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TRIM LIMIT SWITCH PROBLEM

bobkoss

Member
"I have read all of the resent

"I have read all of the resent discussions about Trim/Tilt problems searching for a solution for the problems I am having with my boat. The basic problem is the same as described in other threads. After re-assembly of the Bell Housing and outdrive, the Trim/Tilt system works with the toggle switch in the down direction and the trailer switch in the up direction, but will not run in the up direction with the toggle switch.

I have followed Guy G's trouble shooting process and found the following condition and want to find out if anyone else has experienced it and if so, what is the solution. I know that all of the components of the system are working as the should. The motor was bench tested, the solenoids have been replaced, the toggle & trailer switches are ok, all connections are clean and tight, and the Trim Position Sender is working properly.

While attempting to trouble shoot the limit switch I discovered that if the switch is rotated about 90 degree clockwise I can get the motor to run in the up direction with the toggle switch. However, if I compensate by turning the inner part of the limit switch 90 degrees counter clockwise so that I can align the switch with the attaching screws, the toggle switch no longer works.

Has anyone had this problem? If so, how did you fix it?"
 
"It sounds like your limit swi

"It sounds like your limit switch is fried, or maybe just dirty. Guy's procedure has a method for cleaning the switch contacts I believe. I have never tried this but it may be worth a shot.

Rod"
 
Bob:

It sounds like you are


Bob:

It sounds like you are trying to use the "TRIM" switch out of its intended range. The limit switch is adjusted only to allow the "TRIM" switch to raise the OD until the trim/tilt cylinders are extended to a point that the mounting bolts are 22" +/- 1/4" apart Center-to- Center. When the trim "LIMIT" switch is set to that distance the trim "UP" switch loses voltage from the "LIMIT" switch so that it will prevent the OD from coming up out of the water by over trimming the OD and causing an engine over-rev condition. The only way to raise the OD past this safety point is to use the trailer switch. Adjust the trim limit and it will work.
 
"Guy, for some reason the only

"Guy, for some reason the only way I can get the outdrive to move upward with the TOGGLE switch is to rotate the LIMIT switch out of its intended range. My problem is that I can't (don't know how) get it to work in its intended range.

When the LIMIT switch is aligned to the mounting holes the only way to get the outdrive to go up is by using the TRAILER switch. I have noticed that I can increase the amount of outdrive travel while using the TRAILER switch by rotating the LIMIT switch counter clockwise.

At this time I don't know if the LIMIT switch is defective or if it is out of adjustment. If its out of adjustment, how can I set it properly when the TOGGLE switch does not work??"
 
"Bob:

I am 99.99% positive


"Bob:

I am 99.99% positive it is out of adjustment. You need someone to hold the trim switch "UP" while you adjust the trim limit switch and measure the cylinder distance. Stop when the distance is 22" and tighten the screws on the limit switch. Trust me; I made the same mistake and cussed myself out.
uhoh.gif


I have a complete trim/tilt/trailer switch assy and harness that I plug into the trim unit to work on my adjustments. It is the old one from my boat that I replaced and repaired and it works great."
 
"Bob, remove the switch. index

"Bob, remove the switch. index to make contact, and reinstall with screw holes aligned. then make final adjustments."
 
"While we are on the subject,

"While we are on the subject, I just got my Limit Switch to work. Same deal Down worked, Trailer worked, no UP. I cleaned the switch on the Drive. Now, does the limit switch Limit both up and Down? Mine only Limits in the UP stage.
TIA
Bert"
 
Bert:

It's only in the


Bert:

It's only in the UP circuit. The TRAILER circuit bypasses the UP circuit.

Guy
 
"FYI I have heard the original

"FYI I have heard the original wiring on these items was pretty crappy quality and is often the cuplrit for breakdown. I've seen new trim/tilt switch setups on EBAy from dougrussell for about $80 delivered, for what it's worth.

I have the same problem but for now I just bypassed the trim up/down switch and hard wired everything to the tilt switch at the controls. It works good enough to get me out on the water and get my boat back on the trailer. As long as I never give it more than a couple of blips on the up tilt for trimming while underway I will be OK. I have yet to spring for the new set up but I will eventually."
 
"PugetSounder:

My pucks are


"PugetSounder:

My pucks are 1987 models and still work. Did you look inside the trim switch/trailer button wire harness. It's the 2"X1"X1/8" plastic connector. Inside are 4 double ended female receptacles that the harness wire pins to the trim unit hooks up to and the other side connects the switches. Constant shifting and throttle use caused a red wire to crack at the male connecter on the trim side of it. The problem was no UP trim.

How the trim/tilt works

Before you tear anything apart or replace wiring and switches, test it out; first by visual inspection by pulling back and forth on the wires while operating the switches and then test with a meter. At the commander switches, the red wire will always have 12 volts. The green wire gets 12 volts when the trim toggle is held down. The blue wire gets 12 volts only when the toggle is held up or the trailer switch is pushed in. The purple wire is part of the limit switch circuit.

If the switch voltages are as they are supposed to be then go to the trim/tilt pump assy. and make sure the purple wire connector (single wire) and the blue wire connector with two blue wires on one side of the connection are not corroded or loose. These are the trim position and limit switch wires. Pull them apart and inspect; they should be clean and tight; reconnect them. If necessary, trace the wires to the front of the engine near the slave solenoid. One wire is grounded near there and the other is connected to a terminal. If you don't get a voltage reading at the terminal junction, apply 12 VDC to see if the trim gauge moves. If it does, check for voltage back at the trim pump connections. If no voltage there, apply 12 VDC there to check gauge movement.

Next check the three wire connector (RED, BLUE & GREEN) at the pump assy. This plug can vibrate loose and cause your problem. Pull it off and see if the pins are clean and not corroded; reconnect it.

The RED wire in the plug sends 12 volts from the pump assy. to the toggle up/down and trailer up switches. The BLUE & GREEN wires bring 12 volts from the toggle trim/tilt and trailer switches to the two solenoids on the pump assy.

The GREEN wire goes to the DOWN solenoid while the BLUE wire goes to the UP solenoid.

Did you check the switches with an ohmmeter? The trim/tilt switch is a 2-way switch and will show continuity only when it is toggled in each direction between two of the wires.

Up toggle connects the RED wire to the BLUE wire. Down toggle connects the RED wire to the GREEN wire. The TRAILER UP switch also connects the RED wire to the BLUE wire.

The OD trim limit switch will only send voltage to the trim/tilt switch in the upward toggle position if the OD limit switch is below the adjusted trim limit that keeps the OD being out of the water.

To test the limit switch circuit, lower the OD to the down position and slowly raise it with the trim toggle up until it stops. Then measure the distance between the trim cylinder attaching bolts. If the distance is approx. 22 +/- 1/4 inches, then the trim limit switch is adjusted properly and the commander trim toggle switch is working in the up/down mode.

Go to the trim/tilt pump assy. and make sure the purple wire connector (single wire) and the blue wire connector two blue wires on one side of the connection are not corroded or loose. Pull them apart; they should be clean and tight; reconnect them.
Next check the three (RED, BLUE & GREEN) wire connector at the pump assy. The RED wire in the plug sends 12 volts from the pump assy. to the toggle up/down and trailer up switches. This plug can vibrate loose and cause your problem. Pull it off and see if the pins are clean and not corroded; reconnect it.

The BLUE & GREEN wires bring 12 volts from the switches to the two solenoids on the pump assy. The GREEN wire goes to the DOWN solenoid while the BLUE wire goes to the UP solenoid.

Disconnect the trim/tilt assy. wires from the battery and then check each of the nuts and studs on the solenoids for clean and tight fittings. Each solenoid has three wires and the buss bar connected to it. The bases of them have a black ground wire and a small blue wire to one and a small green wire to the other.

On top of each solenoid, the large BLUE wire from the pump motor attaches to a large copper stud with the solenoid that has the small blue wire at the base while the large GREEN wire from the pump motor attaches to a large copper stud with the solenoid that has the small green wire at the base.

The other copper solenoid studs are connected together with a copper buss bar. One of the two studs will also have a funny looking 110 amp fuse attached to the bar. The large RED wire from the battery connects to the 110 amp fuse. This large red wire is the power for this buss bar. A small RED wire attached to the bar stud sends 12 volts to the switches which in turn sends the 12 volts to the solenoids which turns on the pump motor.

Important: if the studs on the either solenoid are dark and not like a clean penny, especially the BLUE wired solenoid, this solenoid is failing due to age and/or a loose bottom copper stud nut. The dark color comes from heat generated inside of the solenoid by the contactor because it is arcing like welding similar to points wearing out. Change the solenoid.

Cleaning Trim Limit Switch & Trim Position Sender

For the trim/tilt problem you are experiencing, if the wires from the limit switch (port side) and trim position sender (starboard side) are in good condition, they (Switch or sender) can be disassembled to clean out the old hardened grease. SCRIBE the sides of each one and the OD for a reference mark before removal. Clean out the old grease and pump fresh Mercruiser 2-4-C grease thru the zerk fittings before reinstallation. Clean the small brass contact points with solvent and a pencil eraser until shiny; repack w/ 2-4-C grease and reinstall by aligning reference marks."
 
"Thanks all for the advise and

"Thanks all for the advise and process. I was lucky and did not have to replace any thing. It was simply out of adjustment. It took some time to find the right spot, but once we did we were able to set the up limits.
It's great having this site and the help you all have provided.
I just have a few thing to complete then I will have this project boat in the water. Happy Day!!!
Thanks again."
 
Hey Guy G
I have looked under


Hey Guy G
I have looked under the controls and have all that figured out although it was the end of last summer. I know I wasn't getting any current coming from the proper wires and I assumed then the OD switch or a switch wire was shot. That's why I hard wired the up/down to be able to use it. With trim tabs the outdrive trim isn't as important to me. I put it down and leave it there while under way. Spring isn't quite here yet but I'll give it another shot when it quits raining. They are predicting more snow this friday. *sigh* I wish it were boating season already! Thanks for the paragraph. I have printed it out and stuck it in my manual! it's very useful.
 
"PugetSounder:

I hope those


"PugetSounder:

I hope those paragraphs will help you get it working again. My brother retired a few years ago to some island community in your area. Spring has finally made it to SW Ohio. I'm going to recommission my boat this weekend; we're still getting prediction of overnight freezes but I'll be in Tenn. fishing id Dale Hollow Lake.

Good boating.
thumbs_up.gif

Guy"
 
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