Joe my electric shift wonbt shift

I just got a 1972 glastron 85

I just got a 1972 glastron 85 hp I took it out to the lake and tried it out and it ran perfect outher than the tack shorted out and had to unhook it. Aweek later I took it to the lake with my wife and kids. When I backed it off the trailor I could not shift from reverse to forword.So I took the control apart and found the shift switch was stuck in reverse. So I got a new one after putting that in all I have is forward. So I found a boat mech. neer the lake and after looking at it he thought the wireing above the lower unit to the switch was good and said it was in the lower end. since then I have taken the lower unit apart and powered the sylenoids and they seem to be working. I also looked though the geers and don't notice anything broke.If I understand correctly it powers the sylenoids into neutral and reverse. Could you please help?

"Bill... I assume you mean a 1

"Bill... I assume you mean a 1972 85hp Evinrude or Johnson, not a 1972 "Glastron". You need to be carefull about what switch you get with that model as, (if it's a toggle switch in the control box), there are two types... one is for a straight "electric shift" model (no power for neutral) and the "hydro electric shift" model <yours> (no power for forward). The switches look alike but are obviously not interchangable.

The lower unit on a 1972 85hp OMC outboard, if all power is disconnected, the lower unit would be automatically put into forward gear via a spring loaded clutch dog that would slam into forward gear. If your unit is being jammed into reverse... power would need to be applied to both lower unit solenoids.

Joe "

Yes it is a 1972 johnson hydr

Yes it is a 1972 johnson hydro electric shift. And yes I'm sure that the new five wire switch is what I took off. It was in reverse when the switch broke but now all I can get is forward gear and I know that I only need power for neutral and reverse.

"Previously when the switch wa

"Previously when the switch was stuck in reverse, you had reverse gear. That tells us that you had voltage going to both L/U coils and that the oil pump was operating properly to force the clutch dog into the reverse gear.

This means that the wiring harness from the switch to the solenoids in the lower unit is okay.

Later you replaced the switch, I assume that you had done nothing at that time except install the switch.... and now the unit was stuck in forward gear. That tells us that now there is no voltage going to the solenoids in the lower unit.

There was nothing wrong with the lower unit or the wiring previously. Otherwise the solenoids would not have been able to select a oil path to put the unit in reverse.

I'd suggest you put that unit back together and check for the proper voltages to the wires at the powerhead that lead to the lower unit when that switch is in neutral or reverse. DO NOT use "Hi Vis" lube in that unit! Use only OMC's Premimun Blend lube, also known as Type C.

Joe"

" Thanks Joe, I'll give th

" Thanks Joe, I'll give that a go and see what I have. "

Ok I got the lower unit toget

Ok I got the lower unit together and checked the for power coming from the shift switch with the key on and in neutral and I don't have power to green or blue. Shouldn't I have power to one of the wires for neutral? I am getting power only when I move the e switch in to forward one wire powers up and reverse the other powers up.

"Bill.... That's why I que

"Bill.... That's why I questioned the shift switch in a previous message. If that's the correct switch, something is wired wrong.

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.

In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.

In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire.

To check the lower unit for proper shifting, just to make sure you have no trouble there, you could disconnect the wires at the knife connectors leading to the lower unit, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. It won't cure your voltage problem at the switch but at least you'll know that the lower unit is okay. Just keep your foot away from the prop <grin>.

Joe"

Hi my name is Bruno from toro

Hi my name is Bruno from toronto canada and I presently own a 1972 50hp evinrude with almost the same problem. I also had the problem with the gear stuck in the forward position and the solution was to make sure the lower end unit oil was completely topped up. Funny but for some reason that was the trick. My problem is that the prop will not go forward or revearse. I have looked for my problem in the clymers manual but I found it not specific enough for my model engine. I took the knife blade connections apart and took the ohms reading to the solenoids and found one to be 5.7ohms which is good and the other 9.7ohms or more. I'm still not sure if I have neutral reverse solenoids or neutral forward solenoids. The other puzzle is if the button selector is in neutral should the prop spin freely because right now I cannot get the prop to turn in any manner. Does this sound strictly a solenoid problem or something else? By the way there is voltage from the selector switch to the green and blue wires at the powerhead. Hoping for anybody with more insight than myself on this matter can help. With much appreciation Bruno Dileo

" The shifting setup of your 1

" The shifting setup of your 1972 50hp lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear. You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Preminum Blend" lube, commonly called
"Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.

In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.

In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift). With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

Joe (30+ Years With OMC) "

Thank Joe for your reply but

Thank Joe for your reply but I must ask you if the resistance reading on one of the solenoids is at say 9.7ohms or greater does this not sound like a shot solenoid? I understand the readings should be in the ballpark of 5 to 7 ohms. Also when I had replaced the lower unit oil with the type "c" then checked the prop it should rotate in the forward gear if the solenoids doing their job and diverting the oil passage. This prop like I had mentioned is locked if the engine is running or not but the engine will start and run without any problems. If the gears wetre jammed would I not hear them? Is the clutch dog not getting fully disengaged? I'm picking at straws with this one but I will be doing all that you had told me to do with the switch out of the system and probably opening the lower unit for a visual. Please Joe if you have anything to add I will look forward to hear from you because I'm sure i'm missing something on this problem...Bruno

Bruno.... Just to clarify wha

Bruno.... Just to clarify what's going on with your engine. Are you saying that the lower unit is in neutral all the time whether the engine is running or not? Some of what you say is confusing me slightly. When you speak of jammed gears and the prop is locked whether the engine is running or not... I'm really not getting the picture. Is the prop locked and turning in forward? Is it locked in neutral? Try to explain a little more thoroughly.... a little closer detail.

Joe (30+ Years With OMC)

" I'm very sorry Joe if I

" I'm very sorry Joe if I haven't explained myself thoroughly but After all said and done I mentioned I was going in for a visual and that I did. I followed the clymers manual to disassemble the gearcase of the engine only to find in doing so as I pulled the unit out I noticed the end of the drive shaft that is up at the powerhead was completely smooth, so smooth that I could not believe something could snap so clean. Joe what had happened was this. Running the boat on the lake full throttle the gas was lower than I thought. Sure enough the engine revs increase, my partner looks all paniced so I asked him to turn the key off. I'm still not sure to this day if he had selected another gear that may have caused my problem or just a coincidence that both gas and drive shaft decided to go for break. What confused me was the engine once back at shore would start and run fine but I couldn't run the gears. I was ready to replace the neutral solenoid because that too was giving me high resistance readings(9.7ohms)but when I saw my driveshaft snapped right at the end that is located at the crank then I knew I'm above my head. I tried the magnet trick in trying to retrieve the broken piece but no success. Im afraid i'll have to get the right boys to take it from here. Sorry for the long spiel but tell me Joe is it commom for a shaft to snap like this did if not what could have caused this? Also Joe did my solenoid go bad because of this? All that has to be done to this motor for repair do you think it is worth it taken it's a 72? Thanks again to our friend JOE REEVES from Bruno. "

"Bruno... I know what you'

"Bruno... I know what you're speaking of when you mention how the driveshaft breaks. It looks like it was cut with a sharp razor type instrument. It happens from time to time but not to the same engine. It was a coincidence and had nothing to do with what you or your friend may have done. It just happens.

Many engines have their d/s break just under the water pump area for some reason. The breakage at the top end is less frequent.

In your case, sometimes the upper splined piece is being held in the crankshaft by a "O" Ring that sits just under the splined area, and if you can get that "O" Ring out, you'll be able to remove the broken piece with the magnet trick.

If that won't work, then you'll simply need to remove the powerhead to gain access to the bottom of the powerhead. Then you'll be able to drill and tap the broken piece, screw in a bolt or puller and yank it out.

The d/s breakage would have nothing to do with the difference in the ohm readings of the solenoids. Try the ohm reading again now that you have the unit off... possibly the difference was due to the wiring or some other reason. At any rate, if the solenoid worked before, I'd take a calculated guess that it will still work once you replace the d/s.

Let me know if your engine is a short or long shaft model and I'll see if I have a d/s left in stock which I'll be able to discount. If you don't know whioch model you have, measure the vertical center transom height which is going to be either about 15" or 20" and relay that figure to me.

Bruno, before replying, see additional note below.

Joe (30+ Years With OMC)"

" Bruno.... Before replying, h

" Bruno.... Before replying, hit your back button, go to the bottom of that page (the page that lists all the other topics/problems). THere will be a large button there that states "Create New Conversation". Use it to start your own message area and entitle it any thing you like such as "1972 50hp shift problem" or something of that nature (I'll pick up on it). As it now stands, weve been chatting back and forth on somebody elses area which makes it a little confusing.

Joe (30+ Years With OMC) "

I HAVE A EVINRUDE 65hp MOTOR

I HAVE A EVINRUDE 65hp MOTOR MODEL#652735 AND THE SERIAL#IS JO17549 I WAS WONDERING IF THERE IS ANY WAY YOU CAN TELL ME WHAT YEAR MOTOR THIS IS IT HAS THE ELECTRIC SHIFT ON IT AND IS THERE ANY WAY YOU CAN CHANGE THE LOWER UNIT TO MAKE IT MANUAL SHIFT

"Jay... In the future, it woul

"Jay... In the future, it would be better when entering a topic, to back up to the previous paged, then go to the extreme bottom of that page. You'll find a large button there that says something like "Start New Conversation". Clicking on that button will allow you to have your own topic, and have it listed at the top of the page. As you message now stands, it's pretty well buried back around Dec, 2001. I just happened to stumble across it.

Now, your engine is a 1972 65hp Evinrude, and sorry, there's no way to convert that lower unit to a manual shift unit

Joe"