Stern drive removal amp trim hoses removal

"Since writing a few weeks ago

"Since writing a few weeks ago, I have my boat now on trailer and starting to work to replace all hoses and bellows. This is a 1988 4.3 Mercruiser with (I believe) an Alpha 1 SD.

Per readings, I have drained lower unit and pulled prop, and removed the six bolts holding the drive section. It has very slowly been worked back about 3/8" but appears stuck on something. I dread using the "bigger hammer" approach on that soft cast housing.
Am I missing something or need more slow patience method. It wiggles and appears to be coming out stright, but has simply stopped moving rearward. I have been at this for over an hour, so decided to write for info before continuing.

Second question is on trim hose removal. I have tried three different 3/8" wrenches on the fittings where they thread into the transom area. All three wrenches have simply rounded some of the fitting corners off. Should I apply heat? It appears there may be some type of whitish/yellowish sealant (LocTite?) on the threads, but it has been about 7 years since a dealer pulled the unit for bellows replacement.

Thanks for all replies... I am going to drink a beer before going back out there to try and "persuade" that unit tocome off."

"Is the shifter in forward?
I

"Is the shifter in forward?
If so, and it has come out that far, it should come out OK. There may be corrosion on the shaft ahead of the gimbal bearing, that is now hung up in the gimbal inner race.
You may need to push her back in and see if you can get some WD 40 or similar onto the shaft just forward of the transom assembly. You will have to be a bit of a contortionist, but you will wind up seeing some areas of your boat you have not seen before.
Good luck.
Rod"

"David....You need to remove t

"David....You need to remove the cylinders from the drive by taking off the 2 black plastic caps, locknuts,and let the cylinders hang.Take note which washers went where.You have removed the 6 locknuts holding the drive.A prybar from each side pulling evenly usually pops it out, but be careful not to booger anything up as you can see it is a very narrow and thin area there.Helps to have someone pulling and shaking while you put the pressure to it.Will need the alignment checked before instalation...Todd"

You have to use "tubing wr

You have to use "tubing wrenches" on all hydraulic fittings to prevent rounding of the nuts.

"Have quit for evening (da

"Have quit for evening (dark outside). I did get the trim hoses loose using the "bigger wrench" method.

Drive unit has moved no further outward and feels like perhaps a safety catch may be involved. Maybe not, but that is the impression formed in my mind. This may merely be corrosion mentioned in the reply above.
Todd, I had disconnected the hydraulic trim cylinders - just had not mentioned that in opening paragraph. You are very correct in that the structure is very thin material and subject to breaking off in chunks.
Rod, I will try the oil on shaft tomorrow when I can see better down in the hull. I had shifter in forward before starting removal. Then I will push it forward again before trying again to remove.

I guess I just needed reassurance I had started off correctly before trying again. It WILL come off - I'm just not sure in how many pieces or how soon.

Thanks to all."

"Guy, I guess you posted while

"Guy, I guess you posted while I was typing, so missed your reply. I did use proper design tubing wrench, but some of these are lower quality tools I often keep in my emergency travel kit and more typically used on brass. The shop tool did the trick - and has a longer handle too.
Thanks to you also."

Have had a few of these tough

Have had a few of these tough ones myself.Always went though.Once had to place 2 pieces of 1/8" metal on both sides of 3/8" gap and easily hit a wedge between them.That worked for me....Todd

"I will use two wrenches when

"I will use two wrenches when possible, one on the tube's nut and the other on the part, then squeeze them together like pliers to break the seal. "ALWAYS" spray the fittings w/WD40 first."

"Thanks again to all. The dri

"Thanks again to all. The drive unit is off now.

Today, I first put unit back into place then started removal process again. After regaining the small opening, I used two LARGE chisels and light taps to put uniform pressure from both sides, and applying a newfound vocabulary, convinced the unit to come off.

Now onto the next phase....."

The question is:
Was it in fo

The question is:
Was it in foward gear to begin with???
If not you damaged the shift shoes.