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Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    jerrywane's Avatar
    jerrywane Guest

    Default "Have a 1980 model Johnson 70h

    "Have a 1980 model Johnson 70hp. It starts right up and runs for a minute or two then just dies. Will restart back up after letting it set again but does the same thing. NOt fuel related dies, just shuts off like you turn the key off. Never had any problems before? Anyone know what would cause it to die after warming up? Any help would be greatful!"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Auckland New Zealand
    Posts
    145

    Default "Sounds like a powerpack or co

    "Sounds like a powerpack or coil issue...when an engine dies like this it is always either fuel or sparks.

    I would also not rule out fuel, there may be a partial blockage into the float bowl that means the fuel is being used up quicker than it goes in.

    Try pumping the fuel bulb and see if that keeps it running...this is the first test I perform whenever an outboard has this problem."

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Batavia, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    6

    Default "I would run a test on that fu

    "I would run a test on that fuel pump to make sure its not sucking air. Just had a similar problem and it was the fuel pump. Also you could put her on muffs, just start it and let it run to see if you are losing spark. Be nice to have mulitiple spark testers on so you could see which cylinders, if any are losing spark when it dies. If you are not losing spark then its most likely fuel related. Or you could heat up the power pack or the coils with a blowdryer, if you get an instant failure when heating up a component, you more than likely have found your problem."

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Central West Florida
    Posts
    11,934

    Default "Disconnect the black/yellow w

    "Disconnect the black/yellow wire from the powerpack. With engine NOT running but key in ON position. Check to see if there's any voltage being applied to that black/yellow wire.

    Even a microvolt is enough to damage the powerpack.

    If no voltage is present, leave that wire disconnected and try the engine again. If the problem ceases to exist, the ignition switch is usually the cause (shorted intermitently).

    To test the switch, connect that wire back to the powerpack, then disconnect that same color wire from the ignition switch. If the engine runns okay, replace the switch.

    When time permits, visit my store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-John...tc?refid=store"
    Our questions require answers. If you refuse to answer our questions, how can we answer yours?

  5. #5
    jerrywayne's Avatar
    jerrywayne Guest

    Default "Thanks for the info guys. I d

    "Thanks for the info guys. I disconnected the b/y wire and tested to see if there was any volts to that wire. In the key in off position it had none. In the on position it has about .5volts to the wire. I started motor w/out b/y wire attached and it ran ,but ran really bad and smoked bad?? Maybe when the wire was attached to the powerpack and the volts were present, I probally ruined the powerpack and now the spark is not sparking as strong as it should causing the motor to run ritch and smoke?? Am I way off? Im replacing ing switch now. Should I get new powerpack too?"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Central West Florida
    Posts
    11,934

    Default "If with the spark plugs remov

    "If with the spark plugs removed, you have spark on all cylinders that will jump a 7/16" gap, consider the powerpack okay.

    It's just possible that the cylinders are loaded with fuel due to the voltage problem at that wire.

    Also check to make sure that the choke butterflies haven't been set to the closed position by mistake."
    Our questions require answers. If you refuse to answer our questions, how can we answer yours?

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