"Tests the spark with the spar
"Tests the spark with the spark plugs removed, and use a spark tester whereas you can set a 7/16" gap..... the 7/16" gap is important. See "tester" at the end of this post.
The spark should jump that gap with a strong blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP! Does it?
Even with every component on the engine being in tip top like new condition, if the engine isn't cranking over at least 300 rpm, the stator will not be able to produce enough voltage (Approx 300v AC) to the powerpack capcitor to engage the ignition.
If you have a slow cranking engine, find out why and correct that problem.... loose cable, tight but dirty cable, low battery, failing starter, etc. A starting point would be to remove, clean, and tighten every cable associated with the starting/cranking system.
The black/yellow wire that leads to the powerpack(s) should not ever have any voltage applied to it. Test by disconnecting the black/yellow wire from the powerpack(s), then connect a volt meter (set to its lowest DC voltage setting) between the black/yellow wire(s) and a powerhead ground. With the engine NOT RUNNING, turn the key in the ON position. There should NOT be any voltage present. If even a microvolt exists in the reading, it usually means that the ignition switch has a slight short, in which case replace the switch.
Any voltage to that black/yellow wire will destroy the powerpack.
(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)
A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.
Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas the!y could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:
..........X1..........X2
.................X..(grd)
..........X3..........X4
When time permits, visit my store (copy/paste) at: stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"