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SelecTrim troubleshoot

800stringerjim

New member
"1st time so please be gentle.

"1st time so please be gentle. I am new to the stringer fraternity, and reading this forum has been helpful. The selectrim on my 305 v-8 800 is not working. I can hear the solenoid click when I activate the switch, but no movement. The owner's manual says its not owner servicable and the manual I bought (Seloc) only addresses the Ford v-8s. What is the order of going at the problem? I don't want to start tearing into it until someone who's done it before can tell me what will be flying out into my driveway."
 
"try a couple firm taps on the

"try a couple firm taps on the side of the electric trim motor housing (the motor is atop the hydraulic pump-blue cylindrical motor 2 wires running into it from the solenoids) sometimes gets them spinning, but it usually only brings temporary excitement and then craps out again a couple days later. If that gets it going, you need to disassemble the electric motor and clean all contacts, commutator bars,inspect brushes etc... a alocal electric motor shop will be familiar with that motor if you take it in. -
If that doesnt work, a digital multimeter and the knowledge to use it probably first order of business. If the solenoid clicks, you have eliminated all the wiring to the helm and shifter and the problem will be on the high current side of the system."
 
"James.
Been a long time sinc


"James.
Been a long time since I worked on the OMCs. My first step would be to make sure all the wiring is clean and free of grease,dirt, rust and the ugly blue/green stuff. That said make sure your contacts on the helm switch are clean. Sometimes when you hear a click with no action it's a sign of low voltage, is your battery up to charge? I usually started at the top and worked down checking all connections ie the helm switch, then good wires, good contacts, good solenoid and then the motor. It just a simple matter of following the electricity. If everything checks out then clean up the motor, new brushes etc.
Cal"
 
"I had this happen a few days

"I had this happen a few days ago. Just click from the solenoid, with no action. It was working fine, but when I accidentally grounded one of the solenoids, it stopped working and I could only get a click. Since I knew what I did, I checked main 50A fuses (2 of them) and found one was blown. I changed fuse and that solved my problem.

Otherwise, listen to what these good guys have to say."
 
"50 amp fuses are good. Tappin

"50 amp fuses are good. Tapping didn't budge it. When I next have an extra pair of hands to activate the switch while I poke around with my test light, I will try to find where the juice stops. Strange thing is that my 305 has the jackscrew, switch box and electric motor at the front of the engine, like the manual shows for the v-6s. Mine, according to the OMC Owner's Manual, should have a hydralic lift above each of the rear engine mounts. Is this peculiar?"
 
"yes, peculiar...I thought all

"yes, peculiar...I thought all 305's had hydraulic. All Chev based V6's have hydraulic selectrim actually - V6's never had the worm gear type. Inline 4 cylinders always had the mechanical type."
 
"The jackscrew is in a black r

"The jackscrew is in a black rubber boot at the front and center of the engine. There is a box and what I assume is the motor; it looks like a big tomato can. Its a 200 hp V8, which by definition is a 305/5.0, right? Isn't this good news? I'd think the mechanical set up is easier to fix than the hydraulic, but I don't know much."
 
"I prefer the hydraulic ones,

"I prefer the hydraulic ones, but they're both fairly simple systems. The whole thrust issue on the jackscrew type is what I dont like. Make sure all the parts are kept track of if you remove the motor - nylon washers and thrust bearings very important. The motor can sit under bilge water and get all seized up quite common on the 4 cylinder models."
 
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