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1977 Sears Gamefisher Eska 99 wonbt accelerate when in gear

g3joe

New member
"To no one in particular:

I


"To no one in particular:

I've pretty much given up hope on this motor.

It's a 1977 9.9 Eska/Sears Gamefisher. I've got this motor pumping water with a new water pump, it's starting and idling fine. It just won't accelerate when it's in gear. It's an interesting problem.....The motor won't plane off/accelerate unless I move way forward in the boat, as I move forward in the boat, I begin to pick up just a little bit of speed, then all of a sudden, it's like the high speed jet kicks in and off we go like a scalded dog. It does about 15-20 MPH. I can even slow down a little bit, but as soon as it comes off the "high speed" jet, it just starts bogging again. When the engine is in neutral, it will wind up like a raped ape, but as soon as it goes in gear, it just kinda bogs again. I've rebuilt the carb as per the factory manual, the fuel pump is new, the bulb is new, but in that factory manual, (brix) nowhere is there any info about how many turns of the low speed needle or setting the height of the idle screw. I've adjusted the float as per the brix manual as well.

The settings I used for the low speed (idle) needle are 1.5 turns out from gently bottomed all the way in. The manual says that the main (high speed) jet is fixed. WHich it is, so no actual adjustment can be made. I adjusted the "stop needle" on top of the carb to where it will evenly idle. Which it does..

I'm at a loss....

Is there a two stroke outboard guru out there who can help me?"
 
"The idle needle should be abo

"The idle needle should be about 1 turn out from seated according to the service manual. I have a similar outboard as you (a 1975). I had a severe mid-range miss on it once upon a time that was not solved by carburetor adjustments. I had an ignition problem that was causing it. I was able to scavenge the part from a doner Gamefisher. It was the spark advance assembly, a small round plastic piece with magnets in it under the flywheel. On mine I noticed one of the magnets was out of place. The glue that held it into place must have let go.
I don't know if this could be related to your problem or not, but is something to think about."
 
"Wayne,

A timing issue. Th


"Wayne,

A timing issue. That hadn't occured to me. I'll have to dig out the manual. I seem to remember that I needed some funky special tool to time this motor.

I'll check it out."
 
"J--

the tool you probably


"J--

the tool you probably need to time it is just a simple dial indicator gauge, avail at harbor fright or elsewhere for cheap...i think <$10 at the fright when it's on sale. you may need to make adaptor to mount in plug hole out of old spark plug with porcelain knocked out & ground electrode removed, maybe add setscrew to clamp indicator.

many old 2 strokes, OBs or bikes, are timed based on piston crown distance below TDC rather than in terms of degrees BTDC...so you zero the dial indicator at TDC and rotate engine forward (so as to avoid hashing WP impeller) until it's back up to specified distance below TDC."
 
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