1985 honda BF100 10 hp no spark

"How can I test the coil &

"How can I test the coil & rectifier for proper voltages to determin why I'm not getting any spark at the plugs? thanks, Dick"

dva and meter

dva and meter

what voltage should be coming

what voltage should be coming into the coil to trigger it? ac or dc?

set meter on dc volts

do u

set meter on dc volts

do u have a DVA?

"If your BF100 s/n is higher t

"If your BF100 s/n is higher than 1199999, you have Transistorized 'CDI' ignition. You can use your OHM-meter (cheapest will do) to test your Exciter Coil From the brown wire from under the flywheel to ground, you should see 330 OHMs +/- 10%. I don't have a "DVA" but a spin of flywheel would just give a momentary DC Voltage spike on the multimeter set at 25 Volts.

On your ignition coil, you should see 8k (8x1000) between the spark plug leads (+/-20%) and from the Primary Lead to Ground should be 0.56 OHM (+/-10%). (be sure to 'zero the needle' as that one is almost the same as the two Meter Leads togather.)

The two leads from the Pulsar Coil (under Cam Pully) should show 120 OHM +/-10%.

The transistoriized "CDI UNIT" is a page of tests and you are allowed one of two "Special" OHM-Meters for testing. I could get no readings of anything but Brown?green and it as double/triple high. (With my $20 multimeter)

I was all set to order the expensive CDI when (using a sharp needle through insulation near CDI)) revealed continuity problems with three of the nine CDI leads.

Those twenty year old wires had 'rotted' inside the perfect looking insulation and I was able to cut back into decent copper and solder in new leads. Spark restored and hundreds saved.

Motor had been sparking fine until I disassembled to replace exhaust and that had been just enough disturbance for those 'rotten' (brown rather than the green usually seen on old marine wiring) wires to lose continunity."