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b89 Evinrude 225 wignition problem

tom77

New member
I have an '89 Evinrude 22

I have an '89 Evinrude 225 that won't start - no spark to any cylinder. I've changed the ignition switch and suspect the kill switch may be bad. What's the best way to test this? Anything else I should check before breaking down and taking it to the shop? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
 
"Tom.... Remove the s/plugs. D

"Tom.... Remove the s/plugs. Disconnect the large main red connector (wiring harness) at the engine. The ignition is self contained and needs no outside power for energizing it. Use a jumper at the starter solenoid (bat side of sol to small term of sol) to engage the starter. Check the spark. If you now have spark, the problem is with something in the control box wiring harness such as you suspect. The kill switch is nothing but an extension of the ignition switch ignition shut off (short out) setup. To eliminate the kill switch as a test, simply disconnect the kill switch wire, reconnect the red plug and retry.

If however, when cranking the engine with the red connector unpluged, you still do not ignition, the problem is at the engine end. Let me know what you find.

Joe
"
 
" Joe - thanks for the tip. T

" Joe - thanks for the tip. Tried cranking the engine with the red connector unplugged and I still don't have any spark. There's no problem turning the engine over, with the switch or the jumper. What can I try next? Any reason to still suspect the kill switch? "
 
"Tom... No, with the red plug

"Tom... No, with the red plug disconnected, you have eliminated everything from that red plug forward such as the ign switch, kill switch, all wiring, etc etc.

On the starboard (right) side of the engine, look at the shift linkage that goes under the carb area. You'll see a shift cutout switch there. Follow the black wire that has a yellow stripe (black/yellow) from that switch back to a rubber plug. Pulling that plug apart (disconnecting it) disables that switch. The purpose of the switch is to momentary knock out the spark on three (3) cylinders in order to shift in and out of gear easily. Keep in mind that this switch only affects three cylinders and shouldn't be able to knock out all six cylinders but I thought you might want to know how to test that switch.

At the powerpack, there is also a black/yellow wire that leads to a rubber plug that you can disconnect. When you disconnect this plug (black/yellow) it eliminates the engine wiring harness. If you have ignition with this one disconnected, that means there's a problem with the engine wiring harness... and if so, it's usually in that red plug.

If your engine has more than one black/yellow wire/plug and your unsure which leads to where, unplug them all as the purpose of those black/yellow wires is to kill the ignition when you turn the key off... and if there's a short in that engine wiring harness, any of those plugs might lead you to the problem.

Look under the flywheel to see if that stator is melting down. There are large black coils there which are the beginning of the ignition system and their purpose is to supply AC voltage to the powerpack. If they're melting, cracked, etc, it would result in weak ignition. However if they have reached a worse scenerio point, there would be no ignition. While you're looking in that area, check to make sure that none of the flywheel magnets have come loose and have slid together.

If through all this, you still have no spark, and all looks well under the flywheel, it would be my guess that the pack has failed... but of course without actually being there, it is just that... a guess. Keep me informed.

Joe
"
 
" Joe - found the shift cutout

" Joe - found the shift cutout switch, but the black/yellow wire looks like it goes directly into the power pack - I couldn't locate a plug. I did find a plug on a black/yellow wire coming from(?) the power pack and disconnected that. Still no spark. Plan on pulling the flywheel this weekend to check things under it. But while reading the Clymer manual, I found there should be 100 volts to the ignition coils from the power pack - I've got nothing. Should I still start under the flywheel, or does this indicate the power pack?

Thanks again for the help. "
 
" Your engine has a single pow

" Your engine has a single powerpack. Under that pack, at the rear will be the rubber plugs. After pulling the flywheel, check that stator/charge coil assy to see if it's melted down. It's possible that it's failed completely and is not supplying the AC power to the pack. If that AC voltage isn't there, the p/pack will not function.

Joe "
 
" Joe - this may be a dumb que

" Joe - this may be a dumb question, but I'm going to ask anyway. Is there a special socket required to remove the flywheel nut? The 1/2" drive 1 3/8" socket is too small and the 3/4" drive 1 7/16" socket won't fit into the recession where the nut is. I've even tried a 1/2" drive 36mm socket - it's too small also. Suggestions? "
 
" Unless you can find a thin w

" Unless you can find a thin wall 1-7/16 socket, you may have to do what I did. (at the time I worked at a machine shop so I did it myself) Take a 1-7/16 socket to a machine shop and have them put it on a lathe to turn it down to fit the recess. I used an impact socket for the added strength. You could also do close to the same thing by using a bench grinder to remove enough metal from the socket to allow it to fit. This method is not pretty, and it will take a while, but it will work. Be sure to cool the socket with some water during this process to keep its strength and temper. "
 
"Tom77..... You can go the rou

"Tom77..... You can go the route as mentioned above by Tom J and it will work of course. But since you asked..... I use a Craftsman 3/4" drive socket 1 7/16" in size. The number on the socket is #47811. I use a adapter 3/4" to 1/2" in order to use a breaker bar, torque wrench, etc. No modifications are needed and it fits perfectly.

Joe
"
 
" Joe - pulled the flywheel an

" Joe - pulled the flywheel and found all the magnets loose and slid together. Also, 1 is cracked is half. The stator looks okay to me - not melted or cracked. But there is rust on all the stator and coil surfaces that face the flywheel. Is this normal? Does the flywheel need to be replace or can the magnets be repositioned/repaired? What should I do about the rust? Thanks for the help. "
 
"Tom77.... Zooowiee, sorry to

"Tom77.... Zooowiee, sorry to hear that! There are some well established marine dealerships that can clean the flywheel and existing magnets, and epoxy them in. However make sure that the epoxy is a recommended type especially for that purpose. You wouldn't want a super thick epoxy oozing out all over the surfaces and/or pushing the magnets away from the outer surface (or would that be the inner surface) of the flywheel (too close to the stator).

Note that the prices here are from a 1999 OMC price book. The OMC recommended flywheel epoxy adhesive for bonding a magnet to the flywheel is OMC #431929... $3.95ea. The OMC magnet replacement kit (magnet & epoxy) is OMC #584304... $9.95ea. (A rough guess at a price increase would be about 20%).

The alternative would be to replace the flywheel. The 1989 225hp flywheel is OMC part #583970 and in 1999 listed for $715.00.

I have left in stock a earlier 225hp flywheel OMC #583969 which in 1999 listed for $680.00. I have no idea as to what the difference might be between the two numbers 969/970 though. If any readers out there have knowledge of this, let me know. If they were interchangeable, and you decided to go that route, I'd drop that price to my cost.

The stator & rust.... Make notes. take pictures, whatever so that there's no question about reassembly. Remove the stator and examine it carefully, especially the bottom and backs of those large black coils. If you see any oozing substance leaking down out of those coils, install a new stator. While it's off (if it is okay), clean the rust off it by whatever means you have to use, but carefully.

Curious.... where did this rust come from? Is it actually rust or might it simply be residue manufactured by the faulty flywheel (it happens). Keep in mind that the flywheel nut must be torqued to 145 foot pounds upon reassembly. Where are you located?

Joe
"
 
" Joe - I'm in Hampton, VA

" Joe - I'm in Hampton, VA. I'll call around and see if any of the local dealers will re-work the flywheel for me. If no one locally does it, do you have any suggestion on where I could send it? There is also a boat "junk yard" in Chesapeake that may have a used one?? I'll keep your new one in mind (thanks). Didn't see any "rust" on the flywheel magnets, but maybe that's where it's coming from. "
 
" Joe, Tom J - installed anoth

" Joe, Tom J - installed another stator and the repaired flywheel and it's running again!! Plan on fishing tomorrow!! I really appreciate all the help. "
 
"Tom J.... Glad to hear that y

"Tom J.... Glad to hear that you're back in business my friend. Hope you torqued that flywheel to 145 foot pounds. If not, do not attempt to run it as per normal running until you do. It will most definitely shear a flywheel key if not torqued properly.

Joe
"
 
I recently bought a 1982 boat

I recently bought a 1982 boat with a 1981 35 HP Evinrude motor. The wiring harness on the motor has become brittle and all the wires are rotten all the way back to the boat/motor connection plug. Any idea where I could find a good price on a complete harness?
 
I found my wiring harness and

I found my wiring harness and carefully hooked it up just like the old one and when I connect my battery cable I hear a sparking sound and then the motor will actually turn over without the key being turned on. Can you give me an idea?
 
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