INTERNAL Wiring Harness

"Can anyone tell me if I can g

"Can anyone tell me if I can get an internal wiring harness for my outboard MARINER SN:3947957/inline 6cyl/yr is mid 70's and pretty sure it is 115hp(150SS?). I am hesitant to pull it(internal harness connector) out to look for a part #, mainly due to previous owner spicing ALOT of red wires to it. I saw something about CDI making replacements, but it refernces part#'s and I am afraid to destory it and find out nothing can replace it."

I registered so now I am logge

I registered so now I am logged in as a memeber instead of the above listed visitor.

"I started getting shifty, so

"I started getting shifty, so I just labeled every wire and took pictures for reference and ripped it out! I found the internal wiring harness was 84-69236 and CDI has a direct replacement for it. If you read this thanks for giving it a chance."

"Dan, Try Surplusunlimited.com

"Dan, Try Surplusunlimited.com They had a good price on the wiring harness for that motor.

BTW- a 150ss is a short shaft 150HP motor. They are pretty rare and might be worth something. They sometimes had louvered cowlings"

"I looked my motor up and foun

"I looked my motor up and found it was either a 150ss inline (115hp) or 1500 inline (150hp). Both of those fall under my serial# of 3947957, but was wondering if you had any other characteristics of either one of those. There are 3 carbs on it and they look to be 2bbl rather than 4bbl, but I am going by quickly glancing and seeing the size of them. I AM NOT familiar with outboard engines at all and any info would be greatly appreciated!! "

"Hey Chris, do you have the co

"Hey Chris, do you have the code number for the harness on that website? Everything I search for comes up with nothing."

"Dan, The 1500 is a long shaft

"Dan, The 1500 is a long shaft (20") the 150SS is a shortshaft (15"). You can measure from the transom clamp to the antiventilation plate to see which one you have. You might match up your block part number on the Crowleymarine.com site to the '74 1500 and the '74 115 and see if you get any matches.

The harness looks to be P/N 3358. As you can see it covers a whole bunch of mercs. Since you have a distributor, the orange wire is unused."

"Thanks, I was able to order t

"Thanks, I was able to order the harness and it will be here on Monday. After getting the Seloc manual yesterday, I was able to identify alot more and I noticed the wires coming out of the "Trigger Assembly" on the distributor are frayed pretty bad and I was wondering if replacing that would need to be done by a professional? There looks like there are alot of parts needing to be removed in order to get swap it out for a new one. I thought about just replacing the whole distributor assembly, but I haven't had a chance to look up prices yet."

"Dan, New distributor assembil

"Dan, New distributor assembiles are pretty pricy($400+), if you can get one. If you buy a used one it is still at least 31 years old. I recommend you use some butt connectors and solder on some new wires. use some good rosin-core flux and about a 60 Watt soldering iron. Add some shrink tube over the butt connectors, and you should be good."

"Thanks Chris,

Unfortunatel

"Thanks Chris,

Unfortunately, that was already done at some point and they didn't use any sort of weatherizing method. I might pull it apart and try to interconnect another set of wires with just soldering and then heat shrink in order for it to pass through the hole on the side of the distributor top. I also have the issue of NO KEYS, so I have to take care of that today as well!! I was able to put the new INTERNAL harness in last night and was a little puzzled with what I have for an engine. As far as serial # it was looking to be a 1974 1150 or 1500, but all the ignition parts and layout had it as a 1976-1978 1150 or 1500 6cyl.
The only reasons I am going through these hassles are because it was my father-in-laws boat and I wanted to learn something new. I need to go and find a replacement ignition switch and then hopefully fire this up after a year of sitting...we'll see!
Thanks for all your help!!"

"Dan, There is no difference i

"Dan, There is no difference in any of the distributor ignitions, switchboxes, ignition coils, etc. for the '70-'77 inline sixes. The older motors had large red coils, and rectifiers, but these can easily be replaced by the newer metal jacket coils and black rectifiers. The 1500 and 1150 blocks were different, depending on the year, but everything else is common to the ignition style (Distributor CDI or ADI).

There should be a part number on the block. You can get on Crowleymarine.com website and look up the parts list for the '74 1500 and see if it matches. If there is a part number on the transfer covers, that may also differentiate between the 1500 and 1150"

"Here is what I have come acro

"Here is what I have come across looking at the flow charts in the SELOC manual:

Picture for 70-78: Going from the engine harness to the Switch Box Assembly the BROWN(looks like the wire supplying the Tachometer connector on the MercControl with some sort of feed) is going to the second from the top terminal on the SBA.

Picture for the 76-78: The BROWN wire goes directly to the RECTIFIER and the terminal on the SBA is left unused.

Now with that being said, all the style and shape of the components points me to use the 76-78 configuration. I had taken some pictures and labeled wires before disconnecting the old harness and it was wired using the 76-78 picture. I just saw the difference and thought it might be a step closer knowing exactly what I am working with. I had verified the SN on the block and it came up with a 1150 or 1500. The serial fell under both of them. I thought maybe the carbs would be different, but I can't do a lookup using the part number stamped on them and get any info.

Right now, I am trying to get the key switch figured out. I wouldn't think this would be as difficult as it is presenting right now, but it looks like the key ignition has been replaced before and has no rhyme or reason the way it is wired up. Obviously it worked with this setup, because it was in the water last year."

"Dan, the brown wire was moved

"Dan, the brown wire was moved from the switchbox to the rectifier, in the early 70s.

The wiring should be: Yellow is starter solenoid on ign switch, grey is choke solenoid from choke button, brown is tach sender to three wire connector on MerControl, black is ground on Ign switch, red is +12V on Ign switch, white is +12V ignition switch to switch box, Orange(kinda salmon color) is grounded by ign switch by connecting it to black in the off position.

Hope this helps. You might find a wiring diagram on teh Maxrules website."

"Boss, you are a good luck cha

"Boss, you are a good luck charm or something!! I got a call about 7 this morning from a family member telling me they had the keys and fish finder! I just got back and you had sent this! I am going to route the brown to the rectifier, dbl check my setup and fire her up sometime today. Feel free to send a reply stating it will work fine and my carbs won't be gummed up!"

"Dan, Heres hoping the carbs a

"Dan, Heres hoping the carbs are clean, and the igniton is hot!"

"I was able to try it last nig

"I was able to try it last night and it fired up and ran fine first try!! I was wondering how to find the exact fuel mixture for this engine. I put 16oz of oil in with right about 6 gallons of gas. It ran fine for about 5 minutes and then I turned it off. I heard of people having problems with the engine running fine out of water, but when they put it in the water and try to go it can bog down due to the wrong mixture and putting an RPM load on the engine. I think my mixture is good, but just figured I'd ask you since you've been so helpful with my other questions!"

"Dan, The gas-oil mixture is c

"Dan, The gas-oil mixture is correct. Try it in the water. The idle RPM in the water should be a maximum of about 900-1100, in neutral. Lower is better. Warm up the motor and see if it will shift into forward and accelerate w/o stalling or bogging. if so, it sounds like you are good to go. Run it for a while and check the plugs for correct color. You want medium to dark brown. white is too lean or hot, black is too rich or cold."

"Hey Chris,

Thanks for the

"Hey Chris,

Thanks for the info and I am currently out of town working, but when I get back home I will do as you mentioned. I need to replace the tachometer(surprise,surprise)and I know I've seen the ones that can be plugged into the MercControl, but I CAN'T find them online. I've checked all the websites in my favorites and am starting to wonder if I saw it in a catalog or something. If you have any websites or suggestions feel free to pass them on whenever you have time. THANKS AGAIN for all your knowledge and help!"

"Dan, That motor can use a sta

"Dan, That motor can use a standard aftermarket tach. The brown wire that runs to the tach, via the three prong connector on the MerControl, will need to be moved from the switchbox to one of the rectifier AC poles, if it is not connected there already.

If you need the molded 3 prong female connector for the mercontrol's male connector, you might try a dealer. I have not seen them aftermarket."

"Hi Dan,try oldmercs.com for t

"Hi Dan,try oldmercs.com for the the merccontrol wire plug. I got one of the thunderbolt ignition tachs on ebay,mind you that was last year.As Chris says standard aftermarket will work.
PS Be sure the wires are correct,I didn't,wires had been put back wrong sometime,fried tach,€80"