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Gamefisher 75 carb

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bonehead68

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"I'm working on a Gamefish

"I'm working on a Gamefisher 7.5 for a friend. He says the motor only runs right when warmed up with the choke partially on. This means it is running too lean and I thought either float level or partially plugged hole. Looking at the carb, I find an adjustment screw/knob that looks to be possibly for richness. Before I take things apart does anyone know if this is what that adjustment is for or another reason for needing the choke part way on?

Thanks for any help."
 
"Some 7.5's had a rich/lea

"Some 7.5's had a rich/lean knob on the front that could be adjusted with the cowling on, others have adjustments on the carb, but not external. I'm guessing what you are seeing is an idle mixture screw. Post the model number of the motor (If it's made by Eska it starts with 217) and I could tell you a bit more."
 
"The model number is 217 58584

"The model number is 217 585841 Eska?

Looking at the carb from the throttle handle position, the screw is on the upper left side of the carb. angling out from near the throat. It has a small wheel (for finger adjusting) attached around the end which is also slotted.

I guess my question is, is this for fuel richness or is it just for idle and the richness is set by the float level?

Thanks, Richard"
 
"Your motor is a 1981, made by

"Your motor is a 1981, made by Eska. I have an identical 1980 model.
The screw you are talking about is the Lean-Rich idle adjustment screw. That isn't what is going to solve your high-speed woes.
It sounds like you need clean the carb and install a kit for it. There is a pump element (part number 630953) and flap valve that seem to wear out over time and lose their ability to pump fuel properly. The pump element is usually easy to find, I can't find a flap valve anywhere (part number 631555). I'd clean the carb and install a new pump element first, it might get you moving along again."
 
"Wayne,

I did most of what

"Wayne,

I did most of what you suggested except for the new parts. The diaphragm is very similar to the Tilletson carbs we use on Briggs go kart racing motors except they are one piece of rubber with a light spring behind the diaphragm.

I took a digital picture before I disassembled it just to be sure I put it back right. I seem to be missing something which I'm pretty sure was not there before disassembly. It looks like there is supposed to be some sort of bushing around the shaft sticking up from the throttle that is then turned by a plate? behind that part of the throttle. Not a very good description but you probably know what I mean since you seem very familiar with this motor.

Thanks, Richard"
 
"kinda old post hope you still

"kinda old post hope you still check this wayne. i think i may have that same motor,cant find numbers anywhere and motor doesnt look like any i have seen list as that one. if possible can i get some pics of the carb. thanks"
 
"I've got the same motor w

"I've got the same motor with the same problem too. I just put in a new kit complete with flat...got it off of ebay. It's a tecumseh motor built by eska for sears. Mine is hard to start, will run fine on 1/2 choke but either slows down or doesn't run at all with choke completely off. This leads me to believe either it is the fuel line or a gasket sucking air... unless something is clogging a fuel passage which I don't think is my problem. I certainly hope someone has the solution for this. I've had the same problem on several motors. By the way, your description of the plate that moves the throttle is correct. I've got 2 gamefishers and neither have the bushing you mentioned. You can see an exploded view by going to sears.com and looking in the parts direct thingy... you'll need your serial number which is located on the left side of the bottom of the cowl if you're looking at the carburetor."
 
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