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AQ145A Antifreeze in Cylinder

M

modemagic

Member
"I'm pretty sure I know th

"I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this, but when troubleshooting my no start condition, I noticed that I had a bit of antifreeze dripping from the exhaust bellows on the outdrive. That seemed really wierd to me, so I started pulling spark plugs. On the number two cylinder, (going from bow to transom) When I would crank the motor testing to verify spark, I noticed that some coolant shot out of the spark plug hole.

Typically from what I know about cars, is that it's either head gasket time, or new motor time. Is this correct, or am I jumping to conclusions?

At this point I have not removed the valve cover or head, making sure that my suspicions are correct."
 
"I gather it is a fresh water

"I gather it is a fresh water cooled with a heat exchanger, if it was definately coolant/antifreeze and not raw water that came out then it can only appear from the sealed cooling system, therefore you have most likely got a head gasket or head problem. Have you done a compression test, if not make sure you do one. The compression on the suspect cylinder should be low if theres a gasket or head problem.
good luck"
 
"Paul,

Yeah, it was defin

"Paul,

Yeah, it was definitely antifreeze.
I also noticed antifreeze when I loosened the oil cooler top (antifreeze on the bottom) as well. My oil is not the common milkshake though. I would think that if it were a headgasket, it would have obviously done it when the motor was running, which would contaminate the oil and turn it into a milkshake. Any thoughts?"
 
Compression test is as follows

Compression test is as follows:

CYL 1 = 85 PSI
CYL 2 = 0 PSI (needle did move around though)
CYL 3 = 30 PSI
CYL 4 = 60 PSI
 
"Could there be something wron

"Could there be something wrong with the intake manifold? Reviewing other posts leads me to believe that the head gasket is not very common, but more so the intake manifold risers and such."
 
"Dave,
if you have no compres

"Dave,
if you have no compression on cylinder 2, you have to pull the head anyway as there is obviously a more serious problem. Just because there is no water/oil fudging it doesnt mean you dont have a headgasket problem. Gasket could have gone between the water jacket and cylinder, therefore the only water that would make its way to your oil is the water that gets past the piston rings (hardly any!!!)
As el pescador has said, its unlikely that you have a problem with your manifolds, this would never cause loss of compression anyway. Pull the head off and you will probably find the problem is staring you in the face. Let us know how you get on.
Good luck"
 
Thanks for making a bit of sen

Thanks for making a bit of sense of it. Seems like this is the only forum where anyone even wants to bother to respond to my problem.

Head gasket is on the way and will give updates as to progress. Does anyone have an electronic copy of the service manual for this motor?
 
"I already have that one in my

"I already have that one in my arsenal of PDF's. I was hoping to find a PDF version of a shop manual for my motor, so far though, I've come up empty."
 
Some public libraries (at

Some public libraries (at least in Canada) do offer online access to books (including repair manuals) to people with a library card. Don't know if that is the case in your area.
 
"How prone are the timing belt

"How prone are the timing belts to breaking? I'm wondering if while I am in there if I should go ahead and change it as well. According to the hour meter, there is 492 hours on it, but I cant be sure that the meter even works.
"
 
"I believe the recommended int

"I believe the recommended interval for changing the timing belt is 500 hours, so it seems that now is the right time. Also, you may want to check the condition of the gears. If they are pitted, consider replacing them or the new belt won't last. You can try to get a set from an autowrecker, as there is no difference between the "marine" and "automotive" versions.

Keen in mind that, if the timing belt was to break with the engine running, valves and pistons will not be damaged, as yours is a non-interference engine."
 
"While I'm in there, might

"While I'm in there, might as well do a bit of preventitive maintenance I guess. For the AQ145A, is there a timing belt from a local store that would work? Or a motor that is the automotive equlivilant?

Non interferance is good, but no point in tearing down the motor twice.


What are your thoughts on a bad head gasket showing some compression still?"
 
"I have the head gasket ordere

"I have the head gasket ordered and on the way. I was wondering if there was an automotive equivilent to the aq145a.

Do you know if the spark plug wires are the same?

What are your thoughts of one of the electronic ignitions that you see advertised on eBay? While I've got the motor tore down, might as well do it up.
"
 
"1) Yes, the 244, 1983-84

"1) Yes, the 244, 1983-84 Volvo (2.3 liters engine).

2) The should fit, except perhaps for the ignition coil lead.

3) Search the forum for "hot spark" and Pertronix, then you will see what the comments from the forum participants have been to date."
 
"Sounds good. It should be po

"Sounds good. It should be possible to remove the cylinder head by removing the timing belt, but not actually removing the camshaft, is that correct?

I got the exhaust manifold removed, as well as the cooling system, (heat exchanger, etc) but then the rain started and I don't have room down at my shop to put the boat in. (Too many other projects)

Is there a trick to releasing tension from the tensioner of the timing belt? Also, are there markings for TDC on the cam and crankshafts?

I'll be posting pictures later of my progress."
 
"Dave,
make sure you time the

"Dave,
make sure you time the engine up before removing the timing belt. Once timed you can make your own easy to see marks (snap on tool box touch up paint works a treat!).
Try not to turn the engine while its in bits, as you will only have to set it all up again.
You shouldnt have to touch the camshaft at all, just remove the head with the cam in situe.
Im havent worked on one of these for a while and cant remember where the factory timing marks are, i would have a good read of the manual and it should tell you how to de-tension the belt aswell. Make sure you check the bearings in the tensioner and any idlers etc, if in doubt replace them. Dont forget when youve got the new belt on rotate the engine 2 turns by hand and re-check your timing marks."
 
"Paul,

Found the timing mar

"Paul,

Found the timing marks on the camshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley. (See pictures)

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I'm having problems with this tensioner however. I can't seem to figure out how to release tension on it to remove the timing belt.

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Anyone know how?"
 
"Have you considered buying th

"Have you considered buying the Seloc or Clymer repair manuals. It is explained in a cystal clear fashion in either of them.
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"
 
"Well,I went to the library, b

"Well,I went to the library, but almost all of the books of that sort were destroyed in the recent flood. (I live in Davenport, IA) Every place I checked wanted rediculious money for the manual and shipping around here is a bit sketchy.
I was hoping to find a quick answer. It looks as though the spring that keeps tension is on a rod with holes in it. Not sure if using a punch tool to back the spring down is the answer or not."
 
 
"I couldn't find one on eB

"I couldn't find one on eBay for that kind of money, (I think I misspelled 'seloc' and I wasn't giving the local marine the 'bargain price of 97 bucks' that much for it."
 
"Dave,
you need to loosen the

"Dave,
you need to loosen the belt tensioner nut, then compress the spring with a pair of channel-lock/waterpump pliers, then insert a punch or drill bit into the shaft hole to keep the spring compressed. Then rotate the tensioner and lift the guide pin from the hole in the block. Then remove the belt.
As El pescador has said, a clymer or seloc manual is priceless when your doing DIY repairs. I would strongly advice you get one asap. You will definatly need one later for torque figures for the head bolts etc etc.
Good luck"
 
"Ok all, I got the cylinder he

"Ok all, I got the cylinder head removed from the block today. Here's the pictures of it:

http://www.dragginframe.com/images/Boat/IM000832.JPG

http://www.dragginframe.com/images/Boat/IM000833.JPG

http://www.dragginframe.com/images/Boat/IM000834.JPG


I don't see anything wrong with the head or head gasket. Or am I simply not seeing something. I have the gasket, so either way I'll be changing it, since it isn't returnable. Could it be the intake manifold or something as well is bad?"
 
"Here is the million dollar qu

"Here is the million dollar question: if the head gasket looks good and you don't see anything wrong with it, then why do you think that all the combustion chambers and piston heads are sooty except for #3?

What do you think has been washing the soot away?
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"
 
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