Can somebody identify this engine

"Hi I just joined this board c

"Hi I just joined this board cause I bought my first boat at an auction, and I have a bunch of questions.
I do not know what age the boat or the engine is, (guess 60's or 70's) since I could not locate any manufacture label or plaquette.
It is made by K&C Thermaglass it is a 17" runabout.
The engine is a inline 6 and I have no clue what size it is or who made it. The only number I could find on the engine block is "6 F ?27" on the watercooling manifold it says OMC.
Can anybody possibly guess what kind of engine this is. Thanks......

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Except for the marine adaptati

Except for the marine adaptations it looks like a 6 cyl out of a 1966 Chevelle.

"If that's the L6 250 c.i.

"If that's the L6 250 c.i.d., they used it longer than that. I had one in my '73 Nova. Straight 6 is a good little motor and as Eddie said, the OMC parts are about the only differences."

"Actually it came out in 1962

"Actually it came out in 1962 and the block survived into the mid 1980s in full size Chevy and GMC trucks and vans. It was also used in Buick, Pontiac and Oldsmobile mid-size and compact cars in the 1970s. Later models had an integrel head and intake manifold molded in one piece. Also electronic HEI ignition came along in later years. Note that the the Mercruiser 3.0 Liter 4cyl is virtually the same engine less two cylinders."

It's good that they went t

It's good that they went to HEI. Mine used to gnaw through points like crazy.

"If boat is new enough to have

"If boat is new enough to have a standardized serial number stamped, molded, riveted, etc. to right rear corner (starboard stern in real boat talk) the last three or four digits will be month and year of manufacture.

Bob"

"Thanks for all the replies gu

"Thanks for all the replies guys. It is appreciated

So according to this decal this boat was build in July of 62, or in February of 78 if the 3 first digits are the manufacture date. Which one is more likely?


who can tell me where to get more info on KC Thermo Glass, is this company still in business? I cant seem to find any info, tried to find a phone number in the yellow pages and also googled for it, but all what I find is adds of people trying to sell their boat.
What happend to this company, are they now under a different name or are they long gone.
Where could i find info on the different boats they made, where could I find a manual ( specially repair manual)"

"Probably your only hope would

"Probably your only hope would be to contact some boat yards or marine supply shops around Vancouver, British Columbia and see if you can find an old timer that remembers the company. Small companies that went out of business more than 20 years ago are hard to trace."

"I found some more numbers, co

"I found some more numbers, could somebody tell me according to these what size and year this engine is?

K 08 18 TF
385081
GM
5X"

"Show us your outdrive!!

Th

"Show us your outdrive!!

That'll help. Also, any metal stamped tags affixed anywhere on motor or drive parts would help date this as well. I suspect it's around a 1967-70, but additional info would help. It's definitely a L6 GM 250 CID, they've been around since the late 50's in some way shape or form. Seeing as it's got a spin on oil filter versus a cartridge type makes me think mid-late 60's or possibly very early 70's."

"Also, the numbers on that tag

"Also, the numbers on that tag on the stern of the boat. It's a phone number. I would assume for K&C ThermOglass. Just a guess though, judging from the little dash between the first 3 and last 4 digits, and that 278 is actually a Richmond B.C. phone prefix.

Not meaning to be smart!

Boats didn't start getting standardized stern markings that ID'd manufacturing info and dates until the late 70's. Anything before this usually had nothing more than a coast guard certification plate. They were pretty much all hand made back then. I think this boat is too old for a stern manufacture/serial number marking. And I want to change my earlier guess to a 73 or 74. I did some snooping..."

"Geez, next time I'm gonna

"Geez, next time I'm gonna try and do this all in one post. As far as a manual for the boat goes, there probably never was one. The manufacturer back then could literally have been less than a dozen guys that made boats for little more than beer money. BUT...the engine and outdrive, there will still be manuals for them, and I suspect that's what you'll need. Looking at this beast, I'm betting you'll wear the pages thin. Looks almost as bad as MY first boat! You are gonna learn lots, yound jedi...

www.kencook.com makes old OMC service manual reprints, and they are pretty much the same price you'd pay for a newer service manual. 60 or so bucks, and it's what we use in the industry to fix them. First we gotta find out what year though. Get out there and get me pics of that drive."

"thanks for all the info.
i c

"thanks for all the info.
i could not find any metal tags on the engine or the carburetor. It looks to me as if the carb is not a marine carb but just a regular truck carb.
I bought a Clymers manual for OMC I/O 60's to late 70's which covers the inline 6.
I sure have my work cut out for myselfe. Lots to learn. I hoped the manual would also talk about how to set up cooling to test the engine in your drive way, but I couldnt find any instructions about that. Would there be some instructions somewhere online available? I'm really new to this whole boating thing and dont wanna burn out on the first try. After all its supposed to be fun and not just a money hole in the ground.

I'll take some pictures of the outdrive tomorrow.
Can the outdrive only be lowered with power or is there a way to disengage manualy and lower it?
It sure does not help being up north withouth any marine dealers close by."

"here some pictures of the out

"here some pictures of the outdrive and carburetoroutdrive"">





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found some numbers on the outdrive looks like 882220
numbers

"Dastardly,
You should ch

"Dastardly,
You should check out some of the previous posts on this thread about the 250 6 cylynder. Another note, that block, introduced in 1962 as a 235 cu. in. replaced the earlier Chevy 6 that was basically the same since 1929. I knew a guy who got a 1937 Chevy truck back on the road. This was in about 1969. He dropped in the newer 6 out of a wrecked Chevy II and it basically bolted right in. Minor work was needed for linkage to throttle"

"there used to be a flusher fo

"there used to be a flusher for those. replaced stbd. side plate on tilt pin. check with omc dealer, maybe they still got one lying around. basicaly, its just a hose connection on the cover. (picture # 2)be ready for broken bolts. carb is probably same as auto, thats what they used back then. guessing mid 60s. tilt mechanism has clutch pack. (port side, large round cover) sometimes will go down by jumping on it. clutch can be removed, but can be a pain to reassemble. make sure you support drive. when they drop, they come down hard. can break clamps on transom.(and hand, foot, etc.)cant see port side of transom, but theres either a clip, or plate behind tilt mech. holds in worm gear. if you can get it apart, will pop out back, and free drive to drop. are you sure you want to fix this? looks like a big project."

"so you mean I just hook a wat

"so you mean I just hook a waterhose up to this hoseconnector and start the engine up? (not that it will start for while)



and yes I'm sure i want to fix it."

"I'd be willing to bet tha

"I'd be willing to bet that's a 68 or a 69. That external steering ram makes me pretty darn sure. That CLymer will cover *almost* everything but the original OMC service manual is something you are going to eventually want to get. Clymer can sometimes be very vague. The OMC one isn't a wallet buster, and you'll value it immensely. It'll get dog eared and grease smeared, and be found everywhere from the trunk of the car to the tank cover on the toilet. I've even managed to get hot and sour soup on mine. Beat that.

You can move the drive by removing the cover on that small round gearcase, removing the snap ring holding that big gear on the shaft...the one that engages that big quarter round gear on the lower. Then pull the gear off. I might be wrong about the total procedure/parts etc., as I've been working on mostly new stuff at my shop, but it's all about getting that big round gear off that case. **TIE IT UP** before you do this, as this gearcase is incredibly heavy, and will slam down with enough force to remove vital components from your chassis. I'm deadly serious. Once that big gear comes off, there's nothing holding it up. That connector is where you hook up a water hose. Sorry Scott, just saw you already point this out about the drive slamming down, but when it's fingers cut off, I'm OK with two warnings, so I'll leave it.

Advice, Markus. Tour some local marinas. Assemble a stockpile of parts for this particular drive as cheap as you can, these are old enough that some marinas would give them up to make space for more current. A lot of parts for those drives are simply not available. Bombardier, who bought OMC when they nosedove, is no longer supporting anything stern drive, right up to the 1999 models, so you are totally without parts in many cases. For example, if the gearcase itself broke, there hasn't been a new replacement available from OMC since then. You'd either need a used one or have to get the old welded. This is why people are warning you off this project. It's easier when you got a pile of spares."

"hmmmm.....Tour some local mar

"hmmmm.....Tour some local marinas.....I wish I could, but there is really nothing around here. Northern BC doesent have to many boating centres.
Next bigger city with a marine dealer is 320KM away and I'm sure they dont have to much laying around for this boat.
Well I guess hopefully an other lesson learned. Stay away from old cheap boats, they are cheap for a reason. "

"If you do decide to fix this

"If you do decide to fix this boat up, I have any part you will need for it in stock. Check out www.mmmarinesalvage.com. George."

"Thanks George I will add your

"Thanks George I will add your site to my favorites.
So you will ship to Canada, right?"