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Cranks starts dies

"This will be my third try at

"This will be my third try at getting this posted. I just acquired a 1994 Excel 18SX with a Volvo 230B engine and a Volvo Sterndrive. When I bought this boat the owner said it had a bad starter. Well, not so. A bad wiring issue with the Shifter Safety Interrupt switch. But, that now corrected, I have a REAL PROBLEM!! I had pulled the sparkplugs and squirted some penetrating oil down the cylinders when I first began this project. After getting the starter problem corrected, today I drained all the fuel and refilled it with fresh gas, changed the oil and filter, changed the water separater filter, and installed new sparkplugs. On my first attempt as starting, the engine spun over for about 10 seconds as if it had NO COMPRESSION. After this, for the next 5 seconds or so, it appeared to be building to normal compression, and it actually fired up and ran for about 1 to 2 seconds, then quit. I gave it a second, then attempted to re-start it again, and again, it spun over as if NO COMPRESSION was there. And, in about 10 seconds, it started coming back, and after cranking for about 15 seconds, it again lit up and ran for anoter second or so, then died out, again with seemingly ZERO compression. I pulled the valve cover and noted that the followers were seeming to function normally...all going up and down with the cam lobes as I believe they're designed to do. I noted that the engine did seem to run normally for about 1 to 2 seconds, and that NO SMOKE came billowing out of the exhaust. I repeated this process about 10 times, until the battery finally failed. But, when it did..the engine is now sitting with what seems to be ZERO compression again..turning over just like the spark-plugs were out of it. NEVER in my over 40 years of engines have I EVER seen anything like this!! I do NOT know Volvo motors, so I don't know if there's some kind of compression release mechanism that only restores compression when the engine sees oil pressure build up after cranking for a few moments...but I can't think of another reason for this engine to seemingly loose compression, crank for 10 to 12 seconds...then slowly get compression back, fire up and run...then seem to loose compression again and possibly be the cause of the die-out. I has good fuel in the carb, the accel pump is working, and about the only other symptoms are the occassional mis-fire out either the carb or exhaust. But, when it ran...it seemed OK for that second or two...then just quit. AND...I see no problems under the cam lobes to indicate any sticking valves....especially not in all 4 cylinders. So...any help would be GREATLY appreciated!! If you think you know the answer, please contact me directly at my email address of [email protected]. And..If you're SURE you know the answer, please call me at 410-925-7213. I really appreciate the assistance. I hate to cry for help...but this one's got me completely baffled!! Thanks....and Happy Boating..and may you always stay Floating!! Tom D."
 
"I would first have a look at

"I would first have a look at the timing belt, it could be loose and slipping (or with broken teeth). If all normal, post again and we'll look into this further."
 
"Sorry, I should have mentione

"Sorry, I should have mentioned that: The timing belt looks fine....all the teeth seem in good shape, no worn or bald spots, and the cam appears to be turning 'in time' with the crank. I thought about possible 'out of time' or jumped timing on the cam, but when this thing finally fires up, it seems to run just fine....for about 2 seconds or so. Then, it stops...and the compression is gone, or so it appears. At least it's cranking over as if it had no compression. It just 'flys' over like the spark plugs were not installed. And, finally, after about 10 seconds of winging over like this, the compression just seems to return over about a 5 second interval. Then, for the last few seconds, it's cranking 'normally', fires up, blows off what might be just the fuel from the pump shots, and then stalls out and dies. AND...at that point, if you attempt to crank it over again..the compression seems to be gone again. Wierd, eh? Anyway....good question back...I should have mentioned that. At this point, I don't think that's it. But, if you've got a formal cam timing check-out process, I'll do it and report back. Thanks, TSD"
 
"Have you considered starting

"Have you considered starting with the basics? i.e. a compression test and a leak-down test? If both are OK, then the timing belt is probably installed correctly and doing its job. In that case, consider verifying the firing order and making sure that the leads from the distributor go to the correct spark plugs (1-3-4-2 clockwise) and make sure the ignition timing is set approximately where it should be.

Also, to discard fuel and electrical faults, you can: 1) attach a jerrycan with fresh fuel to the fuel pump (just in case the anti-syphon valve in the fuel tank is stuck and rectricting the fuel flow); and 2) hotwire the + side of the coil with a jumper from the + of the battery. If it runs correctly after either action, then you know where to look for the problem."
 
"Go back to the basics......Su

"Go back to the basics......Suck,Squish,Bang,Blow...
Gotta try compression test, spark test, and fuel test. Something is going away.
Definatley try looking at the timing belt and marks. They should line up. If they are off a little, there could be a problem like you are mentioning.
Good luck."
 
The only way it may crank with

The only way it may crank with 'no compression' is if the valves are open.
Have You tried to crank with valve cover off and check that valve train is operating from beginning?
Have You checked bot valve timing and ign timing?
Have You checked compression?
 
"OK....for those of you who th

"OK....for those of you who think I'm absolutely crazy.....I just completed the compression test. And.....as I would have predicted....the results bear out EXACTLY what I've been describing. Depending on where this engine stops in this cycle of compression coming and going....the compression guage just sits with nothing happening for 5 to 10 seconds....and then as the event cycles thru it's 'timing'....the compression begins to build to 'normal' levels, then it begins to dissapate until it's no longer compressing on that hole. This happened in all 4 cylinders....and at the peak of the compression building cycle....I got readings of 175, 170, 165, 170. And....given a bit of leakage at my compression tester's "O" ring....the 165 and 170 may well have been a 175 as I had to back off a bit to get the tester out of the cylinder easily. I had it a bit more firmly in the first hole and had a difficult time spinning it back out, so I deliberately left it a bit loose in order to facilitate removal. But...this bears out two things: 1) I'm NOT crazy....the compression IS coming and going in a cyclical manner. And 2) It's NOT in the lower end of the motor!!

My concern now is this: This engine does NOT look like it had any kind of cam replacement done. But, in order for the cam timing to come and go like this...the ratio of the drive gear on the crank and the driven gear on the cam must Not be a precise 2 to 1. It seems that in about every hundred revolutions of the crankshaft, the compression begins to return...the engine fires up and runs...then quits...with NO compression. So, unless there are oddball sizes for these gears, I'm not sure what's next. I saw in a diagram that there's some kind of countershaft on this engine? Could THAT affect this problem?

OK....so, now I guess it's time to take the front of the motor apart....pull off all those pumps and coolers and whatnot....and actually look at the way the timing marks line up. If anyone has a shot or diagram, or even instructions on what this SHOULD look like, I'd appreciate taking a look. My email is [email protected] and I really appreciate all the help. And, for those of you who thought I was nutz when I said the compression was coming and going....perhaps now you'll believe me. I just don't get how being out of time on the cam belt can cause a cycle of coming and going....IF the 2 to 1 ratio remain the constant. But....we'll see what it looks like under there.....

Thanks again, Tom D."
 
"PS...I also DID verify firing

"PS...I also DID verify firing order...and it's fine. As I said...when this engine eventually gets to it's compression cycle....it will start, run for a moment...and actually rev up. As the compression returns, the boat actually starts shaking on the trailer...just like it should. But, when compression is gone...even with the spark plugs in place...the engine turns over as if it had no spark plugs in it at all. Again, thanks....TSD"
 
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