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1990 70hp Evinrude VRO dies

F

Floatingabout

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" My evinrude dies completely.

" My evinrude dies completely.

You can run it for hours, but if you let it sit for a while, it will start no problem, but will die completely ( like total fuel starvation ) on all cyls.after a few minutes . Fuel lines ok etc

Could it be the powerpack ? Can't find a short anywhere else. "
 
" Your message is a little con

" Your message is a little confusing. You say that the engine will run for hours, but then again you say it will die out after a few minutes. Is your problem one whereas the engine runs for hours, then dies out completely... and won't restart, but if you let it sit for some time it will eventually start but dies out again after a few minutes?

If the above is the case, I'd suggest that you have a spark plug wrench on board, remove the s/plugs when this problem surfaces, then (with the s/plugs removed), check the spark on all cylinders. If there's no spark, find the black wire with a yellow stripe that leads to the powerpack and disconnect it. If you now have spark, in all probability your ignition switch has a high resistance short between the two terminals that are marked "M". A ignition switch with that problem will function but will be intermitent. Replace the ignition switch if needed.

If you had spark when you ran the initial test, obviously the spark (ignition) is okay. In which case, I would suspect a fuel restriction... it would take some time for the fuel restriction to affect the engine initially, but having once done so, it would, after you finally get it running again, affect the engine much sooner. If this is the case, look at the fitting on top of the built in tank where the rubber fuel hose connects. There may be a "anti siphon" valve there. It would be aluminum, about 2" long and the inside portion of it would consist of a spring, ball, and ball seat. It this valve exists, remove it, knock out the inner parts which converts it to a straight through fitting, and reinstall it.

Let me know what you find, and if necessary re-explain your problem a little more percise.

Joe (30 + Years With OMC) "
 
" OK Joe, thanks for your repl

" OK Joe, thanks for your reply.

I'll try and be a little more accurate, but here in England that dosn't come easily.

Starting the enginge cold is no problem, and it will run fine on the drive under no load.

When I put it in the water it will generally cut after 5 minutes. I can then start it again, and as long as I don't switch off it will run for hours, skiing, fishing whatever.

If I switch off for a short time, restart the engine again it will cut out completely. With a struggle I can restart but it runs in very short bursts.Again , after this initial struggle it will run for hours.

I wonder if when rest it, the heat peak as the engine is not pumping water is affecting the power pack, or as you say it couls be on the switch.

If you take a plug out, there is always a spark.

The tanks are portable 6 gallon and symptoms appear on either tank. Pumping the bulb has no effect, and there is no feeling of fuel starvation because the the cut out is instant on all cylinders, and there is no throbbing of the engine I would associate with fuel restriction.

Ask me as many questions as you like, and again thanks for the help "
 
" It's always possible tha

" It's always possible that a powerpack could be intermitent but it's a problem that's few and far between. Many boaters carry a spare powerpack on board along with their spare spark plugs etc which is a good idea. It's a quick way to solve the question of a intermitent p/pack simply by installing the spare. I'd consider that a cheap investment and worth a try.

The spark that you say exists right after the engine dies out.... that spark should jump a 7/16" gap on all cylinders, NOTE... with the spark plugs (all) removed. If it's a weak spark, I'd suspect the ignition switch. If the ign switch is easy to get at, simply remove the black/yellow wire from the switch terminal which will eliminate the "kill" circuit.

You say there is no throbing such as would be associated with a fuel problem. That leads me to believe that you would have a ignition problem but it's really hard to pin down. A fuel problem usually causes a engine to (sort of) die out gradually... whereas a ignition problem causes a engine to either break up or cut off instantly.

I'd suggest removing that black/yellow wire first and keep in mind that even if the ignition switch proves to be fine, that black/yellow wire could still be intermitent at some point in the wiring harness (instrument or engine harness). Disconnecting the black/yellow wire at the p/pack would eliminate any harness problem. Note that with that black/yellow wire disconnected, it will be impossible to shut the engine down with the ign switch.

Secondly, although the fact that you have spark right after the failure puzzles me, I would beg, borrow, of buy a powerpack to try momentary. I know that there's other ways to test a p/pack but replacing it is really the easiest route to take.
Keep me informed.

Joe (30+ Years With OMC) "
 
Thanks Joe

just one last t


Thanks Joe

just one last thing.

the switch is situated in the control box along with the warning horn. recently the horn has been "screaching" rather than "horning" Do you thing water in the control box might be causing both these problems ?

Thanks
 
" This is the first mention of

" This is the first mention of water being in the control box, and about the warning horn sounding off that I'm aware of. If water has been in the c/box, I'd suggest strongly that it be removed, inspected, dismantled, and cleaned throughly. Has this rig been underwater?

If that horn is not shorted out due to a water problem, the engine is overheating and that overheating problem will require correcting firat.

Joe (30+ years With OMC) "
 
" sorry Joe, I'm not expla

" sorry Joe, I'm not explaining myself very well.

The control box has not been under water.

The horn "squeaks" at the right times. Short "squeak" when the key turns, and when I do a shorting check at the engine block it "squeaks" It just dosn't give the loud blast it should do.

This is why I am wondering if there has been some water ingress into the control box. I will take it all apart and have a look.

I don't think the engine is overheating because the S.L.O.W. dosn't kick in .

Thanks "
 
"Glad to hear that your engine

"Glad to hear that your engine hasn't been underwater. Those horns have been known to go bad and screech bad rather than sound off properly, however I've never heard of any horn problem that would affect a engine such as you've encountered. And I agree with you about the SLOW feature. Let me know what you find as per my last post of 9:04am.

Joe
"
 
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