom at work here). So before you can adjust the idle, you'll have to drill out the plug/cap that covers it up.

Most likely this would not be considered a warranty issue since the selling dealer should have checked/adjusted this for you (unless of course you bought it on-line in which case the selling dealer probably didn't/couldn't do this).

The Cylmer manual is for 2-strokes so it wouldn't do you any good at all.

You might want to purchase the service manual that covers your motor. You can buy them through your local dealer or online at www.internetoutboards.com"

[knapeone]

"I did try adjusting the idle speed by turning a scew on the outside of the carb. In nuetral I could keep the engine idleing by tightening this screw a half turn or so, but it really did not result in a consistant idle speed it just kept the engine at a fast idle so it would not stall, same thing as holding the throttle handle slightly open by hand. As soon as shifting into gear the engine drops in rpm and wants to stall unless I am quick at throttling up right away.

Any other ideas?"

[roederll]

"Check spark plugs. If they have any residue on them replace them, i know its a 4 stroke but it wouldn't hurt to look at them to see if theres something wrong elsewhere."

[tohatsu_guru]

"You probably have a dirty carburetor. The cure is to have it taken apart and cleaned. Dirty carburetors are never covered under warranty as they get dirty as result of:

Contaminated fuel---Consumers fault
Old fuel-------------Consumers fault
Not running the
carb dry after use---Consumers fault
Evaporation---------Consumers fault

There is no aftermarket manual available for this type of engine. Any Nissan, Tohatsu or Mercury dealer will have the correct manual."

[ghayman]

"Tohatsu Guru, No disrepect intended but why run the carb dry when it is not sugggested in the owners manual under maintenance after each use,just for seasonal storage. Thanks"

[tohatsu_guru]

"In a perfect world, using your engine on a daily or weekend basis, you wouldn't need to, so they don't tell you to. But, this is an imperfect world. One week won't make a difference, two weeks probably won't make a difference, three weeks might make a difference and four weeks will make a difference. Usually you will know you plan to use the boat next weekend...Then something comes up and it's now two months later before you get back to the water. It's just a good preventive measure to run the fuel dry with each use. I have customers who never run their engines dry and go two or three years between carb rebuilds...Good for them. But they are lucky. Most people on web forums are unlucky or they wouldn't be here to begin with. Soooooo, spend the 4 minutes to run it dry and avoid the frequent fuel system issues. *On a side note. Tohatsu recommends the use of fuel stabilizer and keeping the carb full of fuel. Their theory does not take into account that the fuel will still evaporate leaving petrol syrup. Hence they are wrong to suggest it's use[img][/img]

Also, there are things that are and aren't put in the owners manual because of the static nature of print. IE. No one thought of it in Japan, no one from Japan consulted anyone outside of Japan and by then it's too late. Case in point:

Synthetic oil

It doesn't say anything about it in your manual, but if you look on Tohatsu's website you will see a note saying "do not use synthetic oil". Actually it says "we do not recommend synthetic oil"....Regardless, think of your owners manual as a guide of good ideas rather than as biblical dogma[img][/img]"

[ghayman]

"Thank you for your answer,that clears it up thanks"

[knapeone]

"Hi Tohatsu Guru

A few questions. I got the manual today to help me clean my carb on the 3.5 4 stroke. It simply says to clean carb body with a cleaning fluid. What fluid are they taliking about, there are many choices, is it mineral spirits, an acid or that aresol carb cleaner on Walmarts shelf??

second question, A friend says stabil works by forming a wax layer on top of gasoline and keeps it from evaporating, Is this true? If so should I always use it on a 3.5. Cost would not be an issue

Thanks

JK"

[tohatsu_guru]

""They" want you to use any spray carburetor cleaner. That's because "they" want you to use something that is very mild and can't hurt anything...It's so mild it's useless. Carburetor cleaner is what we use and it comes in a one gallon pail and is available from your local auto parts store. Just soak your metal bits for three hours and your problem will be solved. Do not soak any rubber or plastic bits or they will dissolve.

As I loathe all fuel stabilizers as a complete waste of money it's hard to recommend one. But, Stabil appears to have a loyal following(I have no idea why or how as I refuse to use stabilizers) and if you are just so set on keeping fuel around by all means use that one. Honestly though, if cost is not an issue, why in the world do you want to keep old gas? Use your old fuel in your car and by fresh, young, clean, newly formulated and recently arrived at your local station, gas."

[knapeone]

"Guru

I am just now getting to cleaning the carb on the 3.5. Winter project, too much snow to go boating.

You reccomended cleaning carb in a dip cleaner. It says no plastic or rubber parts on the can. There are three plastic parts that I am concerned with messing up as I take them off.

1. The choke, it appears to be snapped into place not sure how to remove it with out breaking it???

2. the throttle shaft, looks as if I have to remove the two screws that hold the metal butterfy plate in place first, then a screw on top that holds a flange down, then just lift shaft out. Is this the correct way.

3. Gasket on bowl. it looks like rubber and is embedded into the bowl. Will this simply lift out, I am afraid of damageing it. I could simply cleam the bowl with a spray cleaner and avoid having to touch this gasket. what's your advice

Thanks

Jim Knape"

[tohatsu_guru]

1) You remove the choke cable as you take the carb off of the engine...The only thing holding it into place is the angle.

2) You don't remove the butterfly.

3) The gasket lifts off...They use a glue at the factory to hold the o-ring/gasket in place...Just drag a paper towel along the o-ring/gasket to clean it off.

[ghayman]

"Guru, Does this mean that you dont need to remove the choke butterfly or the throttle plastic parts ? Thanks"

[tohatsu_guru]

Correct...The butterfly will get just as clean attached to the body. Plastic parts should be removed if and only if they are designed to come off the carb easily. Anything that is swagged on needs to be left alone. Rubber parts have to come off or they will swell or dissolve.

[knapeone]

"Guru

Thanks again.

It sure looks to me that the choke butterfly could be broken if I attempt to pry it out of the body, so since you say its OK to dip it I will.

The throttle butterfly is metal but its attached to a plastic shaft which which may have a plastic bushing , but it looks like hard plastic same as the choke butterfly, so I am planning to leave it as is and dip away. It just does not look like it is intended to be removed easiy.

I guesss the worst of it would be to have to buy a whole new carb as I doubt Nissan sells replacements plastic parts???

Full Sails

Jim Knape"

[tohatsu_guru]

"There is no need to remove the butterfly. Most of the carb is sold only as a complete carburetor. The exception being the float, needle, etc."