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1970 Evinrude Triumph 60 continued

roger

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" By Roger on Saturday, August

" By Roger on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 11:42 pm: Edit

Replaced screw in ends on plug wires and tested out, Clean carbs and good fuel flow, plugs gapped and set. - NO SPARK
Trying to get running after sitting for 5 years and it cranks great, just sputters intermittantly. Almost, but not quite starting - or so it seems.
Any ideas??

By josh on Sunday, August 12, 2001 - 01:14 am: Edit


if you say it is trying to start them you must be getting spark of you may have a weak spark try pulling the pluggins in a drak room or at nite and ground them to the cylinder head and check for spark if you do have a spark them you would have a fouled or fualty carb also check for compression it should be over a 100p.s.i and not very more then 5 psi between cylinders let us know what you find josh

By sparky on Sunday, August 12, 2001 - 05:09 pm: Edit


Remove flywheel,clean vent housing,clean and set points to 0.010", check anti reversing spring .Clean rotor and reassemble. Sparky

By Joereeves (Joereeves) on Sunday, August 12, 2001 - 07:56 pm: Edit


Roger.... If that engine makes any attempt to start, there must be some trace of ignition. First things first though.... check the compression. It should be in the 100 pound range and even on all cylinders. Remove the spark plugs and turn the key to the on position. Insert a medium philips screwdriver into the s/plug boots and have someone crank the engine while you hold the screwdriver shank approximately 1/4" away from the block. The spark should jump that 1/4" gap with a strong blue flame. If you have compression and good spark, then I would suspect that your problem is due to fouled carburetors. Let us know what you find.

Joe

By Roger on Sunday, August 12, 2001 - 10:20 pm: Edit


Well here's an update.
It no longer tries to fire or sputter.
When it got dark tonight we pulled the plugs and checked the wires and found no spark.
However there was a small light spark from behind the coil that leapt toward the coil mounting yoke. It was a weak spark, but a spark none the less.
I have cleaned the bowls on the carb and do get fuel into the cylinders.
Checking the compression today shows #1 @ 165, #2 @ 160, and #3 @ 155 psi. This is well above the anticipated 100 psi.
Battery is neew and strong and she cranks at full speed.
Any other ideas before I try replacing the coil.

By josh on Sunday, August 12, 2001 - 11:13 pm: Edit


i would say that is your problen of why you have no spark

By Joereeves (Joereeves) on Sunday, August 12, 2001 - 11:52 pm: Edit


Roger... Obviously the coil is shorting out to ground, but here's a test you can perform on the "Battery Capacitance Discharge System" which is a fancy OMC name for a battery powered pulse pack (powerpack). Using a 12v bulb, the type that looks like a flashlight bulb, solder a length of wire to the side of it.... the other end of which will go to a ground at some point on the powerhead. Solder another length of wire to the positive prong of the bulb.... the other end of which will be connected to the wire terminal that leads from the powerpack to the coil primary lead (usually a blue wire).

Make sure that you do have 12v applied to the p/pack when the key switch is in the on position.

With the s/plugs out and the key on, have someone crank the engine, or crank it via a jumper at the starter solenoid while you watch the bulb closely (CLOSELY). If the bulb glows even ever so slightly when cranking, the p/pack is good.

Joe

By Roger on Monday, August 13, 2001 - 08:38 pm: Edit


Well we replaced the coil today and there is absolutely no difference.
Was told i could check points (rough) by pulling black/white wire and testing with DC voltmeter while hand turning engine.
Was also suggested by local shop that input voltage to power pack could drop too low during cranking. What could cause that?


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