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1993 johnson 150 oil alarm

would disconnecting the 5 pin

would disconnecting the 5 pin connector going to the powerpack disconnect all of these things in one step? and the timing wheel does have a hairline crack in it. i ordered a new one. just had the wires replaced to omc resistor wires and the correct plugs. this was done before last run and no change. also if disconnecting the 5 pin connector disconnects all of the things you said to then i have run it once before with all of this not connected. and still does same ole thing. runs great when cold and once it gets hot if i am at full throttle it is almost like it bogs out and when i crank back up it wants to buck and jerk. if i keep trying to crank it it will idle some but generally it surges from 1200 rpm up to 2000 sometimes and if put in gear it just bucks and dies. if at this point you check fire you can flip a coin sometimes you have fire and sometimes not. BIG THANKS TO JWB AND MORTEN FOR TAKING TIME TO HELP ME. the dealer that has been working on it basically told me yesterday not to bring it back to them because they cant fix it.
 
"This has been such a mess, so

"This has been such a mess, so it is important that we start systematically from square 1.
Hopefully the dealer may lend You an ignition analyzer so the sensor (optical) might be tested as well. Note that only one 'BAD' light indicates faulty sensor when cranking. It does not help if 99 are GOOD and one is BAD. That test has to be done when problem occurs.
When testing You need:
-Multimeter with pins that might be inserted into the contacts on power-pack to measure power output from stator.
-Ignition analyzer to test optical sensor.
-Timing light to test output from coils.
Disconnect as I mentioned before.
If problems occurs, start with the timing light and test all plug leads while cranking.
If problems, hook up the analyzer and test.
If ok, measure output from stator to power pack
while cranking.
You have mentioned that engine might be erratic and back-fire when restarted. That might indicate one of the double coils having a leak to the other half firing both halves at the same time. This might be a typical heat/expansion problem.If possible borrow a new set of coils from dealer.
Report back."
 
thanks for the info. it may be

thanks for the info. it may be this coming up weekend before i can try all of this if i can borrow an analizer and timing light. even when acting up i did test the stator tho and the voltages ranged from 140 to 300. and if i remember correct the leads coming from the powerpack voltages were around between 25 and 50. but maybe with the tools you requested i can dig a little deeper. when acting up it does what i have had a lot of people call "sneezing" where it will do almost as a person would when we sneeze. thats the best way i can describe wats happening.
 
"ok-------i thought,.u took it

"ok-------i thought,.u took it in to dealer???..and,.according to morty,..all my above,....has been a 'MESS'.......it is just the process of trbl shooting....of which,...he seems,to know everything........take it to him,..in.malasia,.is what i would do....and maybe w/a US flag in my hand........but,thats just me..."
 
"JWB:
No offense, but a bit d

"JWB:
No offense, but a bit difficult to follow what has been done and what not, and no clear results of measuring results. I guess You have Your routine of trouble shooting engines, and it is a bit difficult to follow when we do not have our 'own hands' on it. What makes this board a challenge.
Jordan:
If You do not have Your own workshop manual, get the readings concerning voltages from the dealer."
 
i did take it to the dealer an

i did take it to the dealer and he called and told me to come pick it up because he couldnt fix it because he ran it in the tank for 2 hours and it did nothin unusual. and no dealers left in this area to try.I remember you told me there is no way for the powerpack to cause it to rev. i believe this to be true therefore i am leaning toward having more than one problem. i have heard the term heatsoak causing engines to perform like mine does once it is hot. do you think that could be one of my problems? and idk what he means by Mess but i believe that he didnt mean that your troubleshooting was a mess i think he was talking about the problems i am having being a mess. Once again thanks so much for the help you have already gave me. And by no means was i trying to offend you by asking for more help.
 
a have a list of voltages that

a have a list of voltages that was printed off the CDI website. and the stator seems to be fine but the sheet does not have what the voltages from the powerpack should be.
 
"Let us have a look at what we

"Let us have a look at what were the weak points of the early 60-loopers.
- Thermostats got blocked, ran too hot at high temps.(change thermostats)
- Spark jumps from 'black' plug leads killed PP. In some cases re-activated quick-start that went in and out.
-Gasket for read-valve housing not resistant. (was originally Black, then changed to Brown, not sure of latest).
-Leakages in vapor chamber and defect vapor pumps.
-Cyl head sealing. Corrosion between head and block reduced heat transfer. (Dismantle head)
The above are roughly things I want to go through, but in a systematic order. That dealer has not managed to recreate problem in tank, might even indicate it is not engine related but boat/installation related. (Wiring harness, fuel system, installation)"
 
"ok, first off when i bought t

"ok, first off when i bought the motor it had no thermostats but i have some ordered. i have changed from black plug leads to the gray omc wires. as far as the rest i would have to go thru and check them. i have also heard that heat soak would cause these engines to run lean on warm start causing them to rev up as mine is doing. Also hear that small cracks in the timer wheel can cause big problems which mine has a hairline crack but the dealer said it should not cause any trouble but i ordered a new one anyways. You tell me where to check and i will check to the best of my ability. Thanks again."
 
"Jordan,
I have encountered

"Jordan,
I have encountered a similar problem as yours on a '93 175 faststrike, definately not as dramatic though.. After replacing a faulty pack with a sierra unit, it would start fine run for about half hour then die. On a spark check would only fire twice then nothing. After replacing the pack again with a genuine unit the motor ran fine again. Im thinking your pack could be doing all sorts of weird and wonderful things. Could be engaging quickstart and SLOW. Now if you manage to run for an hour no probs then I would rule out a fuel prob. And since you lose fire but stator test shows up fine, Im leaning to a faulty pack... just incase you ask... yes packs can be faulty straight out of the box...."
 
"Tony:
You may be partly righ

"Tony:
You may be partly right. I have seen 'out of the box' PP been defective. However in most cases where people claim the 'new' to be defective, it has in fact been destroyed by other parts of the ignition system, normally what killed the first pack. Most common PP killers are spark jumps from coils/leads into primary-in to coils. Might even be induction from spark plug leads into same primary. The 60degr has another 'danger' and that is the double coil. By design they are two separate in one package, but I have come across coils that have shorted between.
Before recommending a new pack, I would like to be certain that a failing pack itself is the reason, and not some surrounding part."
 
yea i have tried 3 packs the f

yea i have tried 3 packs the first would rev up to 3500rpm until you shut it off and then the second ran fine for a while and then quit firing on 3 cylinders and then the one now quits after 30 mins or so. so something is causing a problem other than the pack
 
"if this was my personal engin

"if this was my personal engine,......i would rip every damn thing off of it,.sensors,timer wheel,..pack,v reg,..i mean everything....enuf,would be enuf for me,or my customer....i'd repl every thing....he has already done all this...from what i understand....my opinion,is u dont have 2-3 bad packs,..replce the coil packs,timer wheel,....in other words,..get this eng running right,.....and,back think,...........in december......u obviously,have a bear in the woods here,...and somtimes,...even tho others,have done it,they may not admit it,..throwing parts at it,..may very well cure it,..then,do the back thinking,like i said in dec..."
 
you are right. all i gotta get

you are right. all i gotta get now is new coils because everything else i have brand new in box already. that was just a very expensive option but i guess thats what has to be done. new timing wheel came in today. so if everything is replaced it pretty much has to work. i dont quite understand what you mean by bear in the woods tho.
 
"And be sure You have the ther

"And be sure You have the thermostats and correct springs in before starting, or You might burn down the rectifier!"
 
oh really i had no idea of tha

oh really i had no idea of that? the thermostats have not been in the motor since i got it. could this have caused some problems?
 
"It disrupts the total water c

"It disrupts the total water circulation of the engine.
It might create an air-buble on top of the block not cooling the rectifier properly.
It disrupts the quick-start function by probably making the quick-start stay on. By right it should be 'disconnected' above 1200 rpm, but dropping below and low engine temp it will stay on. You never get a proper idling. The circuit is not designed for 'continues' operation and might burn out damaging the pack."
 
i need help my tack is working

i need help my tack is working and then not in out all the time 1990 200 hp evinrude thanks if any 1 can help
 
tach problems it works and the

tach problems it works and then it doesnt in out all the time 1990 200 hp evinrude thanks if any1 can help
 
"jordan,...are u absolutely su

"jordan,...are u absolutely sure,...u dont have a shift switch......it may not show for your eng on a diagram,but was an upgrade later,that was inst on lots of eng's...i sure would like to see a pic of your shift linkages.."
 
ok i will take a picture of th

ok i will take a picture of the boat tomorrow but i asked the dealer and he showed me a shift switch on a 200 evinrude and i do not have one where he showed me. would it be located on the side of the engine where the throttle linkages? or in the front of the engine where there are some more linkages?
 
ok and i will replace thermost

ok and i will replace thermostats before engine is run again. this could be causing my problem the whole time. because something is causing a very bad idling problem once engine is hot. thanks to both you guys for yals help.
 
ok i have all the new parts ex

ok i have all the new parts except the thermostats. i will have to wait until they come in before i take the chance of running it without them. maybe next weeked i can try her out and see how she does.
 
ok guys no luck. everything is

ok guys no luck. everything is brand new out the box. spent less than 2 mins in the water and boom revs up to 2000 rpm i tried pushing choke to see if that helped and rpm came down to 1000 for a min and then it bogged. could i also have a fuel problem along with the ignition problem. oh and used a timing light and as the rpms rose the flashes were getting faster and faster but they were not erratic and when it would go to die the light would just slow down. i no longer belive i have a ignition problem with everything new but its possible. any ideas? Thanks
 
"Let us get some real facts an

"Let us get some real facts and readings.
At cold start, quick start should be activated. In practice that means that engine fires when slot in timing wheel opens -ignition advances and rpm is increased. However the system will limmit rpm to about 1200 rpm by cutting ignition pulses. At about 36C, the cold start should be deactivated, ignition start when slot goes from open to close. You should be able to see this clearly as a drop in ignition advance with Your timing light.
However at the same time the rpm limiter is de-activated and engine will run according to set timing and carbs.
Question:
Is Your LOW timing set according to book (With ignition analyzer)?
Has all the carbs been properly synchronized according to book? (totally closed at idle)?
Does the idle rpm go down if the 'LOW' tab is adjusted down (Ignition retarded)?"
 
idle timing and high speed tim

idle timing and high speed timing were set by dealer. and yes they did a linc and sync. true engine does engage quick start and it is working properly because if i ground the white wire with black stripe rpms fall to just below 1000. but this does not help when the engine starts to rev. it acts just as if you are advancing the timing as it does when you throttle up with the lever. on muffs i now can recreate the problem after just a few minutes of running. have tried looking for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the carbs and intake but no luck. if i choke it the rpms lower but it dies out. i kinda thought fuel to start with but i am leaning more and more towards the timing system on this motor because it used to run a while before it would do this and now it does it after just a few mins. and the new optical sensor i recieved would not even let the engine fire so i had to replace it with an old one and the engine would fire so i am guessing something aint right with that... Any readings you want or need me to verify if you can explain how to do it i am sure i can do it.
 
"Does the problem occur by its

"Does the problem occur by itself when just running idle? (without moving the throttle at all during start?)
Are You sure the holder for the optical sensor does not stick, but returns fully to stop?
If timing increase You should be able to note it by using a timing light. What is timing at correct low idle and what is timing when engine revs?
Note that the low idle tab has to be set when boat is launched, it is the only way to adjust idle."
 
i did not check the timing whe

i did not check the timing when it reved but i belive the idle timing was somewhere around 6. i will check the other timing when i can borrow a timing light again.yes it will begin to rev with no throttle applied and i did check the holder and it does not seem to be sticking. if i allow the boat to sit and idle with noone touching anything it will after a few mins begin to rev to 2000 sometimes as high as 2500 just as if you were reving it with the throttle lever.
 
ok guys i think i am heading i

ok guys i think i am heading in the right direction now. the new optical sensor i installed would not allow the engine to fire at all. installed the original optical sensor. within two mins engine was reving and jerking. then took that optical sensor off and installed the one that was allowing the engine to run for about an hour before having any problems and now the engine ran on the muffs for 50 mins without acting up. would you say that the problem has to be in the optical sensor?
 
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