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Need Help with steering please

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polyian

New member
This is a great board...lots o

This is a great board...lots of good people and useful information. I am a new member / boat owner and I have a 2002 Capri Cuddy 3.0 Merc with an Alpha 1 Gen II with manual steering. I disconnected the cable from the drive and the steering wheel turns very easy. Moving the stern drive from side to side requires a solid shove in either direction. I don't see and lube points on the Gimbal bushings so I am looking for any ideas on loosening up the steering. Am I stuck with replacing the bushings? There is only a bit over 100 hours on the boat so I'd be surprised if they are worn out. And if I need to replace them what's involved.

Thanks for any help...Ian
 
"Thanks Guy...I'll give th

"Thanks Guy...I'll give the penetrating oil a shot today. I was thinking that might be the only remedy other than changing the bushing which looks like a big job...Ian
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"Ian:

MY PLEASURE TO HELP.

"Ian:

MY PLEASURE TO HELP. PB Blaster is a strong penetrating oil. Lubricate every moving connection of the steering system. If it works, follow it w/a dose of light oil on a regular basis. Use the light oil on all of your linkages including the carb. Failure to apply light oil per the manual can bind any part. Good luck."
 
"Guy...You are the man!!!

I

"Guy...You are the man!!!

I sprayed the steering arm and shaft at the top where the arm connects to the steering shaft in the Gimbal Ring. Then I worked the wheel back and forth as you suggested, waited an hour, did it all again and it's freeing up. I can now turn the wheel with two fingers. I'm not sure how loose manual steering should actually be so I'll spray and horse the wheel some more in the morning. Then I'll let it dry up a bit and pour some oil to it (and do all the other lube points)

I saw a lot of crud come of the top of the steering shaft and nut area so I figure it was corroded around the top of the shaft. The bearing down in the Gimbal Ring seems to be OK..Thank God...I got a quote of $1500 bucks to replace the bearing along with bellows, impeller and trim sender.

So I thank you again very much for your help.

Next Job...pull the lower unit off and replace the impeller and change the gear lube. Then I'm ready for the water."
 
That's great Ian. Inspect

That's great Ian. Inspect your bellows for dry rot and always store the OD in the down position.

Get some spray white lithium grease w/teflon w/a tube and direct it into the pivot areas. Also look under the dash at the rack and pinion for a zerk fitting and pump some grease into it.
 
"Re: storing the OD in the dow

"Re: storing the OD in the down position...is it OK if it is "mostly down" as opposed to "completely down"? The reason I ask is that my boat is wintering on its trailer, and on the trailer, I can't quite lower the OD all the way before the skeg hits the ground."
 
"That won't hurt it. Did

"That won't hurt it. Did you pull the prop and check for fishing line and lube the prop shaft? If you have 4 jack stands ($35) or concrete blocks, you will get the tires off the ground which can increase their life. Keep the tires covered from direct sunlight to reduce dry rot. Did you service the trailer bearings or grease them?"
 
"I have the same problem as th

"I have the same problem as the tongue of the trailer is somewhat elevated by the driveway sloping up. I am thinking of blocking up the trailer. This will give me the clearance to drop the drive fully and also get the trailer wheels off the ground for a couple of months...I don't expect to use the boat before February when the Sun comes back here in BC. Raising it a bit will also facilitate removing the lower unit to replace the impeller in the drive.

But in direct answer to your concern, it is my understanding that the desire to get the drive down is based on taking any bending stress off the bellows. If it's almost down then I would think you are stress free. And I always put a thin piece of wood under the skeg to make sure the drive is not touching the ground or concrete."
 
"Good points Ian and Guy, and

"Good points Ian and Guy, and thanks. I will take a look at blocking up the trailer; I can probably come up with concrete blocks somewhere.

And I haven't serviced the bearings yet, but it's on my list. I'm a newbie, so it takes me a long time to do normal service items that veterans can do in ten minutes.
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Good thing I pretty much have all winter to do them....

[edit: and yes, the prop is off to stay for the rest of the winter, and I'll lube the splines on the prop shaft when I put it back on in the spring]"
 
"Daniel...Don't use concre

"Daniel...Don't use concrete blocks!!!

They are dangerous to use for supporting vehicles as they can crack and break under stress...never get under a vehicle supported by a concrete block. Concrete blocks are designed to carry a load across the full edge surface, not in one spot like a trailer will load it.

Axles stands or solid wood blocks are best. Axle stands are easier to work with and store"
 
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