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Honda 50 idle amp load problem

T

tedm

New member
"I have twin 1995 Honda 50 hp

"I have twin 1995 Honda 50 hp motors with the port side starting up fine and idle. When I run it for about 15 minutes under load and I stop (idle), it idles fine for about a minute then the idle drops and it dies. It has a hard time starting, and when I finally get it started and when I put it in gear it dies. I will have to start it and try putting it into gear several times, and once I get it going it runs fine under load until I stop again. I cleaned out the carburetor & jets and have a new fuel pump. I don’t think it’s a fuel problem because I tried pumping the fuel line bulb when it couldn’t start and there wasn’t any difference. I'm thinking that it may be the computer that is going bad. Can you help me?"
 
"If I were to work on this pro

"If I were to work on this problem I think I'd start by looking for a vaccum leak - hose, carb, etc. fittings."
 
I did sync the carbs on both e

I did sync the carbs on both engines the old way and I know that It's not the sync because I've been taking apart and sync these carbs many times and did the same for my friends motors since the ethynol has been in use. I'm begining to think that it's a electrical problem because this happens only when the engine is warm. Also FYI- the engines run fine when I flush it with a hose.
 
"Yep, I followed the manual an

"Yep, I followed the manual and have been cleaning and sync these carbs and had no problems. I also changed all the fuel fittings, and filters. I recently put in a new cylinder head and am still having the same problem. I changed the head because the bottom cylinder was clogged with salt build-up. I also changed the charge coil and rectifier because my battery would die if I didn't use it for more than 2 weeks and the techometer wasn't working. I found that the rectifier was melted, I figured it was because it was located near the bottom cylinder on the front of the block where that cylinder was running hot. Any clues? I'm going to try and change the CDI cause I have one available."
 
"Yeh, I'll do that. Thanks

"Yeh, I'll do that. Thanks for the info. I was hoping there was someone out there that had a similar problem before."
 
"Just for grins, try swapping

"Just for grins, try swapping the fuel lines between the two motors. You might have a slight cut in the o-ring at the fuel quick connect, allowing air to be sucked into the fuel line. Worth a try!
Nick"
 
I did change the fuel line con

I did change the fuel line connectors at the motor on both engines because one of them had broken o-ring and I thought that was the problem. But I'm still having the same problem.
 
I would still try and swap the

I would still try and swap the fuel lines and see if it makes any difference.
Nick
 
"Thanks Nick, but I already di

"Thanks Nick, but I already did and have same problems. I really appreciate the trouble shooting advice and hope I'll come accross one that I never did."
 
"Hey guys - FYI - I found that

"Hey guys - FYI - I found that the problem was indeed electronic. I traced it to a cracked Pulser coil. I swaped the 3 ingnition coils first and had the same problem, then I decided to swap the pulser coils and found the problem. Anyway thanks guys for your thoughts."
 
"Hey guys, this is the same pr

"Hey guys, this is the same problem I'm having since last year. After changing all the fuel lines and vaccum line, ignition coil, charge & exciter coil, pulser coil, CDI, spakplugs, I'm having the same problem-stalling under load when hot, does well when cold. I ran it in the dark and found the plugs leaking spark. It's a new ignition coil and wires. My question is what will cause the spark plug and wires to be leaking. Thought I might have a grounding problem or anyone can tell me what is the electrical sequence for getting spark to the spark plugs."
 
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