Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Engine alignment Q

D

dhyams

Regular Contributor
"OK, so I obtained an engine a

"OK, so I obtained an engine alignment tool, and it tells me that the engine needs to be moved up (the grease tracks on top of the tool are deep, and hardly any tracks on the bottom).

So here is where I'm apparently dumb, and I wanted to make sure I understood how the engine mounts work. Is that I'm supposed to loosen that top nut (pictured below), and then what? Tighten the nut up underneath (where the orangish color is)?

I gave it all I had, but couldn't even loosen that top nut...and that's the one that has easy access.

145554.jpg
"
 
"Ayuh,.......

Loosen the To

"Ayuh,.......

Loosen the Top nut,+ then lift the motor with the Bottom nut.......

Both sides Equally of course....."
 
"Argh, I just tried again. No

"Argh, I just tried again. No go.

And even if I get that top nut free, I have to do the port side also. I can't even get a wrench in there, much less get any torque on it. Do you have to remove the manifold and alternator to even get in there???"
 
"Daniel...
That nut looks pre

"Daniel...
That nut looks pretty clean to me (no rust), but spray some WD on there and let 'er sit for awhile. Longer wrench means more torque. Get an impact gun down in there. Eat some wheaties or something, that thing's gotta give.

Wrench"
 
PB Blaster to eat the crud ove

PB Blaster to eat the crud over night and use a 1/2" breaker bar w/a deepwell 6 pt. socket. Apply heat to the NUT ONLY for a minute or so. .
 
"Try unloosening the lower nut

"Try unloosening the lower nut to relieve tension; but note carefully how much you back it off. Both lower nuts need to be adjusted up and down the same amount so as to not upset the port/stbd level.

The upper nuts are not usually that tight; there is no need to torque it down by any great amount. It just needs to be moderately tight.

Worst case you will have to get a nut breaker and bust it off. Its a fairly standard nut, 1/2" NF thread I think.
Rod"
 
"OK, I *finally* got t

"OK, I *finally* got these nuts off, port and starboard side.

A little guidance though on exactly how to align (I'm a newbie!)...

When I insert the engine alignment tool, there are grease tracks left on the top but not the bottom.

So, which direction do I need to turn the engine mount nuts?"
 
"CCW from the top; you want to

"CCW from the top; you want to raise the lower nuts upwards so as to raise the front of the motor.
This will have the effect of raising the coupler slightly , since it is mounted forward of the rear engine mount ears.
make sure you raise each front nut equally. Be careful; it's easy to lose track of which you adjusted by what amount.
Note that you hopefully want to get it so the alignment tool easily slips in and out with only moderate forefinger and thumb pressure. Check your grease marks after each adjustment.
I would start by raising the front nuts about one full turn.
The upper nuts are just a jam nut to secure the adjustment once you are done.

If you can't seem to get the coupler to stop dragging on the top of the tool, it may be that the fiber washers and double coil spring washers in your rear mounts are worn or collapsed, thus allowing the rear engine mounts to sit too low on the transom plate. Changing these is a PITA because you have to raise then entire engine off its mounts with a hoist. Hopefully you will not need to do this. Its a good idea to change the fiber washers and spring washers if you ever have to pull the engine for some other reason, such as to change the coupler.

Email me at [email protected] and I will send you a pdf file of Merc's 4.3 engine installation and alignment procedure.

Rod"
 
"Um, argh. I have been going

"Um, argh. I have been going clockwise (2.5 turns), and I thought that it was aligning better. Maybe it's so far off that the tool isn't going all the way in anymore, and I didn't notice it. Hmm."
 
Back
Top