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No raw water suction AQ125

"Jamie, if you remove the cool

"Jamie, if you remove the coolant cap after the engine heats up and the thermo is open, you are likely to see very hot water flowing all over the place!
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Ya I suppose =p... Was hoping

Ya I suppose =p... Was hoping I could take a peak if I just let it get to where the thermo opened...
 
"How hot is it getting now Jam

"How hot is it getting now Jamie? Being very careful of belts and pulleys, you can sometimes feel the water flowing through a rubber rad hose if you grasp hold of it or put one of those devises they use to listen to engine noises on the hose."
 
"it gets to around 220... Unfo

"it gets to around 220... Unfortunetly there aren't any rubber hoses... It is all metal inlets with gaskets.

I think I found a problem, and hopefully they problem. I never had a mark on my valve cover for the timing belt. Now I decided to remove the valve cover, Find the spot where both #1 valves were closed (measured the lifter distances to be precise) and then I made my own mark on the valve cover. It looks like I am off 1 tooth... Could 1 tooth cause this overheating, cause it to run 20-30 degrees hotter than it has before?

Thanks a lot... I will fix the timing belt tomorrow, and maybe try and check the water pump. I believe the pump should be fine, it always was before and it is defentely connected to the pulley. Maybe the pulley is a little too polished though???"
 
"Ok. Timing belt has now been

"Ok. Timing belt has now been fixed to where I believe it should be. My block is weird it has no crank mark on the block and no mark on the valve cover. I searched and found people with similar problems on these motors...

I put the crank to 0 degrees TDC, pulled the valve cover, found the perfect spot where the exhaust and intake valves are both completely closed and even. Then used the lines on the timing belt to align the distributor sprocket (which has marks on the block) to the cam sprocket mark. The mark I found using the valves and the mark on the timing belts aligned so I believe that is bang on... As for the crank, I double checked with timing marks that it was 0 degrees TDC... (I have no clear mark on the block, nothing like the ridge that I see EP post on many occasions).

Now the engine runs good again, and in my driveway it doesn't go past 195 idling, and I rev'd it for 5 minutes at 4k RPM and it didn't go past 210, and this is with bad suction from the hose... So I hope when it is in the water it should be cooler.

On a sidenote, I did pull the coolant cap (closed system) very carefully, and it did not explode, can't really see much movement. Is this normal that it wouldn't have a rush of pressure? I assume it must be moving fluid as I idled the engine for 30 minutes and it never overheated."
 
"Disregard all the above. I fi

"Disregard all the above. I finally know my problem. When I removed the plastic cap assembly on the top of the raw water heat exchanger, in order to move the copper pipe and get into the water pump, a plastic piece dividing the input and output of the exchanger snapped. This let water flow straight through the top of the exchanger instead of through it. Further, the plastic piece blocked half the flow if it wanted to go through the exchanger.

Where can I get a new spout cap assembly. Don't really know what it is called but it has the input and output connections for the raw water... as well as the cap.

Thanks
Jamie"
 
"hopefully someone local will

"hopefully someone local will have it. I want to take the boat out on friday/sat/sun... Maybe I can try and fix it if there are none available.

To any future people with heating problems. Once you have exhausted all the obvious reasons it may overheat, look at the inobvious ones instead of pulling out your hair! I had great flow, but the flow never actually travelled through the heat exchanger"
 
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