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12 point tool size for bellhousing removal

david_ray

Regular Contributor
"Back at the bellows replaceme

"Back at the bellows replacement job. The downloaded manual is very vague in places and difficult to follow at times. Also it is on office computer, not in the shop.

Despite the impression I first had from manual, I see I must remove the bellhousing to access all the clamp positions for bellows install. So far I have not observed any tears in the bellows, but will know when I actually get them exposed.

The pivot pin bolts have a 12 point female socket. Do you know what size this is ??? Looks about 1/2" but could even be metric. I plan to go after what ever it is this evening or early in morning if stores close before I can get there tonight. Any purchase guideline will be appreciated.

Also if you think of any other surprises as a "heads up" I will appreciate the advance.

I tried to read the SD tag identification, but it is worn beyond reading.

Just thought - I was reading about using an exhaust tube instead of bellows as a possible replacement. Do you know if this applies to a vintage unit such as mine (1988)?"
 
"I recall that is 1/2"; bu

"I recall that is 1/2"; but try a bolt head in it to be sure. Or use an inside caliper or whatever is handy.
Not sure what is meant by "exhaust tube", but they all use a bellows. Your 1988 is an Alpha I.
BTW, the exhaust bellows does not have to be perfect or leakproof. The driveshaft bellows is critical however, and must be leak free. This also applies to the shift cable bellows.
If in doubt, these two should be replaced at a minimum. Yours could be 20 years old, and the normal changeout time is 10 years.

Rod"
 
"Ayuh,....

Get yourself a


"Ayuh,....

Get yourself a 1/2" Allen Wrench from Sears,+ You're Good to Go...."
 
Those pivot pins may be pretty

Those pivot pins may be pretty tight.I had to use a bolt and a few hard hits to break them lose already.A new water hose is not that much more and nows the time to put one in....Todd
 
"Okay, I found a 1/2" male

"Okay, I found a 1/2" male hex socket at AutoZone which will fit my rachets & torque wrench, so I guess the pivot pin removal will happen tomorrow.

Another question, if it does not get lost in this thread -- the more I read in preparation and examine the sterndrive, I see the manual emphasizes a special shift cable removal tool to free the cable from the bell housing.

While I can see a deep socket will remove the retainer/jamb nut, it looks like you must thread a fitting out of the housing to be able to free the cable. What in the world does this special tool look like, or how does it function? Can I jury rig something as a substitute?

Again I appreciate all the responses."
 
"Another thought --- Per my a

"Another thought --- Per my added question in my reply just a few moments ago as to the shift cable removal tool --
Is it even necessary to remove the cable from the bell housing since it must already be removed from the connector in the engine compartment? Could I not just pull the cable out as I pull the housing off (carefully of course) and simply run it back thru the new bellows into the engine compartment? It seems like it could work, but having never done this maintenance myself before, I may be missing something."
 
"David,
Are you planning o


"David,
Are you planning on replacing the shift cable as well as the bellows?Not sure how far you are planning to go.Being an 88 I would think you are well past due if not already done.When I had to do mine a few years ago I needed lots of tools.Cutting the cable was the easy part.Getting the fitting out of the bellhousing was another story.It might as well of been welded in from age and had to drill it out making sure not to mess the threads up.Don't forget the spiral wrap on the cable inside the boat near the coupler...Todd"
 
"Todd, the shift cable really

"Todd, the shift cable really looks almost new. In spite of age, boat has had limited use, only about 265 hours total. Bellows appear to have failed from age, and/or a little help from muskrats - will find out when get apart.

Yeah getting the shift cable out of bell housing, not exactly knowing what the threaded fastener requires for a tool fitting, leaves me a little anxious. I have no plan to cut it out unless there is no other way - that is why I was wondering about leaving it attached to the bell housing and pulling it out from the engine compartment still attached. That way I would expect to slide bellows on from the other end.

My mind thinks that the threaded fitting must have some type notch in its head to spin it out after you remove the jamb nut, if not frozen/corroded into the housing. The jamb nut is on the rear of the bellhousing, not within.

Goal is to replace all three bellows and the water intake (uptake) tube (which I notice is somewhat flattened in the curve upward), and of course the gasket between drive unit and bellhousing. Of course I'll do the grease and oil changout."
 
"1. 1/2 allen will not fit. sp

"1. 1/2 allen will not fit. spline tool is cheaper anyway.
2. there is no jamb nut on the shift cable. the nut is fixed to the cable and the whole thing unscrews. it will pull out with the bell housing, but you must remove the cable guide first. the special tool is an extra deep socket. standard deep socket not long enough."
 
"David;
You may be able to bo


"David;
You may be able to borrow the cable tool from our local merc dealer. It is a special order otherwise, though not expensive. YOu really need it for the cable fitting removal; there is no real substitute.

Rod."
 
Sounds to me like you are unde

Sounds to me like you are understanding what is in front of you pretty well.Only thing I would add is that I put the bellows in very hot water to soften then up to work with and that seems to help.Its the clamps that I frown at.Patience wins on this job....Todd
 
"well i bought the hinge pin t

"well i bought the hinge pin tool it wasnt bad in price was around 8 bucks i think. I had to put my torgue wrench on the thing to get it to break loose though. Check everything in there while your there. I got my tool at www.wholesalemarine.com."
 
"Raymond is right about the hi

"Raymond is right about the hinge pin tool. It makes the job a whole lot easier, and it is built tough.

One trick I heard (too late for me) for fitting the new exhaust bellows is to stretch it over a PVC plumbing fitting overnight to stretch it a little. Then it slips on easily; otherwise it can be a testy job. (Creative language sometimes helps.) Can't just remember the size; might be 2-1/2" or 3". Your local building supply store should have a selection.

You don't need bellows seal cement on the exhaust, but for sure use it on the driveshaft bellows. You can also use yellow weatherstrip cement from AutoZone in a pinch.

Rod"
 
"David
Just a point about the


"David
Just a point about the bellows clamps, make sure you fit them in the positions descrided in the manual or you will pay for your mistake.
Cheers
Peter C"
 
"Exhaust bellows installations

"Exhaust bellows installations.... mount on the transom, and heat itwith a hair dryer, it will be much easier to fit onto the bell helmet."
 
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