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Evinrude 99 Sail Bogging Down

J

Jeff Russell

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" I bought an Evinrude 9.9 Sai

" I bought an Evinrude 9.9 Sail and I have a few needs. First, how can I determine the Year of this motor. Second, I am having trouble with it when I give it throttle...it dies out. If I pull the choke out I improve it's running, but I cannot regulate it. I do not have a manual for adjustments. I have replaced the fuel line, changed fuel tanks, rechecked mix. Any help? "
 
"Jeff.... On the port transom

"Jeff.... On the port transom bracket there is a plate with the model and serial number. The model number is what defines the year & hp. There is also a quarter size core plug on the powerhead that should contain those same numbers. Get that model number to us and we'll pinpoint the year for you.

Your problem is caused by a fouled carburetor. This is quite common with engines that sit for a spell, especially small hp outboards. The high speed jet is a fixed jet and requires no adjustment. The knob on the front of your carb is for the slow speed. By pulling the knob off, then putting it back on so that you can turn it in beyond the stop on the front of hood pan, you can make a count of how far you have to turn it in until it seats. Make a note of it. Now, remove the carb, clean it, rebuild it, then reinstall it, then insert that s/s needle valve to it's original setting. At a dead idle, you may now have to adjust it somewhat for the smoothest idle but that should give you no problem.

Joe
"
 
" Joe,

I have the sam


" Joe,

I have the same problem, for the second time this season, with my early 70's 25 HP. You may remember helping me, I'm the guy that had the missing threaded cylinder in the carb. After cleaning, and then rebuilding, it ran great (thanks Joe).

Since then it spent a few weeks just hanging off the boat. I started it up in the middle of last week; it ran well, and after 20 minutes or so I put it away confident that it was in good running condition.

Over the weekend, I tried to fire it up again for some trolling, and after 15 minutes of pulling (choke on/off, throttle, pumping the bulb, checking the filter) it started, but wouldn't run smoothly. After it warmed up it got to the point where I could sorta keep it running, but it didn't have enough power to turn the prop (even at full throttle) without stalling.

Yesterday I drained the carb, took out the low speed needle, sprayed some carb cleaner down the hole, put the needle back to where it was (1 & 1/3 out), pulled the fuel hose off the carb, checked the flow, and the fuel pump (which was fine). It idled much more smoothly, and would turn the prop. The only problem was that, even at full throttle, in neutral, I couldn't get the RPM's I would expect out of it. It didn't seem to run very smoothly at full throttle either (best at half throttle, ok at idle), and would almost stall when I went from full throttle to idle too quickly. I tried adjusting the low speed jet, which made a difference in the performance, but wouldn't cure anything.

So, I checked the compression (about 100 each), pulled off the carb, and today I'm rebuilding again.

There are two things I'm hoping you can help me with; the first is I'm wondering if there's any reliable way (along with running it once a week and a good inline filter) to treat the carb so it doesn't clog up. If not, are there any engines, around this range, that work well when run only occasionally? I only use this motor as a kicker, so when it gets run for real, I will REALLY need it.

The other thing I'm wondering is, when I get it back together tonight, if nothing changes, what is my next step?

Thanks Joe,

Jon "
 
"Jon... You mentioned the comp

"Jon... You mentioned the compression but not the spark so I'm assuming you checked that too and it's okay. It wasn't that long ago that you had the threaded barrel problem, and the carburetor shouldn't have gummed up in that length of time. It's possible that you may have overlooked something in the carb previously (slight bit of varnish etc) but that doesn't necessarily hold true. If, when you had the carb apart this time, you came across small particles of a black substance, I would be more inclined to think that the interior of the fuel line between the fuel pump and the carb is deteriorating, and the fuel flow is taking the debris into the carb. At any rate, your problem also sounds like a fouled carb to me. As far as your next step.... lets see what happens first.

Joe"
 
" Joe-
Thank You. That is a


" Joe-
Thank You. That is a great starting point. Any pointers on where to get a rebuild kit?

The model # is E10ELCSE

Again, appreciate the help. First outboard...have attacked many a lawn mower etc...but never one of these. "
 
"Jeff.... OMC's code is th

"Jeff.... OMC's code is the word "INTRODUCES", with each letter equaling a number ie I=1, N=2, etc. The CS in your model number equals 80 so your engine is a 1980. Any Evinrude/Johnson dealer should have the carb kit, but there are many third party companies that manufacture excellent marine parts... outboard, I/O, etc. Two of which come to mind are "Aqua Power" of New Orleans, LA.... and "Sierra" of Litchfield, IL and of Clearwater, FL. Make a search for them as one may turn up rather close to you.

Joe
"
 
Thank You! I will let you kn

Thank You! I will let you know how I make out. I appreciate your input.
 
" Joe,

Actually, no, I h


" Joe,

Actually, no, I haven't checked the spark; I assumed that there was spark, and that nothing changed there between then and now. So, I will look into that tomorrow, and get back to you, but here's how it went today:

I found a little varnish around what the float seats into, which is what I guess I'll call a jet looking thing that unthreads with a flat-head screw driver. That's it, no specs, just a nice clean carb. I blew it out with carb cleaner.

After studying this carb for a while I wasn't able to find any other jets - just what I was calling the low-speed jet. Is this correct, or is there something there that is not so obvious?

I believe there is still a plug I have never pulled out, one of those aluminum jobs that require you to punch a hole through them, and then rip em out, but that's going to require a re-build kit.

Anyway, I put the carb back on, and the motor started on my second pull. It was idleing fine, and responded well when I shifted into gear, in the tank. It sounds better, but it still doesn't respond quite the way I expect it to when I open it up in neutral. I want to hear it run-away a little, but it just levels off at a high RPM, like it is governed or something. If it was a 4-stroke I'd say it sounded great.

Also, it really doesn't like it when I throttle hard and then release, just a little too touchy. I tried adjusting the mix, and it seemed to run about the same from anywhere around 3/4 turns out to 2 turns out, but I think it likes the 1 1/3 best. The needle is a little worn, and I don't think it help's the adjustment, but I think there is still something here I'm missing.

So, I am checking spark next, hope to find a nice, cheap, broken something
. Any ideas for me? Is there any possibility of a spark advance/timing issue? Thanks again Joe,

Jon "
 
"Jon.... You said "I'l

"Jon.... You said "I'll call a jet looking thing that unthreads with a flat-head screw driver." That's the fixed "High Speed" jet... if it's not perfectly clean, it will affect the high end speed. Best to remove it to clean it thoroughly. The "Slow Speed" jet is that adjustable one that the knob pops onto.

Then you said "it still doesn't respond quite the way I expect it to when I open it up in neutral. I want to hear it run-away a little,". It doesn't work that way Jon. It operates exactly the way you said it did. If you could open it up in neutral, you would chance a runaway engine and possibly blow that powerhead.

The "Slow Speed" adjustment is just for the idle setting and has no effect on the Fixed High Speed jet. However if that s/speed jet is set too lean, you might experience a hesitation when applying throttle.

Joe
"
 
" Joe,
Ok.. now I&#3


" Joe,
Ok.. now I'm confused.. The "Jet looking thing" is what the rubber-tipped pointed thing (what I call the float) seats into. I thought this just regulated fuel intake into the carb? Here's my version:

When the bowl is full, the hollow plastic thing floats, closing the hole by pushing the pointed thing into the "jet looking thing", so no fuel comes in, as the bowl is emptied, the plastic thing falls, opening the hole letting more fuel in... and so on..

Am I completely wrong, did you not understand what "thing" I was talking about, or does the "thing" serve two purposes? I really ought to get my "things" straight so I can stop talking like this..

And about the run-away protection, never would have guessed that they were doing that in the early 70's... is this included on all models? I remember almost destroying my 1982 johson 70 by doing that in gear, last time I ever throttled an outboard when in gear on flush attachment; how does it work? Does it sense neutral position, or just limit RPM's?.. It doesn't seem like my merc has any protection like that..

Thanks,

Jon "
 
" The "Jet looking thing&#

" The "Jet looking thing".... I thought you were describing the high speed jet that screws into the center nozzle of the carb upper body. The "Rebber Tipped" thing is a float needle valve assy whose purpose is shut off the flow of fuel when the float rises to a certain point.

The "Run Away Protection"..... No, it doesn't sense the neutral position. Neutral has a mechanical lock out to restrict the throttle. Sure you can advance to full throttle when in gear on a flushette.... for what purpose?? That's taking a chance on destroying the engine. "
 
" Joe,

Thanks again;


" Joe,

Thanks again; I haven't looked at it yet, but now I think I understand how the neutral lock out mechanism works; last night I was actually trying to figure if/why that assembly (under the fly-wheel) that turns as the throttle is applied appeared not be turning all the way. Guess that's it.

But, now there appears to be some other problem. When I ran it on Tuesday, all was well, there was only that throttle problem; yesterday it wouldn't run smoothe for more than a couple minutes, then it would run rough, cough, shake around alot and stall. I found that if I keep pressure on the line by pumping the bulb, it runs fine.

Also, while watching the clear inline filter, which is completly vertical, I can see the line somehow filling with air; I guess it's an air-leak in the line, or could the fuel pump (which does seem to work) be doing this?

I've also been noticing greenish soapy looking gunk forming around the butterfly in the carb.. I'm wondering if it's just from air mixing with the fuel as I use the squeeze bulb to put the carb under more pressure than it is designed for, or if I have water from the cooling system getting mixed with fuel, and being pushed out the carb... Have you ever seen anything like this?

About the high-speed jet; I have never been able to figure out where/what the high speed jet is in this carb. The only thing I can't identify, that may be removable, is a brass tube that comes either from top or bottom near the center, inside of the carb; this tube has a notched end, is it the high-speed jet?

As for wanting to make the engine run away, I didn't realize, until now, that there was some type of protection, so I allways thought that I really had it opened up in neutral - which should make the engine run away, and since it wasn't I thought there was something wrong. I even tried just opening it up with my finger, but that must not advance the ignition, which would keep it from running away?

Jon "
 
" If the engine runs when you

" If the engine runs when you pump the primer bulb, and there's no fuel or air leaks, the fuel pump is faulty. The brass notched tube you speak of is something I do not recognize as being in a 9.9 or 15hp carb. On the later models, a small high speed jet screwed into the side of a plastic like fitting that sat on the bottom of the nozzle tube area. The earlier models had threads on the bottom of the nozzle tube area whereas the high speed jet screwed directly into it. I've lost rtack of what year that engine is. What's the model number? "
 
" Joe,

I need to get


" Joe,

I need to get you a model/serial number for you, but the engine I'm talking about is the early 70's 25 HP; Sorry about that, I should've re-stated which engine I was talking about,

Jon "
 
" The h/speed jet is in back o

" The h/speed jet is in back of that 7/16" hex head bold/screw, near the center of the carb. "
 
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