Overfueling 86 Bayliner trophy

It should be no problem provid

It should be no problem providing the exhaust relief hoses are open and intact. When idling almost no exhaust will go through the drive but out the relief hoses. Just check that You do not have flaps in the exhaust bellow in addition to the flaps on the drive.

"Simple thing to try...If you

"Simple thing to try...If you shut off the fuel valve to the engine while at idle, does the problem go away after a few seconds? If it does... float level/valve problem."

"Hi fellas, Long winter..

U

"Hi fellas, Long winter..

UPDATE: I pulled the shrinkwrap off her. Put in new plugs as Martin described. Pulled the exhaust to see if it was restricted, found the bellows had a set of flaps in it so I removed the drive flaps just in case. Ran it on the ears and the temp never went above 120. Today I'm pulling the thermostat (again) putting in a 180 degree and pulling the intake to make sure the exhaust rstrictors are in place under the carb.

After this bout, I have completely gone over this thing with new everything and am out of ideas as well as 3000.00 in mechanic and parts fees. It is kinda funny to watch the best scratch they're heads but it is a pricey show.

Recap: New carbs x 2, New pertronix ignition, plugs, wires, coil x 3, New Distributor, All new fuel system from the bottom of the tank to the new fuel pump (x3)

Cylinder pressure 150-155 on all 8.
Fuel pressure 5-6 pounds.
Spark check solid blue
No exhaust restrictions.

Runs smooth at Idle and on plane to WOT but I still have heavy fuel contamination in oil pan and a raw exhaust smell and rainbow at all speeds. About a 1/4 mile off the dock and the plugs foul, the soot is heavy and I have to limp back with it missing.

The engine is in exact specs according to manuals and the best mechanics around.

Noone can explain why we can drop the idle adjustment screw all the way off the plate, adjust the mixture screws all the way in delicately and the engine neither changes pitch nor rpm.

I am leaning back to carburation float level despite the fact this is the third factory carb.

This boat was received unmolested from the previous owner and he said it ran perfect when he stored it 11 years ago. (yes I have new fuel).

All parts bolted on are oem except the ignition and I have very little hair left.

Anyone have anything fresh?? I'll post what becomes of todays trials with the intake and thermo again......

Salute.......

Denny"

Check the well plugs on the bo

Check the well plugs on the bottom of the carb these are known to leak.They shoud be coated with epoxy.I was told new rochester carbs are no longer availible.Maybe you have two bad rebuilds.Try a edelbroch carb

mmmm....some carbs in some ins

mmmm....some carbs in some installations have a wedge under the carb so that it is level when the boat runs and all is happy inside. Possibly you do or don't have one and your shouldn't or should have one...

"Update: After pulling the int

"Update: After pulling the intake and replacing the thermo, same problems.

BUT........When I pulled the intake and benched it I tilted it a little and noticed the absence of gasoline spilling from the carb.

The lights went on. Why is my carb completely dry??!!

I went to my barn and put the original carb on the bench and began disecting it like a surgeon. Measured my float level when seated. I put the intake and new carb back on the boat and put a clinometer on the throat of the carb and went to the bench and put my old carb at exactly the same attitude to see where the float was. I poured gas in the bowl until the needle seated and it never did at the same attitude as the one on the boat. I then adjusted the float down until it would seat at the same attitude (considerably) and reassembled it and swapped it out on the boat with the new one I bought.

Changed the oil and fired her up. Problem solved.

I now have a brand new quadrajet that is bagged and on a shelf for future use or sale...whatever.

After thousands of dollars on mechanics, many backyard and dockside hours, the moral of this story is stay with what you know and chase the cause for the cure and don't ignore the symptoms.

Two years ago this was my initial thought but was talked into buying a new reman carb. I was assured by the company I bought it from that it was set up for my specific boat and application.

Guess what.....it wasn't. Same carb, same numbers but wrong float specs for my rig.

I thank you all for the advice and cheerleading in the past two years, excellant group. I now know my boat stem to stern and that in itself was worth the cash and manhours.

I'll see you on the beach!!!!

SALUTE

Denny"

Hey Denny -

Didn't I su

Hey Denny -

Didn't I suggest this in my post last Nov 28 ?

;-) Glad it worked out. Now go enjoy your boat !

Hi All
I have been having

Hi All
I have been having the same problem with gas getting into the oil. I noticed one of the other members mentioned the well plugs on the bottom of the carb should be coated with an epoxy. Can someone let me know what type of epoxy is suitable for this purpose.

Thanks

"Dan, parts stores have it on

"Dan, parts stores have it on the rack. After all I've been thru with this situation I can pretty much assure you that the plugs are probably not the problem. It's very very rare.

I've learned alot about this issue so here's my advise.

Run your boat today. Tommorrow pull off your carb being very careful not to tip it or drain it.

Afetr it's removed, tip it and see if any gas spills out. If it's dry I would say needle seat problem.

If it's wet, your well plugs are fine and it's probably a float adjustment like I had.

Only other answer would be fuel pump diaphragm blown.

Hope it helps.

Denny"