Logo
FULL SITE MENU

30L 1985

R

rstroh01

Member
"I have a 1985 Wellcraft with

"I have a 1985 Wellcraft with a 3.0 L. It starts fine but after the engine warms up it looses power and eventually stalls out. I have changed the ignition coil, starter (separate issue). Checked the compression all 4 cyl. 160+. I don't know what else to try. any ideas?"
 
You need to determine if it&#3

You need to determine if it's electrical or fuel related (almost sounds like fuel to me). Have you changed the fuel filters and checked the anti-syphon valve at the tank plus the screen at the bottom of the tank pick up line?
 
"No fuel lines getting hot. I

"No fuel lines getting hot. I also tried opening the fuel cap after it stalls and heard no rushing air.

New information: I filled a container with water and put it under the outdrive, the suction for water intake with the engine idling was very weak. I also noticed when the engine is off and it is connected to a hose I get water leaking out of the top part of the outdrive (see picture). When I opened it up I found one of the bolts had been broken off and another was stripped. I think this was letting air into the cooling system...
193295.jpg
"
 
"The leak was between the pivo

"The leak was between the pivot trunion and its cover. One of the 4 bolts is sheered off. Also the lower bolt on the pivot cap is stripped out. see pic.
193298.jpg


so the next question is what else do I need to look at to ensure I dont have water issues?
I think I need to look the the impeller in the lower unit and possibly the water pump in the engine correct?"
 
"you didn't mention any ov

"you didn't mention any overheating...are you thinking this is connected to the stalling? I cant see how, but you probably need to change the w/p impeller in the drive (it's actually in the upper unit, not the lower) don't worry about the pump on the engine..it doesnt draw water in...and you probably want to fix those bolts....but they may not be leaking much water really...theres a lot of old stringer drives around with those bolts broke..."
 
Not sure it was related. temp

Not sure it was related. temp gauge reaches about 160 before problem starts.... Now have the lower and upper units removed but cant get the pump housing off. Lots of water in the upper unit oil reserve... just keeps getting better.

160 doesnt seem to hot...
 
"ok. got the pump out and the

"ok. got the pump out and the impeller off. doesnt seem in to bad of shape. Havent found where the water is coming from so i will just put it all back together...

yes, I will put in new gaskets and impeller.

So back to the original problem of not starting when warmed up...

plugs are thick with soot, but still starts just fine once cooled down."
 
"huh? not starting when warmed

"huh? not starting when warmed up? that wasn't the original propblem...
re: milky oil in upper - change the seal on the steering shaft, and then make sure the upper gear box is shimmed properly in the exh. housing. There should be .030" up and down movement (pry it gently with a screwdriver) of the upper with the top bolted down. those are 2 common sources of water in the upper. 160 is fine. fuel filter, fuel pump, carb float sticking some ideas...a fuel pressure gauge between the pump and carb tells a lot but pita to plumb one in..."
 
"can anyone give me part numbe

"can anyone give me part numbers for seal kits for both the water pump and the steering shaft. Also that .030" is between what two components? can you show me a picture? Will Clymer show this? Hoping to get one tomorrow.

Oil was beyond milky, clear water and oil. Also had oil leaking out the top screw as if there was to much oil..."
 
".030 within the ekhaust housi

".030 within the ekhaust housing. When the upper gear housing is mounted to the lower, it is "clamped" into the lower by the top cover. Under the center of that cover, is a recess in the top of the upper which has shims in it. the dipstick actually goes right down in the center of those shims when everything's back together...not sure about Clymer, but the Seloc manual has the info. I think fuel pressure is usually around 4 or 5 psi out of a mechanical fuel pump. shop.evinrude.com has exploded diagrams and all part numbers. You can bring the numbers back here to marineengine and plug them in- the parts might be a bit cheaper here."
 
"if the upper ran with water i

"if the upper ran with water in it, the gears and bearings may very well be junk..youll need to inspect everything...bearings with rust don't live long...putting oil in doesn't "heal them"...some expect it's like a plant that needs water and the oil will make it better, but pitting on mating gear surfaces, or bearing races usually fails catastrophically within a few hours of running"
 
"bearings all look good. Not

"bearings all look good. Not sure they ran for more than 5 min. before I cut everything off.

Also, I was thinking more about the potential fuel problem... Runs fine for about 5 minutes at 80-100% full open, then without cutting throttle starts to loose power. Not sure a sticking float would cause that.

Also, when idling I am hearing what sounds like a scrap (I am concerned it is a cylinder wall or valve). goes away with a slight increase on the throttle. I really dont want to pull the head and look..."
 
"tried pulling the flame arres

"tried pulling the flame arrestor off with no change.

Here are the symptoms:

1. Boat runs fine at just above idle speeds all day long. (putting up and down the river)
2. After running opened up and then slowing it would quit and not restart.
3. Changed coil, points, plugs, cap, rotor.
4. Took back out, this time when running at 3/4 throttle after 10 mins or so looses power, smokes and quits. wont restart.
5. Found alot of water in the upper unit so I just overhauled that, now back to the engine...

Also put fresh gas in."
 
you metioned sooty plugs and s

you metioned sooty plugs and sounds to me like either a fuel pump(mech.)dumping fuel in throught the line that plugs into top of carb. or the carb is floding .good luck fuel would be the cause of the black smoke
 
"Ok, I pulled the carb and fou

"Ok, I pulled the carb and found that where it connects to the intake manifold there is a gap like the carb doesnt fit this manifold properly. Can someone take a look and let know what you think?
193924.jpg
"
 
"I dont think that matters as

"I dont think that matters as long as the edge around the barells seal, a poor seal here would give you idle issues vacuum leak etc. not the problems you are experiencing. I know you changed the coil but possibly you have a faulty one. Do you have spark once it quits when hot?, if not try cooling the coil the next time this happens and see if it helps, also double check all connections most importantly the grounds."
 
carb rebuilt and reinstalled.

carb rebuilt and reinstalled. When removing the throttle linkage the spring that returns the carb to idle broke. I am looking for a replacement if anyone knows where to find.
 
Back
Top