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2 Questions BF8A Flushing amp OK to remove thermostat

folkboatman

New member
"Two related questions:

1.


"Two related questions:

1. Several times a year we are out a week or more and up to a month, in salt water away from civilization & freshwater hoses. No opportunity to flush the motor -- which is definitely not good for a Honda BF8A! I have replaced the thermostat twice due to corrosion, and have had the pee hole plug up VERY solid. (Never any overheating, fortunately.) I am now replacing the intake manifold because severe pitting around the thermostat has caused a leak (an external one).

Question: Can I just dispense with the thermostat all together? (Water temperatures here 40s to 50s, rarely around 60.) See recommendation on p.3 of this file, which suggests doing so: http://www.thunderbirdsailing.org/Newsletters/PMITCA_newsltr_Dec%2001.pdf

2. What do you think of the BF8A flushing method shown here?: http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/tech/tech25/tt028.asp

We flush the motor with the boat tied-up at the dock, by using the Honda fitting that goes over the water intake. Very awkward, hanging over the stern to hook it up, though. Will the method shown work OK if the motor is run with the water intake active, or will sucking in salt water defeat the purpose? (For that matter, I'm never sure I get a good seal with Honda flushing fitting, and some salt water may be going through with the fresh -- 180 degree bend with the hose coming over the stern affects position of fitting.)

Thanks."
 
"1. Running with faulty/no the

"1. Running with faulty/no thermostat could cause your oil to become contaminated by condensate water (from Honda Shop Manual). Your lube oil needs to get hot enough and engine is designed to operate at rated temperature. Also, flow of water could be adversly affected, I know that the back cylinder of a OMC/Mercruiser 120 will run hot without any thermostat. Perhaps a Zinc washer of the right size to restrict flow would help & reduce corrosion as well.

Reading the 'expert' opinion from the PDF of your link, I would just be sure to use a MARINE lube oil and monitor for any milky color and greatly reduce time between oil changes to compensate.

2. That flush attachment looks like a good idea, if you did not run engine during flush, a 'thermostat' may prevent water from flushing cylinder & head section. A good check on your flush success would be to catch a little 'pee hole' water
and JUST taste
for salt."
 
Thanks for the good advice. Gu

Thanks for the good advice. Guess I will limp along with the thermostat and change it out annually. I have an new inlet manifold on order now -- should last several years.

-- Larry
 
"Love those Folkboats [img][/i

"Love those Folkboats


I have had success with cleaning same thermostat for past ten years, my problem was getting manifold gaskets.

Had an external leak, cut a gasket from 'stock' and then had an internal leak w/major oil contamination.


Have just found out that p/n's xxxxx-881-850 have been changed to xxxxx-881-003 and have new gasket set ordered."
 
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