70b Evinrude 115 losing sparkthanks Joe

" Joe, I checked the things yo

" Joe, I checked the things you mentioned and then some. I have a good spark at a 1/4" gap. the sensor checked 5.5 ohms wire to wire,and infinity to 0.0 ohms wire to ground(per the Clymer's manual)while testing the sensor circuit.No sign of loose or broken wires to advance plate. The pulse pack also checked good using the 12v. light test. I also did the ignition safety circuit test and safety circuit leakage test. In the ignition test, term # 7 was 8.2v. while cranking, and term's # 1,2,3,4 was 3.5 while cranking. In the leakage test term # 7 was 12.4v. with and without term's # 1,2,3,4 connected(according to clymer,safety switch is bad)? If so will this cause the high rpm misfire? I continued and checked the rectifier per the book and this is what I found. Infinity on all three wires with test leads black to ground and red to wires, and the other way the red wire was 20.0 ohms, and both yellows were 9.5 ohms(clymer says they should be infinity or 0.0 ohms). Is the rectifier bad as well? Sorry for the long message, but I figure the more info I give the more help I can get! Thanks in advance Joe, Marty "

"Marty....The safety circuit i

"Marty....The safety circuit item (clipper circuit). It seems to me that OMC recommended that it be removed from those engines that incorporated it, but I'm having a problem remembering exactly what they said. Perhaps another tech will jump in with more info on that item. Personally I'd get rid of it as, if I remember correctly, its purpose was to protect the powerpack from a open and/or intermittent battery circuit... but it created more problems than it cured.

The rectifier ohm readings.... We're not too concerned about what the actual readings are. We are concerned as to if we get a reading at all or not when we should or not such as:
1 - Between ground and yellow, then between ground and yellow/gray = a identical reading. Between ground and red = a slightly lower reading.
1A - Reversing the meter leads = same test as above = absolutely no reading on all three wires.
2 - Between red and yellow, then between red and yellow/gray = a identical reading.
2A - Reverse meter leads = same test as above = absolutely no reading on all wires.
Any deviation from the above = The rectifier is faulty!

Joe"

" Hey Joe, The rectifier check

" Hey Joe, The rectifier checks good. I also went back and checked the anti-reverse spring just to be sure it was snug. It seems to be working fine. I would like to remove the safety switch to see if it helps the problem. Can you suggest how I should wire the terminal board without it? Thanks Joe, Marty "

"Marty... That anti reverse sp

"Marty... That anti reverse spring should have a little grease lubricant on it. OMC recommends type "D" (whatever that is) but I would think that any high temperture grease would be fine. The "Safety Switch" (Clipper Circuit)should have four wires leading from it... Yellow, Yellow/Gray, Purple, and Black. These wires should have been wired onto the terminal board in a "Parallel" fashion, not a "Series" fashion (wires are simply wired on top of other wires, not between). As such, removing the safety circuit does not disconnect anything, it simply eliminates the safety circuit. Bottom line = Remove the safety circuit wires from the terminal board and tape them aside, or remove the safety switch/clipper circuit and set it aside.

Joe "

" Marty... As a reminder, you

" Marty... As a reminder, you are torquing that flywheel nut to 105 foot pounds aren't you? Anything less could result in a sheared C/S key.

Joe "

" Joe, The A/R spring is lube

" Joe, The A/R spring is lubed, and the flywheel nut is torqued(learned that lesson a while back). According to the ign. diagram in the book as well as what I see looking at my terminal board,#7 is P/pack input wire and 12v. wire from safety switch(purple). Can I bridge #7 and #8 to keep 12v. with key on? Thanks, Marty "

"Marty.... If there's any

"Marty.... If there's any way you could attach that wiring diagram to a e-mail, I'd appreciate it. I'm sure the one you have is correct but I don't have that exact one with me. I know that from memory #7 terminal is a purple wire(s) with a black stripe but I can't remember exactly where they went or where they came from. But to answer your question.... you would need to make a slight modification to have 12v applied to the powerpack when the ignition switch is in the on position, but you wouldn't want 12v thrown where it might not be required.

Joe"

" Joe, I'd be glad to send

" Joe, I'd be glad to send the diagram I have,but I need to know the email address to send it to. I just came in from another round of tests. I removed the safety switch, but there was no change. Same problem as before.I put the P/pack input wire from terminal #7 on terminal #8(12v. key on). Two questions Joe. (1)Will the P/pack cause the problem I'm having(start and run fine low to mid rpm, but misfire mid to high rpm)? (2) Can the P/pack work fine one minute and not at all the next? The reason I ask is, twice while running the engine today it shut off on it's own. The first time, I checked for spark and there was nothing. I connected the 12v. light to the P/pack, still nothing. Both times I lightly tapped the P/pack housing with a screwdriver handle and I got the spark back. It has'nt quit again(10 starts). Is it just coincidence, or am I missing something here. Thanks Joe, Marty "

"Marty.... For my e-mail addre

"Marty.... For my e-mail address, all you had to do was to click on my name at the blue header at the top of this (or any) of my messages. Same holds true to your name in that blue field. However, you did what I was going to suggest, connecting the pack wire from # 7 to # 8 which would throw 12v to the pack whenever the ign switch is on. It dawned on me later that the purple/black wires that I mentioned were the ones that lead from the safety switch, and leading to the powerpack (12v supply). Term #8 and #9, if memory serves me right are tied together and are a 12v source when the ignition switch is on.

At any rate, the test you did as per your last message proves that the safety switch/clipper circuit is okay, as it cured nothing, so you can change that back as it was, and change the pack wire back to #7 also.

The problem you encountered (no spark) and corrected by tapping on the p/pack indicates that the pack may indeed be intermittent. It could also indicate (if you're lucky) that you have a poor ground. There should be a solid ground between the powerpack and the powerhead. There's a possibility that you have a ground going from the pack to a stud (or something) that's holding the bracket that the pack's attached to, but that possibly isn't a great gound point right now.

That pack is superceeded by a new type universal pack which lists for approximately $380.00 . For what it's worth, I have two left in stock that I'm selling for $235.00 ea which includes shipping etc. Hopefully you don't need one but if you do, I have it. [email protected]

Joe"