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Winterizing 2001 Merc 15hp 4stroke

john_arthur

New member
"I think I know how to change

"I think I know how to change oil and filter, but not sure about fogging, whether I should do it, and how to do it. Any help appreciated..."
 
"The idea of fogging is to coa

"The idea of fogging is to coat the insides with an oil film. This prevents corrosion, especially in damp climates where you will get condensation.
It is a very easy process. I am assuming you are very new at this, & I will write accordingly. Please don't take offence if I assumed wrongly!
First decision is wether or not you will leave gas in the tank. If YES, buy a bottle of fuel stabilser & add it to the fuel, in the prescribed dosage. Then run your engine long enough to ensure that fuel with the stabiliser has been pulled up into the carb.
While you are at the auto store buy a spray bottle of ENGINE FOGGING OIL. Diferent manufacturers call it different names, but if you ask for storage spray, or fogging oil they will sell you the right stuff. One can should be good for 3 years on those small engines.
If you are going to leave the engine without fuel, run it & dissconnect the fuel line, then time it to see how long it takes to die from lack of fuel. Remove cowl, reconnect the fuel line & restart engine. You only need to spray the fogging oil into the intake of the carb for about 10-15 seconds, so unplug the fuel line again & start spraying 10-15 seconds before you expect the engine to die. It will smoke like Hell once it starts burning the oil. Directions on the can may say to spray untill it kills the engine, but normally the engine will eat it & keep running, so you will have to hit the kill switch yourself after it has smoked for 10 seconds or so. That is all there is to it.
Run engine, spray foging oil (use little tube supplied to direct it right into the throat of carb) the manually kill engine. Stop spraying as engine dies. When you restart next spring it will smoke for a bit til it burns the oil off.
If you want to do this at home, buy a cheap set of "ears or "muffs" in order to connect your garden hose to the "ears". Make sure the ears cover the water intake holes on the lower portion of the leg. Do NOT run your engine, even for a minute without a water supply, you will screw the impellor that pumps water through the engine. If you don't want to do it a home, you can do the same procedure at the lake. Don't tie up the boat ramp, just run it at the dock with the cowl off & fog it just before you pull it out of the water for the last time.
Once you get it home it is a good idea to drain the leg oil & replace it. Make sure the engine sits vertical for a bit so all the water drains from the leg. This will prevent damgae if you are in an area that freezes. I live in Canada & freezing can be a big deal. Normaly this is more an issue with I/O, outboards tend to fully drain without any help.
Hope this was useful to you, enjoy boating."
 
"A few more tips in order to k

"A few more tips in order to keep you engine trouble free for many years. Read the portion of the manual that came with your engine about end of season or yearly maintenance. If you don't have a manual get your dealer to get one, look one up on the internet, or buy a shop manual. There are a few easily accomplished tasks that should be done at the end of each season.
Engines are expensive, & $5 in prevention will save you hundreds of $$ in cures. Most of the engines that die or otherwise strand boaters did so from lack of even basic care.
Most gas now has ethanol, it absorbs water & statifies. Burn you last batch of fuel using something like Shell V-Power, or any other high end fuel that has no ethanol content. With a 15 hp engine, I doubt you have much gas on hand, burn the last tank with no ehtanol, then dump the remaining in your car & use it. Store the tank inside,(empty)then refill with freah fuel come spring. This will eliminate many problems."
 
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