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2thepoint

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"I will start off with a descr

"I will start off with a description of the problem. The 3.0 runs great for the first 3 to 5 minutes but once the motor gets warm I start to have trouble. When cruising at 3800 rpm with the motor warm it starts to miss (SOUNDS LIKE AN ELECTRONIC MISS BUT I AM NOT 100% SURE) and it drops rpm. Sometimes you can get back in the throttle and other times you can't. Usaully you can cruise at under 2700 rpm no problems but it cuts out there once and awhile also.

1. The choke is not sticking on. I have ran without the arrestor to check.

2. I have tried unplugging the ESA for the shift cables ( not sure if that is the spelling)

3. I have new fuel filters in the pump and the carb.

4. I have new points, condenser and the other parts near them in the distributor. new coil, new cap, new wires, new plugs.

5. The timing is right.


What am I missing... This is drivng me nuts... Any thoughts would be great."
 
"Need to try and narrow it dow

"Need to try and narrow it down to fuel or electric. You've changed the filters but you should also check the anti-syphon valve. This is where the fuel line to the engine is attached at the tank. It's basically a check valve, spring loaded ball. Can build up enough crap in there that the fuel pump can't overcome especially at higher speeds. Also pull out the fuel pickup tube, some have screens over them and get clogged much like a filter, last thing fuel related is the fuel tank vent line, could be kinked or plugged at the end or you can eliminate all this by running with a small portable tank."
 
Bob-

I have 2 gas tanks on

Bob-

I have 2 gas tanks on the boat with a switch in the dog house to select the tank to use. I don't know where my anti-syphon valve is . I have a clear line off the fuel pump to the carb and metal line to the carb.

I dont see a check valve in either one.



I had a similar problem earlier this year with the exact same symptoms and changing the fuel filter on the pump fixed it. But not so lucky this time.
 
"Chris...the clear line from t

"Chris...the clear line from the pump to the carb is an overflow line should the pump diaphram ever rupture, instead of pumping gas into the bilge it will force it up that line into the carb or intake. That line should never have gas in it, if it does it's an indicator of a failed pump. The anti-syphon is right on the tank, Coast Guard regs list it as mandatory, should your fuel line develop a leak and you shut down the engine it will prevent gas from filling the bilge. The valve's are usually screwed into the tank, could be straight up or on a 90 deg angle and have a barbed end to fit the fuel line on to. This will show you what a typical one looks like.

http://store.mysticmarinediscounts.com/tem-260020.html"
 
filter in the carb is new and

filter in the carb is new and both tank anti-syphons are clean. I am ordering a fuel pump tonight. I will post results.
 
"check the voltage at the &#43

"check the voltage at the + terminal of the coil when it's running well cold (reference batt neg), then recheck when it's acting up"
 
Ok your gonna have to trust me

Ok your gonna have to trust me. Do a compression check.

If ok re-adjust the valves. They are to tight.
 
"age has little to do with it

"age has little to do with it - dont worry so much about the number, but 100 would be the minimum. main thing is all 4 cylinders should be within 5 or 10 psi of each other."
 
How much gas should be coming

How much gas should be coming out of the fuel line when I turn the boat over?

I can hold my thumb over the end of the line easily.

Without out my thumb on the line the gas goes up about 4-5 inches straight up.
 
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