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1966 60hp with no spark

butch

New member
I have just inherited a 1966 6

I have just inherited a 1966 60hp vxl-12r that hasn't run in at least 2 years. I am new to outboards. the motor has no spark. does there need to be 12v power going into the wires on the Right side of the distributer (black box on back of motor. any help would be appreciated.
 
"If the spark plug wires lead

"If the spark plug wires lead out of the bottom of that distributor, the unit is a magneto. In which case you DO NOT want any voltage being applied to it. I email you a diagram of the type wiring system the magneto syystem would consist of."
 
Thanks Joe that helped a lot.

Thanks Joe that helped a lot. I have not worked with Magnetos much. What would I need to do to check the system to get spark. the points look good.
 
"Disconnect the wire that atta

"Disconnect the wire that attaches to the side of the magneto which leads to the engines wiring harness. Leave the wire attached at that terminal that leads upwards to the ignition points.

Remove the timing belt so that you can spin the pulley by hand.... clockwise as looking down at the pulley.

Remove the spark plug leads from the spark plugs and connect those plug wires to a spark tester. Set the tester gap to 1/4".

Clean the points with laquer thinner, acetone, tuner cleaner, whatever you have that would clean them thoroughly and leave no trace of oil etc.

Set the points on their high lobe so that a .020 gauge goes thru but a .022 will not.

Spin the pulley with your hand as fast as possible. The spark should jump that 1/4" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP!

If no spark, remove the dist cap and connect the spark tester directly to the coils high tension button. If you now have spark, in all probability the rotor is shorting out to the shaft it sits upon. In which case, replace the rotor.

There are two different type rotors. The magneto uses OMC #580260 which has a sort of hook end to it. The automotive type rotor uses OMC #580338 which has a normal squared off end to it.

Let us know how you make out."
 
Those magnetos are very good.

Those magnetos are very good. Remove the coil and inspect for cracks/burn thru.Clean points and replace condenser.You could also have the coil tested with a MERC-O-TRONIC ignition analyzer.
 
Thanks for the info I did get

Thanks for the info I did get it to have the good blue spark. The points were set a little wide. I didn't think about it till after I removed the belt. What will I need to do to make sure it is in time when I put the belt back on.
Before I start it I know I need to check the lower unit and water pump. Could you possable help me with that or should I start a new Question.
Again Thanks.
 
"Water pump.... Halfway down t

"Water pump.... Halfway down the exgaust housing, between the powerhead and the lower unit, there's a plate attached with two screws, remove it. You'll see another plate inside, remove it also. Now, inside the housing, you'll see the brass shift connector. Remove only one of the 3/8" hex head bolts that retain it. All you need to do now is to remove the lower unit retaining bolts to drop the lower unit. The pump area will be obvious.

The timing procedure..... I'll send you the servce procedure (4 pages) from the manual on both the magneto and automotive systems via email."
 
"Thanks!!! I got every thing t

"Thanks!!! I got every thing timed thanks to the service procedures you sent. had to put a bearing in the lower unit. cleaned carbs, checked water pump and last night my son and I fired it off. runs great. I need to set the low speed because it will not idle slow. At least is run good I can fine tune it with time. Again thanks a lot."
 
"(Carburetor Adjustments -

"(Carburetor Adjustments - Older V/4 Downdraft Carb)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: The early model downdraft carburetors incorporated "Adjustable High Speed Jets". The later model downdraft carburetors used "Fixed High Speed Jets". Follow the below instructions accordingly.

NOTE: If you do not have adjustable high speed jets, ignore those paragraphs pertaining to same...... BUT do make sure that you manually inspect and clean the two brass fixed high speed jets which would be located in back of the two 7/16" slotted hex head bolts in the bottom front portion of the float chamber.

Lift the center High Speed Control lever and turn it so that the point faces forward, resting on the high ridge. This will disengage the lever control gear from the individual high speed jets (slots). Have the slow speed needle valve knobs installed upside down so that they can be turned without encountering any obstruction.

Gently seat each of the High Speed needle valves, then back each one out one (1) turn. Gently seat each of the Slow Speed needle valves, then back each one out one and one half (1-1/2) turns. NOTE... have the jam nut on the s/speed needles snug so that viberation won't have any effect on them, but loose enough so that you can turn them without a great amout of effort.

(High Speed)
With a reliable person at the wheel, and one kneeling in front of the engine, start the engine (yes, it will run lousy with the above initial needle valve settings), put it into forward gear, and apply full throttle. Start with the High Speed adjustment on the left using a screwdrive that properly fits the slot.

(High Speed Adjustments)
At full throttle, with the proper size screwdriver, slowly start turning one of the H/S needles in segments of 1/8 turn, waiting momentarily for the engine to respond, then repeat turning. You will reach a point where the engine will start to die out. At that point, back that needle valve out approximately 1/4 turn. Now, go to the other High Speed needle valve and repeat that procedure. At some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest high speed setting (you can now lower the throttle rpm). That will have both high speed needle valves set correctly, and at that point you can lift that center lever adjustment of that high ridge, keeping it lifted until the point is facing the engine, then lower it into its proper position. (When you turn that lever now, you're adjusting both High Speed needle valves at the same time.)

(Slow Speed Adjustments)
Now, lowering the rpms of course, take the engine out of gear and set the throttle just to where the engine will stay running. Again, in segments of 1/8 turn, slowly start turning in one of the slow speed needle valves, waiting a few seconds between each turning for the engine to respond. As you turn the s/speed needles in, the rpms will increase..... and as it does, lower the rpms to where the engine will just stay running (otherwise the rpms will climb quite high). You will reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mjild backfire). At that point, back the needle valve out 1/4 turn. Repeat the process with the remaining slow speed needle. Again, at some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest setting. When finished, tighten the jam nut somewhat, then remove and reinstall the s/speed knobs correctly (right side up)."
 
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