Replace V R O and mix oil and gas

Can I purchase A conversion ki

Can I purchase A conversion kit or could I use an electric fuel pump? I tried a regular pump that was made to fasten to the motorhead. I had to run a hose from the motor to the fuel pump.I dont seem to be gettting enough pressure to operate the motor above half throttle. PLEASE HELP

"If you still have the regular

"If you still have the regular VRO pump, you can do the following. Hopefully others can answer your question about the electric pump.

(VRO Changeover Judgement Call)
(J. Reeves)

The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.

Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big problem which really brings their fears into view.

The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their own.

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(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off."

I had already bypassed the vro

I had already bypassed the vro then the fuel pump quit working. I dont want to buy new vro because of the price and I dont need the oil injection as I mix my own gas an oil

"They make a VRO looking &#39

"They make a VRO looking 'fuel pump only'.but,i install quite a few of the reg ol bolt on fuel pumps for V4's and they do very well.u usually have to remove the nipple that went to the VRO,for the vacuum operation to bolt pump to block,or mount it at another accessible location leaving vacuum hose"

I have a 1998 OMC 40 hp there

I have a 1998 OMC 40 hp there isnt a place to bolt the fuel pump on the motor so i drilled and tapped the fuel pump and ran a hose to the purgevalve on the motor then to fuel pump. The motor runs fine till about half trottle then acts like its not getting gas.if I pump the primer bulb it runs fine. Am I losing suction thu the hose as it is meant to bolt directly to the motor?

Where can I get that VRO looki

Where can I get that VRO looking fuel pump?

Are aboslutely sure that there

Are aboslutely sure that there is no place to bolt the regular fuel pump onto the motor.On the port side #1 cylinder???

"the vro fuel pump only,that i

"the vro fuel pump only,that i was referring to,shows to be for 3 cyl and larger,part # 438402--$$166.00..the purge valve u r referring to i think,is going to be the pulse limiter,which u would not use on a reg fuel pump..."

i AM NOT 100% SURE THERE IS NO

i AM NOT 100% SURE THERE IS NO PLACE TO BOLT THE PUMP TO THE MOTOR.TODAY IS GOING TO BE FAIRLY NICE SO IM GOING TO REMOVE THE STARTER LATER ON AND CHECK AGAIN. THE PULSELIMETER SCREWS INTO THE BLOCK. IF THERE IS a place to bolt on the pump how would I do that because of the threads in the block for the pulse limiter.thanks very much for your help as you have already been more help than than the so called mechanics in this area. One more question would the limiter affect the operation of the fuel pump? The motor runs perfect until half throttle then it surges up and down like it is not getting enough gas.

"By the way... Raymond called

"By the way... Raymond called me before he posted here. He just got a computer a week ago and this is his first experience using the Internet! I think he his doing pretty well!

Glad to see he is getting some help. Thank you all for helping him."

Raymond you need to look at th

Raymond you need to look at the motor block to see if it has a place for the old style ($50.00)pump.You find that on the block on the port side #1 cylinder.It would consist of 2 holes (10-24nc thread) about 1-3/4" apart with a plug in the middle for the pressure pulse to the pump.You would put a pipe plug into the hole used for the VRO.

Thereis a place to bolt the ol

Thereis a place to bolt the old type pump on the motor. It isnt the same place the pulse Limiter fastens to the motor. It is port side behind the starter. I put a used pump on and it didnt pump any gas so I guess its bad. Im going to buy a new one if Santa Claus leaves me enough money. Thanks a bunch and I will keep in touch with this site.You guys are the best and I hope I can help someone out in the future.

"I,m the one with the problem

"I,m the one with the problem of converting a 1998 40hp evinrude from vro to a regular fuel pump. I did find a place to fasten the old type pump on the motor.I was looking at the pulselimiter but it is in a diferent location. I purchased a new one from Sierra. Gas just dribbles from the pump and it will not run any faster than !/4 throttle. Could I have a compression problem(I havent checked i dont have a gaugh( or could I have bought a bad new pump? I would appeciate any help as I dont know what else to acept to pay someone $75 an hour which I cant afford."

"The pump is driven by crankca

"The pump is driven by crankcase pulses. So what is the CYLINDER compression on #1????. Cylinder compression ,if low may indicate that crankcase compression is bad.So what have you done to eliminate fuel supply problems from tank and hoses."

"II have tried 3 hose assembli

"II have tried 3 hose assemblies and 2 tanks so i dont think that is the problem. Illcheck the compresion tommorrow I would have already but I dont have a gauge. I hope it is a bad fuel pump but that would be to easy. thanks again I really do appeciate the help,"

Well I checked the compression

Well I checked the compression both cyls. have 130 lbs. I borrowed a tank and assy. from a neighbor same problem. A friend asked about a leaf valve in the intake could that be the problem? I always refered to them as reeds. If you know or suspect any thing else that would keep the pump from working I would appeciat the help.I put my finger over the hole where it gets the compression and pulse to operate the pump. It doesnt really seem like it has very much suction.

Pull the carburetor off and ch

Pull the carburetor off and check the reeds with a flashlight.

THanks Sparky Could the reeds

THanks Sparky Could the reeds keep the pump from working?

No reed / broken reed /debris

No reed / broken reed /debris holding one open means no crankcase compression and no working pump.#1 and #2 crankcases are COMPLETELY seperate and are you saying you have pump problems on both cylinder.

"The fuel dribbles from the pu

"The fuel dribbles from the pump with the motor running and the exit hose removed from the pump.it seems there is alot more discharge pressure than suction out of the crankcase when the fuel pump is removed.Sounds like a stuck reed what do ya think,"

Thanks a bunch. I have to go t

Thanks a bunch. I have to go to a hog roast Ill check back later. Its sounding like my reeds are bad. Thanks for your help. I wasnt thing of the reeds as a possibility.

"You state "....it seems t

"You state "....it seems there is alot more discharge pressure than suction out of the crankcase when the fuel pump is removed.Sounds like a stuck reed what do ya think,?"

If you're speaking of pressure/suction at the fitting that normally operates the fuel pump, and you have pressure at that point, the reeds are fine.

If a leaf valve (reed) was stuck open or broke, the pressure ocaused by the downward motion of the piston would simply blow out thru the carburetor throat.... and there would be impossible for pressure to be present at the fuel pump operation fitting."

It seems as though there were

It seems as though there were more pressure than suction at the port where the fuel pump mounts to the crankcase. I now have the reeds out and i cant see any visual damage to the reeds. Nune seem to be stuck or broken. I put slight pressure on each one and they semmed fine. They did seem like they were a little dirty. Ill take the plates off and get a better view. Could the reeds just be wore out? Its a 1998 motor but has been used alot.

I shoud add that as long as I

I shoud add that as long as I pump the primer on the hose to the tank and keep the carbs filled the motor runs fine.

You have a fuel pump problem /

You have a fuel pump problem / wrong pump /restricted hoses /problems with pick-up tube in the tank.

"I just installed a brand new

"I just installed a brand new fuel pump from sierra made for 25 to 60 HP, I have been wondering all along that I maybe have a bad pump, It cost $54. THere is a fitting that connects to the 2 carbs and to the primer solenoid. I havent checked that fitting for any blockage. I put new hoses on every where used 3 different hose assy, 3 tanks. I didnt put new hoses from that fitting to the carbs. I pumped the bulb tight and did not see any leaks anywhere."

Well you were right on the mon

Well you were right on the money. the only fitting I didnt check or replace the hoses on had a piece of rubber hose blocking the outlet to one of the carburators. Thank you and everyone who helped. From here on Im going to sign on as DUMBA--.Again THANK TOU very much. Have a good day as Im not going to bother any more today. Im going boat riding.

"Checking and trouble shooting

"Checking and trouble shooting is the way to repair motors, not guessing and throwing new parts at " that must be it or i think this is the problem""

"Thanks again. What really thr

"Thanks again. What really threw me off on the fuel pump was the fact that it was not putting out a full stream of gas. I even had friends look at it and they thought the same thing that the fuel pump wasnt working right. I guess they werent any smarter than me. I sure thank you Sparky and Jreeves and any one else that had any input on my problem, I sure learned alot and nest problem I have I will do more checking for the simple things first. I have ran abouy 10 Gal. of gas thru the 40 HP and it runs perfectly. This is off the subject but I recently installed a easy stick steering with a Hotfoot for the throttle. I really love this setup. It is so much easier to operate than a steering wheel and controls. again thanks I should have checked the fittings first. I did replace all the hoses and clamps but didnt check the fitting."