70 hp force trim stuck down

"I have a 70hp around 1991 2 w

"I have a 70hp around 1991 2 wire with 2 hydraulic lines comming from the base of the trim motor housing. I have a new motor and housing to install but I read that when the motor is down the trim system is under pressure. I have read that there isnt a manual release on the 70 hp. I have read you can loosen the hydraulic lines to release pressure but I was wondering why you couldnt just carefully loosen the filler cap or loosen the 4 bolts holding the pump housing to the base. After removing the 4 bolts and swapping the new one, adding fluid at the filler and cap and bleeding is what I was wanting to do, or do I have to get the motor in the up position first? Sorry to be so winded but I wanted to give as much info as I could. Thanks for all replys."

"Below was found on the net ..

"Below was found on the net .........
Chrysler Force Power Trim & Tilt repair
Chrysler Force outboard engines 70-150HP, 1966-1995 Generally speaking a well maintained Chysler Force Power Trim and Tilt system is good for about 15 years with oil and 12 years with ATF.

Topping off your fluid
If your fluid is low then the system will raise to certain level and stop. Prestolite systems should be topped off with the engine lowered. Mercury systems should be topped off with the engine tilted. If your existing fluid is red then use ATF. If your existing fluid is not red then use non-detergent 30W motor oil or ISO32 hydraulic oil.

Bleeding out air bubbles
The system is self bleeding. There are no issues associated with air bubbles in cylinders. Top off the resevoir and cycle the system up/down a few times. If your problem remians then it is something else.

System bleeds down
Fully tilt the engine and block into place.
Remove oil tube from bottom of tilt cylinder and plug the hole with a 3/16" inverted flare plug
(standard brake fitting available from any auto parts store)
Remove blocking from engine and observe
If engine bleeds down then the lift cylinder is bad. If engine does not bleed down then the pump is bad.

The pump motor quit, runs slow, or only runs in one direction.
The motor rarely wears out. Check the relays and wiring first. If it goes in only one direction then swap the relay connections and see if the problem is reversed. The pump motor draws a lot of amperage - especially the 3w models. If the pump is running slow then check to make sure that all electrical feeds are clean and secure. If the motor quit running then it is probably due to rust or oil. The seals break down and debris can cause the brushes to loose contact with armature. Sometimes you can open the motor and blow it clean. Reassemble with new seals not silicon sealant. If it is rusty then you should get the pump rebuilt by someone who will bead blast the inside of motor collar.

The trim cover top ring is coming out
carefully clean out any debris and reseat the ring by driving it back down with a socket and mallet. Make four indentations into the surrounding aluminum with a punch to hold it in place"

I have read that post but I st

I have read that post but I still dont know if I can replace the motor and housing with the motor in the down poistion

Didn't you get instruction

Didn't you get instruction with your "new" motor? I think the Seloc manual has info about this and its only around 25 bucks.

If you relieve the pressure at the lines you should be ok. The motor don't care about position. I would not relieve pressure with the bolts.

I have the seloc manual and it

I have the seloc manual and it talks about a manual release valve but apparently there isnt a manual release on the 70 hp model. If you dont recomend relieving the pressure with the bolts what about carefully loosening the plug on the filler tube? Thanks for replying